Clutch cable

Mustang4119 · Sep 13, 2006

If I jack up my car and take dust shield off for bellhousing and tightning that clutch cable, can I make it more snug if it has slack underneath the car?? The thing is that it rattles and hits against the metal. I have tried the steeda clutch pedal adjuster, but I cant set it perfect. I have the firewall adjuster too, but when i adjust that to not rattle, its too high for grabbing and then its wayy to low when it grabs when i push pedal in with the pedal adjuster. I set it really good without the adjuster and the pedal rattles because there is slack. How do I snug the cable?? I think i looked at the quandrant and its on the 1st hook for steeda. I tried to just pull it to the other one, but it wont move. Its like really on there, i dont know if that makes a difference. I just dont want this dam pedal to rattle when foot is off it or at idle.

Mike97gt · Sep 14, 2006

It's sounds to me that you want the engagement point ot be low on the pedal but to have a tight cable.

remember the engagement point is suppoed to be atleast 2 inches from the floor at idle. If it's lower than that you can run into issues with high rpm shifting.

tightening the cable either at the cable end or at the firewall adjuster does the same thing. the tighter you have it the higher the engagement point is goign to be. The reason the engagement point lowers when you loosen it is because you have too much slack and the pedal has to travel a bit before it even starts to pull the clutch fork.

I like my enginement point high so I never looked into this but ther eis a few comapnies out there that sell a pedal adjuster. this is different than a firewall adjuster.

Mustang4119 · Sep 14, 2006

svttech76 said:
It's sounds to me that you want the engagement point ot be low on the pedal but to have a tight cable.

remember the engagement point is suppoed to be atleast 2 inches from the floor at idle. If it's lower than that you can run into issues with high rpm shifting.

tightening the cable either at the cable end or at the firewall adjuster does the same thing. the tighter you have it the higher the engagement point is goign to be. The reason the engagement point lowers when you loosen it is because you have too much slack and the pedal has to travel a bit before it even starts to pull the clutch fork.

I like my enginement point high so I never looked into this but ther eis a few comapnies out there that sell a pedal adjuster. this is different than a firewall adjuster.

lol have that already in, having problems where i want it, still not working out. couldnt i hook the handle to the 2nd hook on the quandrant for tighter slack?

twogts4us · Sep 14, 2006

I've found success in: First - adjust the cable at the transmission - this is your major adjustment. Second - adjust at the firewall...minor adjusting. We also have the Maximum Motorsports clutch pedal adjuster which helps...it's a combo of settings that will get you what you want, you just have to be willing to mess with it and understand what the cause and effect aspects are. Best of Luck!

Mustang4119 · Sep 14, 2006

twogts4us said:
I've found success in: First - adjust the cable at the transmission - this is your major adjustment. Second - adjust at the firewall...minor adjusting. We also have the Maximum Motorsports clutch pedal adjuster which helps...it's a combo of settings that will get you what you want, you just have to be willing to mess with it and understand what the cause and effect aspects are. Best of Luck!

So if I set it where I want, I can snug the cable from underneath where tranny is in bellhousing? what about putting it on the 2nd hook on the quandrant?

blackfang · Sep 15, 2006

I refuse to even run another adj cable. Stock one all the way with a firewall adjuster

Mustang4119 · Sep 15, 2006

blackfang said:
I refuse to even run another adj cable. Stock one all the way with a firewall adjuster

why whats with the stock cable?? I still have it laying around, dont know if i can reuse it. I thought those are self adjusting.

blackfang · Sep 15, 2006

Many people, as I have seen several threads on numerous Mustang sites, that have either broken or stretched their adj cables and the stockers are known to be stronger.

I stretched my bbk adj cable 6" halfway down the strip.

RochesterGT · Sep 15, 2006

blackfang said:
Many people, as I have seen several threads on numerous Mustang sites, that have either broken or stretched their adj cables and the stockers are known to be stronger.

I stretched my bbk adj cable 6" halfway down the strip.

I've seen the exact opposite.

I have the full steeda adjustment set, the adjustable cable, double hook quadrant, and the firewall adjuster. Works awesome, I just need to adjust mine since I got a new clutch in last weekend.

Mustang4119 · Sep 15, 2006

RochesterGT said:
I've seen the exact opposite.

I have the full steeda adjustment set, the adjustable cable, double hook quadrant, and the firewall adjuster. Works awesome, I just need to adjust mine since I got a new clutch in last weekend.

which hook is it on the quandrant?

RochesterGT · Sep 15, 2006

Mustang4119 said:
which hook is it on the quandrant?

Per the instructions, it's on the hook closest to the firewall. THe instructions said to put it on the hook farthest from the firewall if you're not using an adjustable cable.

Mustang4119 · Sep 15, 2006

RochesterGT said:
Per the instructions, it's on the hook closest to the firewall. THe instructions said to put it on the hook farthest from the firewall if you're not using an adjustable cable.

greatttt so mine is on the closest to firewall and im using the steeda cable also. See when i adjust the firewall adjuster to not rattle anymore underneath, it grabs too high. I want it in the middle with no rattling or vibrating in the pedal.

RochesterGT · Sep 15, 2006

You have the adjustable cable? I adjusted mine at the clutch fork until my pedal was low enough where my leg wasn't sticking in the air (I'm tall) but not too low where it wouldn't engage. I then used the firewall adjuster to take out the slack, but not too much to where the TOB was constantly being ridden, i left a little play at the top of the clutch pedal so I know it's not always riding on the TOB. It takes some work and it's kind of a pain because you have to keep taking out the clutch cable from the clutch fork to adjust the lock nut but the clutch is a lot nicer as far as position once it's set.

Mustang4119 · Sep 16, 2006

RochesterGT said:
You have the adjustable cable? I adjusted mine at the clutch fork until my pedal was low enough where my leg wasn't sticking in the air (I'm tall) but not too low where it wouldn't engage. I then used the firewall adjuster to take out the slack, but not too much to where the TOB was constantly being ridden, i left a little play at the top of the clutch pedal so I know it's not always riding on the TOB. It takes some work and it's kind of a pain because you have to keep taking out the clutch cable from the clutch fork to adjust the lock nut but the clutch is a lot nicer as far as position once it's set.

How do you adjust from clutch fork?? Yeah I dont want to be riding the TOB, my car feels so slow when its like somewhat engaged always. If I take out the slack in firewall adjuster for it to not vibrate or make banging noise, it grabs too high.

blackfang · Sep 16, 2006

RochesterGT said:
I've seen the exact opposite.

I have the full steeda adjustment set, the adjustable cable, double hook quadrant, and the firewall adjuster. Works awesome, I just need to adjust mine since I got a new clutch in last weekend.

You may have. I have seen several threads including from this site of where adj cables failed.

twogts4us · Sep 17, 2006

RochesterGT said:
I've seen the exact opposite.

I have the full steeda adjustment set, the adjustable cable, double hook quadrant, and the firewall adjuster. Works awesome, I just need to adjust mine since I got a new clutch in last weekend.

Same here bro - same setup on the wife's 01 and zero problems. I honestly didn't see much difference in the (albeit apparent, visual) quality of the Steeda vs. the OEM cable.

twogts4us · Sep 17, 2006

Mustang4119 said:
How do you adjust from clutch fork?? Yeah I dont want to be riding the TOB, my car feels so slow when its like somewhat engaged always. If I take out the slack in firewall adjuster for it to not vibrate or make banging noise, it grabs too high.

Lengthen or shorten the cable at the clutch fork by unlocking (separating) the jam nuts from each other, then set the one nut where you want...loosen it for additional cable length or tighten to make the cable shorter. Then, when you have it where you want, tighten the two (jam) nuts togther to secure.

Mustang4119 · Sep 17, 2006

twogts4us said:
Lengthen or shorten the cable at the clutch fork by unlocking (separating) the jam nuts from each other, then set the one nut where you want...loosen it for additional cable length or tighten to make the cable shorter. Then, when you have it where you want, tighten the two (jam) nuts togther to secure.

what is a clutch fork? So I go under the dash to look. So maybe this will fix my problem if I can snug the cable. So when I set it to where I want the cable vibrates/hits the metal underneath. So how would I snug it toward the firewall. I dont understand what im doing.

twogts4us · Sep 17, 2006

Mustang4119 said:
what is a clutch fork? So I go under the dash to look. So maybe this will fix my problem if I can snug the cable. So when I set it to where I want the cable vibrates/hits the metal underneath. So how would I snug it toward the firewall. I dont understand what im doing.

The clutch fork is the 'arm' that your cable attaches to at the transmission - the fork actually disengages and engages the clutch (as you pull/release the clutch cable, pedal). Take most of the slack out of it at the clutch fork by loosening the two nuts, then tightening the forward most nut and finally tightening the other (jam) nut against the other nut to lock them against each other. You'll appreciate (need) some sort of pry bar (anything will do, just be somewhat careful and use some common sense) to move the clutch fork. Use the pry bar to take tension off the cable, then remove the cable and release the fork from the pry bar. Then adjust the cable - this will likely be trial and error, trying to get it set where you want with little slack but not where it's got constant tension on the cable. Once you get it close, you can fine tune it at the firewall adjuster.

Mustang4119 · Sep 17, 2006

twogts4us said:
The clutch fork is the 'arm' that your cable attaches to at the transmission - the fork actually disengages and engages the clutch (as you pull/release the clutch cable, pedal). Take most of the slack out of it at the clutch fork by loosening the two nuts, then tightening the forward most nut and finally tightening the other (jam) nut against the other nut to lock them against each other. You'll appreciate (need) some sort of pry bar (anything will do, just be somewhat careful and use some common sense) to move the clutch fork. Use the pry bar to take tension off the cable, then remove the cable and release the fork from the pry bar. Then adjust the cable - this will likely be trial and error, trying to get it set where you want with little slack but not where it's got constant tension on the cable. Once you get it close, you can fine tune it at the firewall adjuster.

so im guessing this is underneath the car where i need jack stands or something?

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