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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

clutch options?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackVert
  • Start date Start date May 20, 2004

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
May 20, 2004
#1
  • May 20, 2004
  • #1
my clutch is way too hard to push in. i have a hard time with it, and it is way too hard for my wife. my mechanic says he thinks it is a centerforce, but he is not sure. is there anything i can do to make it easier to depress, or is my only option to get a new clutch?

what clutch is easy to push in? i won't be making a lot of power anytime soon, i don't go to the track, and i rarely race on the street, so i don't need a heavy duty clutch. the main thing is that it be easy to push in so my wife can drive the car.

could i replace it in my driveway if i put it on jack stands? i'm very good with mechanical stuff, but have done very little automotive work.
 

5.0 from 95

Founding Member
Nov 6, 2001
738
0
0
Emory, TX
May 20, 2004
#2
  • May 20, 2004
  • #2
Can't help you on the how hard it is, but if you have any tools, you can change the clutch. I have a spec stage 1 and it is not very hard to push.


Paul
 

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
2,244
0
0
Glenview,Il
May 21, 2004
#3
  • May 21, 2004
  • #3
Well if your cable and quadrant are ok then it is your pressure plate. The lighest pressure plate I know of is the king cobra clutch which has 10% less pedal effort than our stock clutches (according to ford). Generally anything aftermarket is heavy. Since we have a cable and its a direct link to the clutch (unlike hydraulic) you will feel every extra bit of pressure depending on which pressure plate you get. Mine is pretty heavy (so everyone says) but I can drive in downtown chichago no prob. Hell I even deliver pizzas in my car from time to time. But I'm used to my clutch and my left leg is stronger than the right one now (because of the clutch). Oh BTW I have a spec stage II, there rated to about 500rwhp so I expected it to be heavy.
 
S

SB

New Member
Feb 1, 2001
42
0
0
Montverde, FL
May 22, 2004
#4
  • May 22, 2004
  • #4
Stay away from the King Cobra clutch. I put one in last year and regret it. I also read the 10% less pressure line in the catalog. But read carefully (which I didn't) and you will see that is referring to the Heavy Duty clutch (which they claim has 40% more capacity then stock). This clutch is much stiffer than the stock Cobra clutch.

I replaced my first clutch at 90,000 miles with stock and then at 175,000 with the King Cobra. I definitely felt the difference, my wife cannot drive the car anymore. Sound familiar?

I am seriously considering replacing this clutch before it is worn out and putting in a stock or NAPA clutch. If you don't need the extra capacity it isn't worth the price to your foot.

If you find a good clutch with light pressure let me know.

Thanks
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2004
#5
  • May 22, 2004
  • #5
Yep, your pressure plate is shot. I had the same exact experience. It was so bad that it shattered my TOB into pieces.

I got a stock replacement from autozone. After the install was done, it was great. It still isn't as light as my brothers 2003 GT w/ stock clutch, but my mom can drive it just fine.

If you don't have the money saved up, then baby it for now. I bought the car with the bad clutch. Took 900 miles to finally go, and when it did, it wasn't good.

I ended up driving the car home not using the clutch at all. Just slowed down to 5mph when I approached a stoplight, green or not.

At any rate, the longer you put it off, the more likely it will blow up big time. Save up the money for the clutch kit (TOB, PP & clutch disc). Don't forget to buy a new pilot bearing & a new rear main seal. Also, have the flywheel resurfaced at a minimum.

You need varying length extensions (1/2" & 3/8"), swivel joints (1/2 drive and 3/8), 2' long breaker bar (some nuts can be stubborn to break loose), full socket set including 1/4" 3/8" & 1/2" drive sockets. 14mm 12 point closed end wrench for driveshaft bolts. Rent the O2 sensor removal tool from autozone as well as slide hammer & w/ bearing puller attachment (for pilot bearing).

Also, get 1/2" to 3/8" & 3/8" to 1/4" adapters. Sometimes you need a big ratchet for a small nut/bolt (starter bolts are PITA w/o adapters).

A full set of open end wrenches would be nice, but not absolutely necessary.

The jackstands need to be extremely tall (1 1/2 ft to 2ft at least). Otherwise it will be impossible. You will need a good jack to get it high enough. Stock jack can get it high enough to get a bottle jack underneath.

When you are ready to do the install, send me a PM/email. I have tons of tips to make the installation go without a hitch. Just did mine a few months ago.
Scott
 

AutobahnStang

Member
Mar 23, 2003
84
0
6
May 22, 2004
#6
  • May 22, 2004
  • #6
had the same problem with my clutch, actually got a cramp once... it died late last year. I installed a SPEC stage 3 and the pressure is very light.
 
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