code 157 MAF min voltage

[95mustang_gt]

well monday i cleaned my MAF and then yesterday when i was leaving work,my car will die everytime i put it in drive the rpms will bounce to 1100 and then 200 and repeat 3 or 4 times and die,and then i wil have to wait until it warms up.So i pulled the codes today at work and got 157,so i clean the maf again and still got the code i 157.I took the neg- cable off and let set,and then ran the codes and it still 157.

My question is do i replace the maf?If i do should i get a pro-m 75 or 76mm?

thanks
Jesse

 

[Zero Signal]

You might have busted one of the two thermistor leads. If so, you could probably take the electronics out and fix it with some low heat solder. BUT if you bought a new one, the Pro-M/PMASS 75mm would be plenty of MAF. I'm considering the 80mm since it already comes attached to a fat filter.

 

[Mike97gt]

^^^ I agree. you need to be really carefull when cleaning the maf. they are very easy to break.

 

[final5-0]

You might have busted one of the two thermistor leads. If so, you could probably take the electronics out and fix it with some low heat solder. BUT if you bought a new one, the Pro-M/PMASS 75mm would be plenty of MAF. I'm considering the 80mm since it already comes attached to a fat filter.

I'm with John about the maf might be damaged

Just a thought here Jesse

Don't know what your long term plans are but if you are gonna go for a new after market maf and especially if you go for a ProM ...

Might consider going up in inj size now while you can order the correct maf cal.

btw, in the ProM line, the 77 & 80 meters used to be the most accurate. Since things at ProM have changed, might be a good idea to talk with their tech peeps.

Grady

 

[95mustang_gt]

I'm with John about the maf might be damaged

Just a thought here Jesse

Don't know what your long term plans are but if you are gonna go for a new after market maf and especially if you go for a ProM ...

Might consider going up in inj size now while you can order the correct maf cal.

btw, in the ProM line, the 77 & 80 meters used to be the most accurate. Since things at ProM have changed, might be a good idea to talk with their tech peeps.

Grady

When i took out the maf the first to clean it,i notice there was a slight bend on of the leads.But the techs said it was ok
Well my plans for this year will be a good set of heads and a cam.Next year will be a turbo or supercharger.So with the plans i have should i do 24 or 30# inj now?

thanks
Jesse

 

[final5-0]

When i took out the maf the first to clean it,i notice there was a slight bend on of the leads.But the techs said it was ok
Well my plans for this year will be a good set of heads and a cam.Next year will be a turbo or supercharger.So with the plans i have should i do 24 or 30# inj now?

thanks
Jesse

Here is the quick version of my .02 cents worth

DEPENDS ...... DEPENDS ...... DEPENDS

If you keep things kinda low key with something like a NA GT40 setup and try to get by without a tune I'd go 24's

If you have goals for a more serious NA h/c/i setup at say around 300 to 325 rwhp, I'd go 30's and expect to need a tune

Now when it comes to your plans of BOOST .........................

You more than likely will find it necessary to upgrade more than inj's which were quite adequate on your previous NA setup

Was that what you wanted to hear Jesse

Grady

 

[95mustang_gt]

That is exactly what i wanted to here grady,thanks for the info.


would i need a tune right when i get the 30#inj and maf on or as i progress on with the mods?

Jesse

 

[final5-0]

That is exactly what i wanted to here grady,thanks for the info.

Glad the news was not too disappointing Jesse

would i need a tune right when i get the 30#inj and maf on or as i progress on with the mods?

Jesse

You might be able to get by tuneless with 30's and a matching caled maf but its doubtful IMHO. It would most likely be ok at wot but idle and cruise won't be all that great.

Grady