Clutch Pedal feels rough and pops. HELP!

xMalignancy

Member

Jun 30, 2010

36

0

6

Chico, CA

May 20, 2011

#1

• May 20, 2011

• #1

So about 3 Months ago i replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, new steel bearing retainer, and pilot bearing. Install went great and everything worked fine. but about 3-4 weeks ago, all of a sudden depressing the clutch pedal feels rough and feels like its grinding. As i drive the car for about 10 miles, it stays rough but then starts popping right before it engages. It will do this untill i turn the car off and let it sit for about 4 hours and it does the same thing..i would apreciate any suggestions as to what this might be.. Thanks...

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

8

18

Huntsville, AL

May 20, 2011

#2

• May 20, 2011

• #2

Is it possible the flywheel has worked itself loose ? Was loctite used for the bolts ? How about the cable, could it be frayed and binding ? Do you still have the stock clutch quadrant ?

 

J

jka

5 Year Member

Jan 17, 2010

339

23

29

May 21, 2011

#3

• May 21, 2011

• #3

Sounds like a bad clutch cable to me.

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

15 Year Member

Nov 11, 2003

6,945

1,598

223

Northern KY

May 21, 2011

#4

• May 21, 2011

• #4

Check the clutch cable and especially the quadrant, especially if you have a stock quadrant. It's probably broken and that's where your popping is coming from.

 

xMalignancy

Member

Jun 30, 2010

36

0

6

Chico, CA

May 21, 2011

#5

• May 21, 2011

• #5

Yeah Loctite was used...but i never changed the cable or the quadrant...ive read about these plastic quadrants..so im gonna just replace it and the cable..thanks guys

 

V

v8only

Active Member

Jul 3, 2003

2,378

22

49

May 22, 2011

#6

• May 22, 2011

• #6

check the cable routing first..sounds misrouted to me. Goes forward then down on top of the steering rack to the left of the motor mount then under the car to the clutch fork.

 

xMalignancy

Member

Jun 30, 2010

36

0

6

Chico, CA

May 22, 2011

#7

• May 22, 2011

• #7

Thanks for the help...
the one thing that concerns me the most...is that its not that bad if i havent driven the car in a few hours or on the highway...but when i start town driving..like stop and go, it gets bad..but it goes away if i dont drive it the rest of the day.. does the cable get hot or something? haha or the throwout bearing?

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

8

18

Huntsville, AL

May 22, 2011

#8

• May 22, 2011

• #8

If you still have the stock plastic quadrant it's somewhat of a miracle that it's still working. If you replace it with an aluminum quadrant plan on removing your driver's seat to get to it, and consider installing a firewall adjuster at the same time so you don't have to crawl under the car to adjust your clutch. This article should help: Steeda Clutch Cable Upgrades - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine

 

xMalignancy

Member

Jun 30, 2010

36

0

6

Chico, CA

May 23, 2011

#9

• May 23, 2011

• #9

ok so i crawled under there and it turns out there is an aluminum quadrant in there already. It doesnt look name brand or anything maybe just an autozone replacement? So im gonna just replace the cable and see how that works... or should i buy a whole quadrant cable and FW adjuster and replace it all?

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

15 Year Member

Nov 11, 2003

6,945

1,598

223

Northern KY

May 23, 2011

#10

• May 23, 2011

• #10

I like the combo that Maximum Motorsports sells. They use a genuine Ford cable (the best you can get) and their quadrant and firewall adjuster are nice.

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

8

18

Huntsville, AL

May 23, 2011

#11

• May 23, 2011

• #11

Good advice above. If you buy it all as a kit (or at least the same brand) there would be less chance of one piece not playing well with the others. Also check the routing of the cable, it does go very close to the headers and tends to get cooked there. Might want to bend the bracket away from the headers as much as possible.