Code reader help

[mustangmax]

I dont know whats going on with my code reader. I hooked it up per the instructions to perform the KOER test. I think I've got a bad injector and want to isolate it with a cylinder balance test, as well as see if there are any codes that come up. The code reader I have displays the codes on a digital readout as it scans. I hooked the reader up and turned on the ignition. With the car running, I activated the test and when I did the there was a slight grinding sound like the starter was activated. The sound was only for a moment, then the motor acted like it was going to stall. It then recovered, but the code reader didnt go through the regular paces it's supposed to. It didnt show the cylinder code or scan the motor. Anyone have any ideas as to why this happened, what the cause/solution is?

 

[mustangmax]

Anyone? I know its not the most exciting post, but I could use the help if anyone has any ideas.

 

[jrichker]

Do the paper clip thing...

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.