Clutch Cable
- Thread starter nugget68
- Start date
do you think a kit like this would work? maybe i could weld some studs to the clutch cable, then bolt the quadrant to it...and looks like i would just have to drill a hole in the fire wall the same size as the adjuster and figur out some way to mount it, maybe with a bolt on the tabs it has...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-8...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a03c67c45
I've seen some people modify stock mustang quadrants...b ut i've also heard them complain too that it wasn't quite right. Search vintage mustangs site...I've seen some custom stuff there.
as for the fwa, I've seen people bolt it to an aluminum plate, which they then simply bolted to the fwa after they cut it to the right shape.
that cable is the fox length cable. It'll work fine with factory manifolds, but if you have headers, it's going to rub at #5 tube up front, that's why I suggested the longer 96+ adjustable cable or oem cable (the adj cable is a little longer for the mustang steve quadrant)
the quadrant can be done, and fabbed up, but don't cheap out if your fabrication skills aren't 100% and wind up with some hokey ****. I went with the mustangsteve quadrant, his fwa, and even his roller bearing assembly and the 96+ cable. In the end, I have less than $300 into it, but that includes the welding work and roller bearing pedal assembly....
the quadrant from mustang steve
and his roller bearing setup
I wanted to do this cheaply but do it right and never have to look back, and I have a real solid setup now
as for the fwa, I've seen people bolt it to an aluminum plate, which they then simply bolted to the fwa after they cut it to the right shape.
that cable is the fox length cable. It'll work fine with factory manifolds, but if you have headers, it's going to rub at #5 tube up front, that's why I suggested the longer 96+ adjustable cable or oem cable (the adj cable is a little longer for the mustang steve quadrant)
the quadrant can be done, and fabbed up, but don't cheap out if your fabrication skills aren't 100% and wind up with some hokey ****. I went with the mustangsteve quadrant, his fwa, and even his roller bearing assembly and the 96+ cable. In the end, I have less than $300 into it, but that includes the welding work and roller bearing pedal assembly....
the quadrant from mustang steve
and his roller bearing setup
I wanted to do this cheaply but do it right and never have to look back, and I have a real solid setup now
your set up looks really good...I think that I can buy that kit I posted and save a lot of money...i have to buy a pedal assembly too, so i will be out $180 there. i found a trans with bell and everything but clutch fork for $500, need to either rebalance or but a new flywheel (not sure what that will cost), it even comes with a hurst shifter. I really would like to keep cost down as much as possible. My dad used to fabricate and weld mine cars for coal mines so that fabbing of parts shouldnt be a problem...
if it's a stock mustang flywheel, just resurface it, you'll be fine.
for under 400 hp, run a king cobra clutch...price has gone up, so if you can't find it under $200, run a ram clutch..and ditch that heavy spring.
You shouldn't have a problem fabbing up that quadrant, just be sure it's got as straight as possible a path on the cable through the firewall...no sharp bends or kinks. You may have to beat the cowl in a little, but that's not a big deal.
they sell clutch pedals new by themselves that will just slide into your existing brake pedal assembly, for about $100ish
for under 400 hp, run a king cobra clutch...price has gone up, so if you can't find it under $200, run a ram clutch..and ditch that heavy spring.
You shouldn't have a problem fabbing up that quadrant, just be sure it's got as straight as possible a path on the cable through the firewall...no sharp bends or kinks. You may have to beat the cowl in a little, but that's not a big deal.
they sell clutch pedals new by themselves that will just slide into your existing brake pedal assembly, for about $100ish
tcrote5516
New Member
- Jan 7, 2010
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I tried the $180 kit on my T5 and it SUCKED! You loose the leverage provided by the z-bar. It wouldn't budge my Stage 2 Centerforce. I went back to the zbar setup. Sometimes the simple things work the best.
nah, something's not right with your prior setup...my king cobra clutch is so effortless, literally I can depress the clutch with 2 fingers...
but I've been doing mustang cable clutch setups for almost 15 years now, so I know how to set it up right
clutch cable routing is the #1 reason for a heavy clutch...any sharp bends, including pulling it away from the headers will increase effort dramatically. the cable needs a long arc/bend to it and a straight shot into the bell.
ford racing also sells a "hd" clutch that many mistake for the king cobra clutch...both have the same holding power and performance...but the hd clutch has a drastically heavier clutch pedal
ford racing also sells a "hd" clutch that many mistake for the king cobra clutch...both have the same holding power and performance...but the hd clutch has a drastically heavier clutch pedal
My setup with 1997 OE cable did not work and made me to trash it and go with hydraulic clutch. The cable will interfere with headers/exhaust pipe, and there is just too tight and HOT spot causing cable to melt. There is also steering box which limits pushing the exhaust pipe further to the driver side. The cable is IMO too short i.e bending around oil filter. You get much cleaner installation with hydraulic. You don't have to buy expensive kits. Just need master and slave cylinders with the same ID. If you run power brakes your choices are limited though.
are you sure you weren't running the fox length cable? I'm using the sn95 adjustable cable and have TONS of room..goes right around the oil filter.
as well..I had no problem modifying my header tubes down below. I've got a straight shot into the bell now with no heat interference issues.
hydraulic is cool, but too high maintanence and too many things to break down imo...and I don't like the pedal feel with hydraulic...
the cable was off 1997 v6 mustang. the cable is too long to go behind the oil filter, but it is a tight fit+bending when placed in front of oil filter. I would like to see how possibly can you modify headers if you have one or two tubings in the way, without completely relocating the output flange. With stock cast iron headers (output flange pointed to the block) is even more difficult. yeah hydraulic is less robust than cable but much easier to instal and IMO clutch feel is even better as there is no internal cable resistance.
my clutch with the cable is light enough to depress with two fingers.
By better clutch feel though, i'm specifically referring to the ability to feel the actual pressure plate through the cable and into the clutch pedal. With a cable clutch I can literally feel the pressure plate as it engages and disengages...this give me the best feel, especially for launching. With hydraulic clutches, they always feel so neutral, and it's tough to get a feel for what it's doing down there.
My cable was plenty long enough..I have the 96+ adjustable cable which is a tad longer than the oem non adjustable unit.
plenty of room to not hit anything up top
as for the headers...
Here are my headers (top) with the modified tube. Below is another set of the exact same headers with a tube that hasn't been relocated yet. Plenty of room to relocate...no drastic moves are necessary...just slight ones
here is a shot installed. I have a direct cable shot in now. I triple layer heat protected the cable....first with heat reflective tape, then with a thick rubber vacuum hose, then with spark plug boot shield. It still doesn't touch. So long as you have an air gap between the header tube and the cable..you can run shielding and be just fine.
By better clutch feel though, i'm specifically referring to the ability to feel the actual pressure plate through the cable and into the clutch pedal. With a cable clutch I can literally feel the pressure plate as it engages and disengages...this give me the best feel, especially for launching. With hydraulic clutches, they always feel so neutral, and it's tough to get a feel for what it's doing down there.
My cable was plenty long enough..I have the 96+ adjustable cable which is a tad longer than the oem non adjustable unit.
plenty of room to not hit anything up top
as for the headers...
Here are my headers (top) with the modified tube. Below is another set of the exact same headers with a tube that hasn't been relocated yet. Plenty of room to relocate...no drastic moves are necessary...just slight ones
here is a shot installed. I have a direct cable shot in now. I triple layer heat protected the cable....first with heat reflective tape, then with a thick rubber vacuum hose, then with spark plug boot shield. It still doesn't touch. So long as you have an air gap between the header tube and the cable..you can run shielding and be just fine.
I've done the cable setup, fox and SN-95 on my Mustang and hydraulic. I prefer the hydro throwout bearing but to save some cash I've used something like your kit you posted from ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-85...item2a03c67c45
If you can find one of those kits for a 96+ I agree the longer cable makes a difference. A set of headers with good clearance to the fork is nice too but I've worked around that as well.
I came up with this mod about 4 years ago to cut costs. I picked up the quadrant local for $20.
I picked up used 96+ cable free take-off free locally, was adjustable.
Mustang steve has an aluminum block that mounts to the firewall flange, this is nice because if you let the end of the cable but up against the hole in the firewall it's enough pressure to punch a bigger hole through the firewall, I did just that.
For the pedal, A buddy of mine we took the pivot rod that goes through the center of the brake pedal and welded a junk yard clutch pedal to it. The brake pedal, I cut the pad a little to allow room for the clutch pedal.
This was an auto brake pedal in my falcon cut down
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-85...item2a03c67c45
If you can find one of those kits for a 96+ I agree the longer cable makes a difference. A set of headers with good clearance to the fork is nice too but I've worked around that as well.
I came up with this mod about 4 years ago to cut costs. I picked up the quadrant local for $20.
I picked up used 96+ cable free take-off free locally, was adjustable.
Mustang steve has an aluminum block that mounts to the firewall flange, this is nice because if you let the end of the cable but up against the hole in the firewall it's enough pressure to punch a bigger hole through the firewall, I did just that.
For the pedal, A buddy of mine we took the pivot rod that goes through the center of the brake pedal and welded a junk yard clutch pedal to it. The brake pedal, I cut the pad a little to allow room for the clutch pedal.
This was an auto brake pedal in my falcon cut down
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