clutch/TOB/flywheel

Torinalth · May 2, 2005

hey guys. I just reciently started having the standard TOB squeek that goes away when you press lightly on the clutch pedal. so i got under there, removed the plate and shot up some lithium grease and didnt help.... so i figure i am going to replace the TOB and clutch to call it a day. question i have though is this: I turned the car on (tranny out of gear) and got up under the car. i noticed that the lil rocker arm and the clutch were a bit wobbley. this cant be good right? granted i am not having any issues yet, but i am trying to see if its a flywheel problem, or something horrid like a bent crank, or could this possibly be just because of the clutch/PP.

i'd like to have all the parts on hand (clutch/pp, TOB, and FW if needed) so i donthave to pull it apart again, as i have no lift, just a jack, stands, ramps, and hand tools. knowing it will take a few hours to get it done (if not the weekend) i would like to be fully prepped. so what do you think about the wobble?

Torinalth

dcarlson · May 2, 2005

Describe the "little rocker arm" better. Do you mean the clutch fork?

Do the just fingers of the clutch where the throw out bearing rides wobble or does the whole clutch wobble?

It could just be normal engine vibration. Look at he crank pulley on the front of the engine. Does the clutch wobble worse?

Torinalth · May 2, 2005

crank pulley looks fine, zero wobble. and its the entire clutch that wobbles, not just the fingers... truth be told i didnt even look at the fingers, just the surround. and the arm i am referring to (and knowing full well my terminology is wrong) is what the clutch cable hooks to. cable pulls the arm and the arm then connects to the pressure plate i assume, was kinda hard to see inside.

Torinalth

99blkcobravert · May 3, 2005

Sounds to me that you need to pull it apart and fix the wobble before the pressure plate comes loose and destroys the transmission.

Torinalth · May 3, 2005

lovely, just what i wanted to hear. sigh. anyone have an opinion on the Cyn-R-Gy flywheel from modular depot (yes i am going for light weight) vs the spec aluminum over at MPH?

prolly going to get a spec clutch TOB & PP just cant figure out what each stage is good for....

Torinalth

dcarlson · May 3, 2005

Torinalth said:
prolly going to get a spec clutch TOB & PP just cant figure out what each stage is good for....

I've got them on the shelf and run one in my daily driver. What are you looking for; Power level, pedal feel, etc?

Mike97gt · May 3, 2005

dcarlson said:
I've got them on the shelf and run one in my daily driver. What are you looking for; Power level, pedal feel, etc?

sorry about the threadjacking but how is the spec stage 4. pedal, holding power.etc. i need a lot of holding power, i am just flat out brutal on my clutch.. i powershift atleast 10 times a day and practice launches a lot. i like too launch 3500 or higher sliping the clutch.

i have a centerforce DF now and it slips on the 2-3 powershifts.

Torinalth · May 3, 2005

i dont want a rock hard clutch as sometimes i get way to wasted to drive and other have to drive my GT, plus this is my daily driver. holding power... i really dunno, i put out a lot of miles on the car, and in those miles I run across a few street races.... dont need anything extreme i dont think, but more then stock would be nice. i am going to be staying NA so i dont need anything to hold against more then 350-400HP. so in all just a slight upgrade from stock i suppose... harder pedal is fine as long as its not more then 40% more effort.

my main concern though is the flywheel... mainly being the stock is 30lbs, spec aluminum is 15 and cyn-r-gy is 11.5.... i would love to have the cyn-r-gy but having issues justafying 200 more then the spec aluminum.

Torinalth

dcarlson · May 3, 2005

MikeZ28 said:
sorry about the threadjacking but how is the spec stage 4. pedal, holding power.etc. i need a lot of holding power, i am just flat out brutal on my clutch.. i powershift atleast 10 times a day and practice launches a lot. i like too launch 3500 or higher sliping the clutch.

i have a centerforce DF now and it slips on the 2-3 powershifts.

Yeah, the spec stage 4 will grab harder than the centerforce DF. It grabs so hard that it is only recommended for heavy duty transmissions. Stage 4 has solid hub. Pedal effort should be about the same as the spec stage 3: firm but not bad considering the holding power.

dcarlson · May 3, 2005

Torinalth said:
i dont want a rock hard clutch as sometimes i get way to wasted to drive and other have to drive my GT, plus this is my daily driver. holding power... i really dunno, i put out a lot of miles on the car, and in those miles I run across a few street races.... dont need anything extreme i dont think, but more then stock would be nice. i am going to be staying NA so i dont need anything to hold against more then 350-400HP. so in all just a slight upgrade from stock i suppose... harder pedal is fine as long as its not more then 40% more effort.

Are you going to put drag radials or slicks on the car? How many miles are you getting out of the stock clutch? If you only have regular street tires and are easy in the clutch, stage 1 may be all you need. It is rated for 420 lb ft of torque. If you know you are going to be more aggressive later you could go for stage 2.

Torinalth said:
my main concern though is the flywheel... mainly being the stock is 30lbs, spec aluminum is 15 and cyn-r-gy is 11.5.... i would love to have the cyn-r-gy but having issues justafying 200 more then the spec aluminum.
Torinalth

It depends on you budget. I can think of a lot of places to spend 200 bucks that will get you more gain than those last 3.5 pounds.

Torinalth · May 4, 2005

that does make sense on the flywheel. i'll prolly hit the spec then so i can spend the money else where.

the clutch.... well, my car will never see slicks. i will be keeping tyhis car forever and as such as upgrading everything to more then what is needed so it will never die. on the rear end i will be gong with moser 31 splines and either an F150 posi or possibly eaton, so i will have more grip. i am also going to be starting on my suspension TA, PHB, LCAs, springs and shocks, so i will have better traction to the back as well. and hopefully some point in the next two years i'll be dropping the T3650 for a T56.

i have an 02gt, stock clutch currently, and it has 67k on the car. so, whats your thought? also will be needing a solid TOB. so i was thinking MM unless Spec has gone to all metal.

Torinalth

dcarlson · May 4, 2005

The Spec clutches I have on the shelf have a metal TOB. I just checked.

If you got 67,000 miles from the stock clutch, Stage 1 is all you need right now. But if you really are going to put a T-56 and 31 spline rear in it you might as well upgrade to stage 2 so it all matches. Those are pretty heavy duty parts. (Heavier duty than you need right now, IMHO). No sense in pairing them up with a stock clutch. Do stage 2. Then the whole thing will be bulletproof for your street-tire combination.

Torinalth · May 5, 2005

that is my main goal, upgrade everything so that my entire car (as best as posible) is bulletproof. hence the T56 (trashing the 3650) and 31 splines (even though i will prolly never see above 350hp nor sliks) and eventually a big bore block with all lightwight high compression internals for fast revving but capable of adding power while no chance of breaking (rev limited moved to 7k with eXcalibrator at that point).

I'll keep all that in mind and start saving a bit of money to get the flywheel and stage 2. thanks for the information.

Torinalth

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