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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

CLUTCH CABLE

  • Thread starter Thread starter hhenshaw59
  • Start date Start date Nov 17, 2021
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hhenshaw59

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Nov 17, 2021
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NORMAN, OK
Nov 30, 2021
#21
  • Nov 30, 2021
  • #21
LILCBRA said:
It seems that I don't have the nut installed on the inside either, and the spring on my cable looks like yours does. I don't have any problems with clutch engagement. I'm pretty sure all that spring is there for is to maintain pressure for the cable to stay in the clutch fork, so as long as it's not binding it's probably fine. Will the cable housing move? Maybe a little, but it's probably just fine without both jam nuts - at least that's how I viewed it when I put my car together. Now, if that spring is binding, that could cause problems, so it shouldn't hurt anything to trim it some, at least so it's not as bound up as it is. But I've been able to adjust my clutch with it looking like yours does.

This is just me thinking "outloud" since I really don't know, but is there a difference between clutch pedals? If so, is yours a stock 302 pedal or was it robbed from something other than a V8 car, like a 4 cylinder or something? I mean as I understand, yours is a V8 car, so it's the stock pedal? Anyway, if it's from something else, the pivot points could be a little different to allow for more or less pressure - that might affect clutch engagement....
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Mine was a stock 76 Cobra 302 with a T4 trans, we took stock 5.0 out and put an 88 5.0 HO in with a T5 trans we are just trying to figure out how to get the slack out of the clutch cable, I will try it this weekend after we put motor and trans back in it.
 
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IICrew

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Mar 29, 2020
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Dec 1, 2021
#22
  • Dec 1, 2021
  • #22
The movable nut at the bell is singular. No jam nut. The other nut is the molded nut. There is no adjustment at the bell. You just tighten that down.

Your adjustment is at the firewall. In the previous cable pics look at the blue nut. Yours may be another color but that castle nut is where you adjust. After cutting that spring hook it all up. From engine compartment grab the cable near the firewall. Pull towards the radiator. Then by hand run the blue nut towards firewall. This will vary but usually run the nut near the sleeve. Dont tighten it with a tool. Only by hand. Then release cable. Make sure the dimples on the nut align with the sleeve. The cable should not be tight. Only snug. On my setup the blue nut ends up just over halfway on the threads. You want a little play in the pedal. If it's too tight you will ruin the throw out bearing in no time.
 
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