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Clutch Disengagement Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter zac1971
  • Start date Start date Jul 26, 2011
Z

zac1971

New Member
Jun 16, 2010
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Jul 26, 2011
#1
  • Jul 26, 2011
  • #1
Hi everyone, I just swapped my car over from an AOD to a T-5. Everything went in like a dream, with seemingly no issues. I installed the SVE Mongoose Master Clutch replacement kit from late Model restoration which came with everything including the flywheel. Anyway, I cant get the clutch to disengage no matter what! I initially thought it might have been the stock quadrant so i replaced that with a upr triple hook quadrant and firewall adjuster and i used the stock length non-adjustable cable. I tried all of the positions on the quadrant, as well as multiple adjustments, but nothing! The fork is traveling all the way as far as it can go but i still can disengage the clutch. I checked the throwout bearing and it is on correctly, and i installed the clutch disc correctly. Any ideas what could be causing this it is driving me crazy! Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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Jul 26, 2011
#2
  • Jul 26, 2011
  • #2
Are you sure that the hub springs are facing the transmission side?

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.
 
Z

zac1971

New Member
Jun 16, 2010
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Jul 26, 2011
#3
  • Jul 26, 2011
  • #3
Yeah the springs are facing the trans as they should, I made it a point to do that. I'm going over everything in my head and I hink I might know what it is. I remember the throwout bearing falling out when i attempted to install the fork. I think when i installed it i clipped it under the metal retaining prongs instead of putting it over top of them. I think this is basically allowing the bearing to move toward the trans when the pedal is pressed so it is losing its pressure. i have to crawl under there now and see if i can see that through the inspection hole.
 

JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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Mo.
Jul 26, 2011
#4
  • Jul 26, 2011
  • #4
bad pressure plate?Bad cable?
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
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Jul 26, 2011
#5
  • Jul 26, 2011
  • #5
Are the fingers on the pressure plate flat?... and did you tighten it down to specs?
 
Z

zac1971

New Member
Jun 16, 2010
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Jul 27, 2011
#6
  • Jul 27, 2011
  • #6
I did torque it to specs, and the kit was brand new. The only thing I can say is that I assume the fingers are OK as it is a new kit, never installed prior to this. I thought about maybe a bad pressure plate but what are the odds. I think I'm going to have to pull the trans again to figure this out
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
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Jul 27, 2011
#7
  • Jul 27, 2011
  • #7
Did you use a torque wrench when you tighten the pressure plate bolts? Because if the bolts are not tighten evenly and torque down right.. the fingers on the pressure plate will not flaten out..and it will cause disengagement problems.
 
Z

zac1971

New Member
Jun 16, 2010
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Jul 28, 2011
#8
  • Jul 28, 2011
  • #8
yes i did use a torque wrench to tighten everything down.
 
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