clutch cable setup??

CustomFastback

Founding Member
Jun 6, 2002
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Why are the clutch cable setups so expensive for old mustangs? I see the steeda setups for $45 on the Fox Bodys and then $259 for our 65-73 cars. What is the technical difference between these kits? Can I make the Steeda or similar version work? thanks
 
I don't think it would be possible to make the fox body set up work. I have a setup from mustangsteve.com. It is a pretty simple setup to install. Check out his web page. I thought it seemed alot better engineered than the others. I can't say how it works as I haven't made my auto to t-5 swap yet. But I have seen posts about others liking it. There are some pics as well as other useful info on his site. Good luck with your serch.
 
You need a special clutch cable with early Mustangs. The reason is the early Mustangs clutch pedal PUSHES the cable, because they used to have a rod.
The Fox and late model Mustangs pedal PULLS the cable from the top half of the pedal. So, you need a special cable to work with a pedal that pushes it.
 
Speed_Demon1965 said:
You need a special clutch cable with early Mustangs. The reason is the early Mustangs clutch pedal PUSHES the cable, because they used to have a rod.
The Fox and late model Mustangs pedal PULLS the cable from the top half of the pedal. So, you need a special cable to work with a pedal that pushes it.

Not necessarily. MustangSteve's pedal is set up to pull from the top just like the late models. There is a quadrant welded to the top of the original clutch pedal in your car(or you can buy one from him) that the cable rides on when the pedal is pressed. Simple and wonderful design. No rods or springs or pushing cables.

swap6.jpg


See the quadrant at the top of the pedal? The cable rides in the groove just like any other car. And you can mail your pedal to him and he will weld it on for you, or you can order the entire kit already done, or mix up the process. Just email him, great guy to do business with. Any other mustang I drive will have this clutch cable setup.
 
What kinda gearbox are you wanting to use? That has some to do with it as well, as a Toploaders clutch fork goes the opposite direction as the late model trannies.

FWIW, I think I'm going to run a hydraulic setup on my Toploader in my Cougar, I'm waiting for information from CJ Pony Parts about the kits they sell; I prefer a hydraulic action over a cable.
 
thanks for the replys guys. I plan on using the new Tremec TKO 600 5 speed tranny. I will try the Mustang Steve option, it looks like a pretty good setup to me. Either that or try to fabricate some pieces from the pictures. I don't like that he uses a plastic knob for the cable adjuster, I may try and retrofit a steeda unit with his basic modification parts.
 
I didn't bother...

CustomFastback said:
Why are the clutch cable setups so expensive for old mustangs? I see the steeda setups for $45 on the Fox Bodys and then $259 for our 65-73 cars. What is the technical difference between these kits? Can I make the Steeda or similar version work? thanks

I took a different approach -- using the Z-bar instead. The Z-bar set up works quite well. If you buy a new Z-bar, though, it is probably imported and not of good quality so it would need to be fortified. I did an automatic to manual conversion and it is fine. And it is a lot cheaper than the cable or hydraulic setups. I grease it up with lithium grease and it is quite smooth.
 
If you have a Z-bar you can still use it on a T-5. I know some hardhead with no imagination is not going to get it but here it goes. Remove the rod between the pedal and the Z-bar. Then, remove the pin that goes fron the Z br to the fork. Now, install your T-5 with cable pull type fork. You will still need something welded to the top of the clutch pedal, a quadrant or just a length of straight steel, anything to connect a cable to. Run a length of cable from the top of the Z-bar to the top of the clutch pedal extension. Also, run an length of cable from the botom of the z-bar to the clutch fork. Vyola-cable Z-bar. For those of you who need an explanation, when the pedat is pressed, the top extension moves toward the driver, pulling the top of the Z-bar toward the driver, pulling the botom of the z-bar towards the front of the car, pulling the fork forward actuating the clutch. It's just using the z-bar turning the oposite direction. SIMPLE. I alreadt did the Mustang Steve cable conversion but next time I'll do it this way. It was Opentracker's idea. I doubt he'll ever put a T-5 in a car he ever drives.
 
Interesting idea - it simply moves the cable connection point to the opposite side of the firewall. That could be a good option for those who want a new transmission with cable clutch linkage, but are concerned about boring large holes in the firewall.

IIRC, someone was selling a parts kit that did much the same thing - I recall seeing a modified bellcrank linkage and associated bracketry in some magazine article or advertisement. That was a few years ago, though. Hmm...
 
I got the kit from modern driveline. It looks a lot better than the mustang steve set up. I was going to go with the weld on quadrant design, but I became concerned about the cable wanting to ride out of the groove if the hole in the firewall wasnt pefectly inline.
 
stangman67 said:
I got the kit from modern driveline. It looks a lot better than the mustang steve set up. I was going to go with the weld on quadrant design, but I became concerned about the cable wanting to ride out of the groove if the hole in the firewall wasnt pefectly inline.

I haven't seen what their kit looks like yet. Got any pics?
 
fast64stang said:
if i have a complete 5.0/t-5 donor car, could i just take the quadrant from the late model car and attach it to my early model pedal assembly?

My setup is using a modified Fox body quadrant but it is an aluminum aftermarket one not the plastic kind. If you get a used aluminum one like I did out of a free parts car then you will be all set.....look at my pics to get a better idea of a possible solution using a late model aftermarket quadrant.