Sorry. Ford actually recommends replacing the entire control arm, however you can get away with replacing the balljoint with a Moog or Steeda unit. What I have found over the years is the replacement units are larger in diameter than stock, and have the knurls on it and when you press fit them in, it stays in place by the tightness of fitting into the smaller hole of the stock balljoint. When you press them out and install the same replacement,may or may not be as tight.
Jeez! That'll change things! You've got some fun packages on the way. Will you set a Christmas tree on the front porch to make it even more exciting for when you come home from work?
Jack that thing back up and hang the strut back on it. This way the spring does the work for you. Back the nut up on the ball joint where you can break it loose. Whack the spindle on the side and nine out of ten it'll just pop loose. Sometimes you need to whack the nut with a board on top. Brass or aluminum drift or hammer if that won't get it.
Ball joint nut was frozen, so it was cut off. Strut shaft nut was frozen so shaft was cut to remove. I'll try some heat and the fork tool tomorrow as @FoxMustangLvr suggested. So when I do the other side, I should start with removing spindle before the spring and strut?
I have something that beats any big hammer you can swing effectively. It is a Sioux air hammer that will drive 3/16" steel rivets with ease. This is not one of the $20 lightweight short stoke air hammers that pecks like a bird. It is all steel and cast iron, weighs about 3 pounds and hits about 2000 time per minuteA little progress today but that's all I have time for. Anyone know a good way to remove spindle from ball joint besides a BFH?
I have something that beats any big hammer you can swing effectively. It is a Sioux air hammer that will drive 3/16" steel rivets with ease. This is not one of the $20 lightweight short stoke air hammers that pecks like a bird. It is all steel and cast iron, weighs about 3 pounds and hits about 2000 time per minute
Put a flathead rivet driver in it and bang away on the side of the joint socket and work your way around it to break loose any corrosion. Put the nut on the joint stud if you want to protect the threads. Or if you don't care about the threads, put the flathead rivet driver on top of the stud. In ether case, run the air control on the gun to max flow and bang away. I haven't seen anything yet that it would not break loose.
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