Clutch adjustment explanations?

NOthing in the FWA adjustment is for pedal height (MM sells parts for that. It's a separate idea).

I like to set the cable at zero lash. That is, I tighten the adjustment till there is no slack in the cable. This keeps the TOB taut against the fingers but doesnt cause preloading wear.

You can probably dial out some slack in your adjustment. The point of engagement is generally closer to the middle of the pedal travel.

THe FWA and adjustable cables both adjust the slack in the cable. Turning a FWA CCW does remove slack (moves the TOB closer to the fingers).

Those adjusters are marketed incorrectly. They adjust the slack in the cable and that has some effect on the engagement point, but you have to be VERY careful in how you play with them. For example:

If you have too much cable pre-load, the clutch will never fully engage. Essentially the cable holds a constant load on the fork which will prevent the pressure plate from clamping down. Not good = smoked clutch, flywheel and throwout bearing.

If you have too much slack in the cable, the clutch will not completely release. This will ultimately destroy your trans or in sever cases, prevent the car from starting.

The stock nylon quadrant takes care of these adjustments automatically with the ratcheting pawl gear. But when you put in the solid quadrant, you have to do this manually and check on it every so often as your clutch disk wears.

The general rule I've found that works well is to set the FWA so that there is a small amount of slack in the cable; if you pull the cable away from the FWA by hand, there should be about a 1/16" gap from the cable sheath end to the FWA. You can also check this from under the car buy pulling on the cable button where it engages the fork. Again, there can be a very small amount of slack here so that the cable isn't loading the fork. Anything more than about a 1/32" to 1/8” of slack is probably too much.

You can also test your setting with jack-stands, but BE CAREFUL!!! THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS if not don correctly!!!!! Put the car up on jack-stands so that it's level. Start the car and hold the clutch down. If the rear wheels are spinning at all with the clutch pressed, the cable has too much slack and the clutch is not disengaging all of the way.

I've installed these adjusters on multiple Mustangs and I highly recommend the following parts combo: 1) UPR FWA (jam nut or click style) 2) Maximum Motorosports quadrant, and 3) Stock cable.

Good luck!

Once you're close, then I would use the FWA to play with the slack. Also, I like to put a little black mark on the FWA at 12 o'clock once I have it adjusted. That way when the feel changes, I can look and see that the FWA turned CW on me (and that's why the pedal feel changed). The reference point is helpful.

This topic has been hotter than 5 lug swap questions in the 5.0L Talk forum.

I've said if before and I'll say it again:

Go with all stock parts. Cable/quad/no firewall adjuster. Get a good clutch too like a FMS. I am done with aftermarket clutches like CF Spec etc....I had a CFDF pressure plate fail early, and that IMO is pathetic. 385 for a clutch and PP, it did not come with a T/O bearing and it PP fails in 14K??? The disc was still like new, but the PP let me down.