Drivetrain Clutch Cable Help, Please!!!!!!

[flashback87]

hey guys,

i am wrapping up a explorer motor swap. motor is in, running and has good oil pressure, but i try to get it on the road and my clutch cable pops off of the quantrant.

the quadrant and cable are are still the ones when i bought the car. i do not have a firewall adjuster and the off-white grommet thing does not sit in the hole in the fire wall (it just kind of hangs out). i am pretty sure the quadrant is after market because it is blue in color, metal and has 3 hooks for the cable to be in. the cabe is in the last hook.

i have a little play in the pedal at the top and when i try and shift it just grinds. if i keep pushing the pedal the cable ends up coming off the pedal.

the clutch disengaged fine before i took it out to pull my motor and tranny. i have the brace hooked up against the driver side wall and the calbe routes to the left of the driver mount along the oil pan into the fork.

it is a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and flywheel.

i have researched and it seems i need to tighten my cable but i am still a little confused how to do that. i have lifted my pedal up with my hand and that tightened it alittle but it still fell off.

sorry for the lengthy post but i wanted t omake sure i covered everything.

Thanks,

 

[jrichker]

If the cable is not adjustable, you will need a firewalll adjuster.

The three hook quadrant is probably a UPR part.

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.
See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

 

[flashback87]

thanks, why do you think my cable was tight before i removed it and now it is too loose?

also, my cable is threaded on the end that goes in the fork and it is attached with a locking nut. attached it a picture of when it was installed before i removed it this winter. i am pretty sure i have it installed the same but now the cable has slack.

 

[flashback87]

here are some more pics of the routing and how the grommet falls out of the firewall. maybe you can see something i am missing.

thanks for the help!

 

[jrichker]

You have an aftermarket quadrant, probably a UPR.

Put the quadrant end of the cable on the first hook of the quadrant. Then use the adjustment to set the cable to the engagement point that as described in my first post. Make sure that both nuts are on the back side of the clutch fork. The domed nut is the bearing surface for the fork, and the other nut is the lock nut. If you don't put the nuts on in this fashion, the cable will bind because it can't shift its angular position as the fork moves.

The second hook is for a stock cable and a firewall adjuster. The third hook is just for show and to get around the patent on a 2 hook quadrant.

 

[flashback87]

For doing the adjustment you are referring to, do I nee the fire wall adjuster?

Also, I have had my cable on the first hook, the one closest to the driver seat, farthest away from the firewall.

I am a little consused about your statement about the 2 nuts on the fork side of the cable. Is the way I have it in my pictites correct, or do I need to pull the longer nut through the fork too?

Thank you for helping!

 

[Sharad]

thanks, why do you think my cable was tight before i removed it and now it is too loose?

also, my cable is threaded on the end that goes in the fork and it is attached with a locking nut. attached it a picture of when it was installed before i removed it this winter. i am pretty sure i have it installed the same but now the cable has slack.

The cable nuts in this pic are installed incorrectly. The longer rounded nut seats into the clutch fork on the side opposite from the engine, closer to the end of the cable itself. Then the thinner flat nut is simply used to lock the longer rounded nut into place so it doesn't lose its adjustment.

When you make this correction, the clutch cable will effectively be about half an inch shorter, which should correct your problem.

 

[jrichker]

The cable nuts in this pic are installed incorrectly. The longer rounded nut seats into the clutch fork on the side opposite from the engine, closer to the end of the cable itself. Then the thinner flat nut is simply used to lock the longer rounded nut into place so it doesn't lose its adjustment.

When you make this correction, the clutch cable will effectively be about half an inch shorter, which should correct your problem.

Excellent advice.

I keep forgetting that sometimes people don't pick up on explanations, and need a little help or repetition to clearly understand how things work. Another voice can be just what is needed to make it all come together.

 

[flashback87]

Thanks! im gonna try this tomorrow. Really apreciate the repetition, helped me understand.

 

[Sharad]

No problem. Jrichker was right. I was just trying to help clarify.

 

[flashback87]

It worked!