clutch job done, whats squeaking??

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
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Napa, California
alright, i just finished my my clutch/tranny/starter swap and everything is back together, i started the car and there sounds like some sort of squeaking coming from my bellhousing. what could this be? is it just the clutch breaking in?
 
I had the same problem. I eventually replaced the throw out bearing with one from an autoparts store never had anymore problems with it. Is it a Cobra clutch by any chance? I compared the TOB that came with the kit to the one from Autozone, and the one i got from Autozone is much beefier, the one in the kit had spun and grabbed ahold of the clutch fork and the fork had actually cut into the rim of the bearing. Made a god awfull squalling sound for about two months before i finally got pissed and changed it. But like they said put some preload on it, that'll probabally fix it. If it don't take it out and change the damn thing, i think i paid like $18 for my new one. Hope you get it fixed.
 
Mines doing the same, started doing it after a month of putting in the new one...got it from advance, only like 17 bucks or whatever i regret not getting one from Downs or Ford replacement the squeak is pretty annoying...I would think putting a preload on it would wear it out slightly faster? Yea i no someone once showed Ford dealerships did it but still.
 
The preload is on the cable. It gets the TOB to sit flush against the diaphram fingers on the PP. The preload, in relation to the clampling loads of a clutch, does nothing to wear out components. It just keeps the TOB from being able to dance around on the input shaft retainer. Allowing it to dance on the retainer can actually do some damage all its own.

JMD, ou can make the adjustment at either location.

If you do it at the fork (which is where I would do it too), you can check tension as you adjust (you can tug on the exposed cable where it enters the fork). Just tighten it up till you dont have any cable slack. Then I would check it and if you need more slack removal, just do it at the FWA (should be less than a turn at the FWA at that point).

Good luck.
 
You can adjust the cable and get it to go away, but that's not the correct way to fix this problem.
It will come back, and it will get worse.

I too have had the unfortunate luck of having a brand new TOB go back days after a clutch install, it happens.
 
2000xp8 said:
You can adjust the cable and get it to go away, but that's not the correct way to fix this problem.
It will come back, and it will get worse.

I too have had the unfortunate luck of having a brand new TOB go back days after a clutch install, it happens.
What makes you say this? A new TOB that is in good shape can make noise if it is not lightly held against the diaphram fingers. THat doesnt mean the TOB is bad - it means the proper adjustment was not achieved.
 
It shouldn't squeek regardless of adjustment.

Adjusting it is just a bandaid, as the clutch wears it will happen again.

I know from experience it's going to get worse and worse. Soon he'll be sitting at stoplights with his foot resting on the pedal so he doesn't have to hear it.

Let me ask you this, if you payed someone to do a clutch job, and it made noise, would you let them adjust it or make them put a new one in?
 
A new TOB that is fine can make noise as it wanders around on the shaft retainer. We will have to agree to disagree, I guess.

BTW, if he adjusts the preload correctly, he wont have to rest his foot on the clutch.
 
Fine from a mechanical standpoint, yes, fine from annoying, no. Yes he'll be able to adjust the noise away, but it will come back.

I agree it is not absolutely necessary to remove it, if it was mine, it would be switched.