Cleaning cylinders of old gas

90FoxLX · Jan 1, 2024

What’s the best way to clean cylinders of old gas without taking the head apart? I dropped my tank and replaced everything last year and it was pretty nasty inside. The car was started a few years ago on probably 4-5 year old gas but not driven. After seeing the gas tank I feel like the gas lines should be replaced. I will clean the fuel rail and injectors, but how do I got about cleaning the cylinders? It’s a “freshly” rebuilt motor that was sitting for about 6 years and after seeing the tank I don’t think it’s ever gotten good gas until I swapped the tanks. It has only ever been driven probably 20 miles and started a handful of times on old gas. It’s never felt fully capable of what it should with as much is done to it.

Monkeybutt2000 · Jan 1, 2024

Not really sure what you mean? Gas in the cylinders?

90FoxLX · Jan 1, 2024

I bought the car off my buddy about 7 years ago after he built the motor. I ended up having the motor remounted and put a t56 in it along with a few other things but before I had it the tank that I pulled out of it last year was NASTY! He obviously didn’t take care of all the other things I’m working on. New gas lines, brake lines, PS rack, K Member soon. I’m worried that old nasty gas could have caused varnish to form in my cylinders, or is that not something to worry about?

Also how difficult is it to swap K Members on jack stands instead of a lift? I understand the concept of squaring it off and I feel like I can do it myself.

90FoxLX · Jan 1, 2024

I should say how difficult is engine in K Member swap on stands?

AeroCoupe · Jan 1, 2024

So once you have swapped out the fuel system just start it up. There isn’t going to be any residual fuel in the cylinders and if there is any varnish it will quickly go away.

I swapped the k-member in the Coupe on jack stands and it came out fine. Just followed the Maximum Motorsports instructions and all good.

90FoxLX · Jan 1, 2024

AeroCoupe said:
So once you have swapped out the fuel system just start it up. There isn’t going to be any residual fuel in the cylinders and if there is any varnish it will quickly go away.

I swapped the k-member in the Coupe on jack stands and it came out fine. Just followed the Maximum Motorsports instructions and all good.

Glad to hear the cylinders should be good. It already has a lot of work done to it.

When you swapped K members did you use a cherry picker or engine support bar?

Noobz347 · Jan 1, 2024

Is there any rust in the cylinders?

90FoxLX · Jan 1, 2024

Not that I know of. I hope not. But it also sat in a garage for about 5 years with open short tube headers. Not ideal as far as moisture possibly getting in there. It has a full Bassani exhaust now. It’s got a lot done to it but also needs a lot done to it.

limp · Jan 2, 2024

If your worried about your cylinders and you are really anal, you could remove the spark plugs, spray some WD 40 in each cylinder, crank the engine over a few times ( remove coil wire first), then reinstall the plugs and fire it.......

AeroCoupe · Jan 2, 2024

I used a heavy wall piece of pipe (want to say 1-1/2") cut to length so it fit between the fenders and rested on top of the inner fenders. Used two ratchet straps to hook onto the front motor and onto the bar to hold the motor up. Didn't think strapping under the motor from one side of the pipe to the other was smart as it could cut the strap. This was done with the transmission still in the car so the back of the motor was supported by the trans mount. Now was this the best way and the safest way? Probably not but I made a decision to stay out from under the motor and work on the sides. I had the stock k-member out and the MM k-member in the car and loosely bolted in in about 2-3 hours. It was a long day but I went from putting it up on jack stands to the k-member fully installed and the motor being supported on it. Finished up the front suspension the next day as I swapped to coil overs at the same time.

90FoxLX · Jan 2, 2024

AeroCoupe said:
I used a heavy wall piece of pipe (want to say 1-1/2") cut to length so it fit between the fenders and rested on top of the inner fenders. Used two ratchet straps to hook onto the front motor and onto the bar to hold the motor up. Didn't think strapping under the motor from one side of the pipe to the other was smart as it could cut the strap. This was done with the transmission still in the car so the back of the motor was supported by the trans mount. Now was this the best way and the safest way? Probably not but I made a decision to stay out from under the motor and work on the sides. I had the stock k-member out and the MM k-member in the car and loosely bolted in in about 2-3 hours. It was a long day but I went from putting it up on jack stands to the k-member fully installed and the motor being supported on it. Finished up the front suspension the next day as I swapped to coil overs at the same time.

That’s a pretty quick install time. I definitely don’t want to have to pull the motor but I thought starting with the k member and moving back would probably be my best option since it need a k swap anyways. I don’t think I fully trust those support bars in that situation. I was thinking a 4*4 with some ratchet straps. I’ll probably order the k member tomorrow.

AeroCoupe · Jan 2, 2024

Realize I’m giving you the time it took to swap k-members not the time it took me to remove the entire front suspension and make measurements.

I would suggest you get a couple plumb bobs and clean the concrete below the car when you drop them to take measurements. I cleaned the concrete and put blue painters tape down and made my marks on the tape.

90FoxLX · Jan 2, 2024

I have plumb bobs and everything I need but I’m pretty much solo on this entire project. I’ll have to have some help getting the old k member out and taking measurements.

LILCBRA · Jan 2, 2024

TheFoxAndTheTremec said:
That’s a pretty quick install time. I definitely don’t want to have to pull the motor but I thought starting with the k member and moving back would probably be my best option since it need a k swap anyways. I don’t think I fully trust those support bars in that situation. I was thinking a 4*4 with some ratchet straps. I’ll probably order the k member tomorrow.

You'll either have to support the engine from above with chains and lift the new K member into place or remove the engine. I think it's easier to remove the engine, put it on a stand, then run a bar or piece of pipe through the K member and lift it into position with an engine hoist. Not sure how you'd be able to manage otherwise.

Here's a quick pic I took while replacing it after frame rail repair in my old car. I didn't remove any suspension, just jacked the car up, lowered the K member down and drug it out from under on a heavy piece of cardboard, then slid it back underneath and lifted into place with the engine hoist.

90FoxLX · Jan 2, 2024

LILCBRA said:
You'll either have to support the engine from above with chains and lift the new K member into place or remove the engine. I think it's easier to remove the engine, put it on a stand, then run a bar or piece of pipe through the K member and lift it into position with an engine hoist. Not sure how you'd be able to manage otherwise.

Here's a quick pic I took while replacing it after frame rail repair in my old car. I didn't remove any suspension, just jacked the car up, lowered the K member down and drug it out from under on a heavy piece of cardboard, then slid it back underneath and lifted into place with the engine hoist.

I’ve seen videos of people do k members swaps with only the bar and I think it would be better to pull the engine too but I don’t really have the room in my garage to pull that off.

90FoxLX · Jan 2, 2024

limp said:
If your worried about your cylinders and you are really anal, you could remove the spark plugs, spray some WD 40 in each cylinder, crank the engine over a few times ( remove coil wire first), then reinstall the plugs and fire it.......

Is that really a good idea? I’ve never heard of that. But after seeing that old tank fueling a rebuilt engine it had me a little concerned. Especially since it has also sat for so long.

85GTStangGuy · Jan 2, 2024

TheFoxAndTheTremec said:
Is that really a good idea? I’ve never heard of that. But after seeing that old tank fueling a rebuilt engine it had me a little concerned. Especially since it has also sat for so long.

Yea, it's a real good idea for an engine that's been sitting a very long time.

You could also use engine oil or something like Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders to lubricate them. Also, maybe turn the engine over by hand (via the crank pulley bolt), vs forcefully having the starter turn it over. I'd also recommend getting and using an oil priming tool.

90FoxLX · Jan 2, 2024

That’s sweet. I have plenty of WD40. I’ll look into Marvel Mystery Oil. I would definitely crank it over by hand. I don’t dare start it on stands.

Noobz347 · Jan 2, 2024

85GTStangGuy said:
You could also use engine oil or something like Marvel Mystery oil

What's in it?

Nobody knows... It's a mystery.

85GTStangGuy · Jan 2, 2024

Noobz347 said:
What's in it?

Nobody knows... It's a mystery.

Don't need to know.... if it's good enough for Iron Man and Captain America, it's good enough for me!

Cleaning cylinders of old gas

90FoxLX

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Monkeybutt2000

Mustang Master

90FoxLX

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90FoxLX

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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

90FoxLX

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Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

90FoxLX

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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

90FoxLX

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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

90FoxLX

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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

90FoxLX

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90FoxLX

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85GTStangGuy

90FoxLX

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Noobz347

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85GTStangGuy

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Cleaning cylinders of old gas

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