clutch pedal question

65notch

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Jun 18, 2005

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661 Cali

Mar 5, 2006

#1

• Mar 5, 2006

• #1

im in the process of installing the clutch/brake pedal assembly into my 65 coupe. im doing a t5 swap so i had to buy a used clutch assembly, i just installed new bushings and spring, but it seems to me the spring isnt correct. when on, it bulls the pedal to the floor...shouldnt it pull away from the floor?

 

fasttback

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Apr 16, 2005

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Northern CA

Mar 5, 2006

#2

• Mar 5, 2006

• #2

Sounds like it's working right. Normally it would be hooked up to the clutch linkage, which would not allow it to go to the floor (unless you want to disengage the pressure plate/clutch = shift). I believe It's the geometry of the pedal arch and spring forces.

Did you have a fun time installing the spring?

 

fasttback

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Apr 16, 2005

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Northern CA

Mar 5, 2006

#3

• Mar 5, 2006

• #3

fasttback said:

Sounds like it's working right. Normally it would be hooked up to the clutch linkage, which would not allow it to go to the floor (unless you want to disengage the pressure plate/clutch = shift). I believe It's the geometry of the pedal arch and spring forces.

Did you have a fun time installing the spring?

Click to expand...

Sorry, this comment applies to manual linkage. I not sure how this works with cable and hydraulic setups. But with the stock pedal and spring it is working correctly.

 

65notch

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Jun 18, 2005

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661 Cali

Mar 5, 2006

#4

• Mar 5, 2006

• #4

fasttback said:

Did you have a fun time installing the spring?

Click to expand...

o yeah...i broke one screwdriver and bent another...

 

D

DJCarbine

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May 4, 2005

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Mar 5, 2006

#5

• Mar 5, 2006

• #5

65notch said:

o yeah...i broke one screwdriver and bent another...

Click to expand...

I cut that spring out from under the dash... after everything gets all worn out it puts everything in a bind and lets the throwout bearing ride against the fingers. Had to replace 2 TOB's

If the bushings and such are new, when you hook everything up it should pull the pedal up (like its supposed to) and also help push it down when you want the clutch in. I dont know how it works, something to do with the spring and linkage geometry, black magic, and the gnomes hiding in my defroster ducts

 

65notch

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Jun 18, 2005

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661 Cali

Mar 5, 2006

#6

• Mar 5, 2006

• #6

DJCarbine said:

I cut that spring out from under the dash... after everything gets all worn out it puts everything in a bind and lets the throwout bearing ride against the fingers. Had to replace 2 TOB's

Click to expand...

u cut the spring out? and it works fine now?

 

D

DJCarbine

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May 4, 2005

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Mar 5, 2006

#7

• Mar 5, 2006

• #7

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=586648&highlight=Clutch+Spring

Well, mine worked perfectly fine, read the above thread...

The pedal effort increased a little bit, but I like how stiff and lively the pedal is now that I cut it out. The pedal comes up MUCH better, and I got used to it after a week or so. Btw.. I daily drive my car in chicago traffic, so it can't be that bad

I would still go around asking advice on the board, or put everything together and see how you like it with the spring.

 

LMan

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Aug 10, 2002

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Mar 6, 2006

#8

• Mar 6, 2006

• #8

If you are using a cable clutch, you do NOT use the underdash spring.

Dunno about hydraulic.

 

red65

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Apr 12, 2003

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Ann Arbor, MI

Mar 6, 2006

#9

• Mar 6, 2006

• #9

LMan said:

Dunno about hydraulic.

Click to expand...

Ditch the underdash spring if you're going hydraulic as well - the clutch master cylinder provides adequate return force. Works fine on mine, anyway (JMC hydraulic clutch).

 

65notch

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Jun 18, 2005

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661 Cali

Mar 7, 2006

#10

• Mar 7, 2006

• #10

thanks guys...im doing a cable clutch. ill get rid of that spring right now...