wiring will be in this spot but different..actually its all out again ..to make it look a bit "nicer" .. its not a Show car.. so I dont care too much about the Cables ...
This is how i mounted mine...in the spare tire well...0 gauge wire is for cranking only...8ga wire with fusible link for charging...
So you ran two different wires?
I figured with a rear battery you would run a 92-93 starter and just have one 0 gauge from battery to starter and run the alt to the starter.
IIRC its a taylor box...i custom mounted it in the spare wheel well so it sits level.
As far as the wiring yes i run two wires...i spoke with a number of people regarding a safe way to install the battery in the back. If you run a 0 ga wire alone its hot all the time and if it becomes damaged through time or in an accident has the potential to cause serious issues. We came up with running the 0 ga thats hot only while cranking and then running a smaller 8ga with a fusible link for charging.
I have my whole wiring diagram somewhere i just have to see if i can find it. I did this a couple years ago when i redid all the harnesses.
As far as the wiring yes i run two wires...i spoke with a number of people regarding a safe way to install the battery in the back. If you run a 0 ga wire alone its hot all the time and if it becomes damaged through time or in an accident has the potential to cause serious issues. We came up with running the 0 ga thats hot only while cranking and then running a smaller 8ga with a fusible link for charging.
I have my whole wiring diagram somewhere i just have to see if i can find it. I did this a couple years ago when i redid all the harnesses.
Got my PA Performance terminals in the mail today. @Mustang5L5 you are correct. These are much nicer in person, and well worth the money!!
Quick question for those following this thread. I’ve put the 4 post junction inside my fender and eleminated the fender mounted starter relay (solenoid). I was originally running my positive battery cable to the block, then was going to go from the junction block to the starter. Aside from what I’ve drawn, all other connections that were on the positive side of solenoid are now on junction block. Here’s what I was going to do.
As I looked at what I was doing I was thinking .... can I just go right to the starter with the 4guage, and then just run a 10 gauge to power the junction block? Rather than the 4 gauge into the inner fender, then back out.
Something like this and thanks for the help. I feel like it would be fine and maybe just over thinking it.
As I looked at what I was doing I was thinking .... can I just go right to the starter with the 4guage, and then just run a 10 gauge to power the junction block? Rather than the 4 gauge into the inner fender, then back out.
Something like this and thanks for the help. I feel like it would be fine and maybe just over thinking it.
I don't think 10G wire is big enough to handle the load of all the other electrical systems. The exterior lights alone draw over 20 amps. Now factor in HVAC, windows, defrost, or anything else potentially running through the 10G. wire. I'd keep the original plan personally
@Blown88GT what's the rating for 10g wire for DC?
@Blown88GT what's the rating for 10g wire for DC?
My other concern was all the current running through that block while the starter is cranking. It’s rated at 250amps, but I felt that part of the re-engineering was safer to go straight to the starter.
I guess I’ll wait to see what @Blown88GT says as well.
I like the way your battery is wired. Must have a starter relay in the back so the big wire only goes to the starter. That's the safest way to do it. For racing you have to run an alternator wire to the cut off switch in the rear also.....along with the alternator charge wire.
I like visuals, so just making sure we are on the same page. Same lug of the 4 post block like this, correct?
Are you keeping the battery in stock location? Whats the purpose of eliminating the starter relay? If u just want to do a wire tuck you can put the starter relay in the fender and tie everything to it like in the original configuration...thats how i originally did it when i first did my wire tuck
Yes i have the relay in the back...0 ga to starter (hot only when cranking) 8ga with fusible link to distribution block in drivers fender to feed up front power...
Battery wiring was designed for the safest street application as i dont plan to race or install a cutoff switch.