coil overs & K-Member should I buy???? HELP

[smithjp1]

I want to build a street/strip car on my 1991GT,

I want some opinions of D&D coil overs with their k-member and A-arm set up

Do you reccoment another brand, would like more header clearance and no Geometry changes (move wheel forward/back etc..)

I don't have $1k to spend, so any budget reccomendations would be great.
(is it really worth it, or should I leave the suspension alone????)

Thanks

Paul View attachment 513019 (here's where I'm at on my build)

 

[millhouse]

I run a AJE k-member. I've had no problems so far. The geometry stays the same as stock (unless otherwise specified), and their prices are competitive.

 

[crazypete]

Theres some dudes on ebay, musclemotors I believe, selling entire groundpounder tubular fronts with k-mem,-a-arms AND coilovers together for $550.

Best deal I've seen. Stuff looks solid except in 1 place but hell, it survived my street. I'm talking people who live on dirt roads that come visit me tell me my street is crap. Huge potholes, waves, bumps. No breakage 1/2 a year now. Coilovers are noisy clunky things but all coilovers are noisy clunky things. A-arms come with poly bushings. Talk about clearance!! No geometry changes at all. You'll need CC plates with the coilovers.

 

[2002whitegt]

The D&D kit is great, it installed with no problems and the ride is so much better than the cut stock springs i had on there, the most important thing in choosing your coilover springs is the height and spring rate combined with your shocks.

You did say you wanted a street/strip car so a 14" 175lbs coilover springs should be good.

The best place I found to get the kit was on ebay, just keep your eyes open and you can get a pretty good deal.

View attachment 512989

View attachment 512991

 

[90mustangGT]

I also want to get a k-member. I already have coil-overs. I made the mistake of re-building the stock lowers by dissasambling them, painting, and then installing a new ball joint and poly bushings, what a PITA. AJE sells front A-arms for $169 on Jegs, QA1 and DnD are only about $220-230. A buddy of mine has the UPR setup, looks nice, real nice.

 

[crazypete]

I installed mine with the motor in the car:

2 hydraulic jacks, one under each subframe holding up the body,

3 scissors jacks:
1 under the harmonic balancer (light pressure)
1 under the front sump (med pressure)
1 under the bellhousing (full pressure)

Good thing is you can tip the motor to get longtubes in this way.

 

[ImportEater98]

Do NOT buy QA1. The fit is bad. Moves your wheels up 1 inch, and then you can't steer the car without the wheels hitting the fender. Very disappointed in the Tech Support as well.
-John

 

[jerryD]

i would reccomend AJE or PA racing. mainly for overall qaulity, fitment, header clearence and not having to do any grinding or whatever to make it fit. now some folks don't have a problem with others, but it is just those few that do, that make me spend the extra $50-100 for better stuff. for the coil-o's i would reccomend maximum motorsorts cause theirs has a better seal setup for the bearing compare to every other kit.

all that said, i went with an AJE with D&D coil-o's cause that is what AJE sells(or at the time did). install was a breeze, no probs. just hold it up there and bolt it up. i do like the way the A-arms connect on the AJE compare to EVERYONE else's k-member.