Coil spring compressor

65fastbackresto · May 15, 2007

I was going to pay a guy $100 bucks to do this for me, but I called OReilys and they`ll lend me a compressor for free.

I`m changing my coils up front and have never attempted a job like this and I have questions.

First, I hear this can be dangerous, if I run a chain thru the spring next to the compessor and tie it around the engine bay, would that offer me some security as to it jumping out on somebody and hurting them?

Second, if I use a roller spring perch is it gonna make it more danegerous when I go to set the spring back in its perch. (like the spring roll out toward me.

Any input on these things and other things I haven`t thought of yet please let me know.

BlackGMC · May 15, 2007

Try and rent the inside spring compressor not the outside ones used for struts.

65fastbackresto · May 15, 2007

It is the inside compressor

Shouldn`t I be able to compress the spring from the top of the shock tower?

BlackGMC · May 15, 2007

With the inside spring compresser, you just take out the shock and put in its place. With the outside, you have to mount the compressers on the outside due to the length, The problem with the outside is that you tend to compress one side more than the other, and it becomes a pain. the inside compressor is a breeze..

Inside
View attachment 385692

outside

krash kendall · May 15, 2007

Just use the internal compressor as it was intended. Any extra chains or crap in there will make the job more difficult/dangerous. You may need to use some lengths of pipe as spacers on the threaded rod due to the compressor being too long. I also put hockey tape on the tangs of mine to prevent it from slipping.

Max Power · May 15, 2007

There is a version that is a long plate that goes over the top of the shock tower instead of the top set of hooks. It works very well for smaller top openings like in Mavericks, and in applications where the control arm will be removed.

65fastbackresto · May 15, 2007

Black GMC

Thanks for the pics, the inside one looks pretty simple to me. I had a buddy that had a spring jump out on him once and busted a bunch of his teeth out. Whats scares me is the guy that happened too is a GOOD mechanic, I just dont want anybody to get hurt.

jikelly · May 15, 2007

Yes, protect your teeth.

The inside coil spring compressor will make life easy. Well as long as you use it properly. Apply a little grease to the threads to lubricate them. That will help to keep them from being stripped.

65fastbackresto · May 15, 2007

The spring

Is the only thing holding the spring in its perch the pressure that the coil is applying to it? Once I compress the spring out of its perch, I just remove the arm and drop it out of the way?

krash kendall · May 15, 2007

Nevermind

krash kendall · May 15, 2007

You may have to remove the bolts for the strut rods where they attatch to the LCA to allow the control arms to travel down low enough for the compressed spring to come out.

65fastbackresto · May 15, 2007

I`m trying to change my coil springs

I got new ones from Meiyer Racing, higher spring rate. I got the new leafs on last night, and WOW, it is firm, but not too firm. Totally elimanated the rear body roll and I dont even have a rear sway bar.\

Yea I bought new strut rod bushings too, was gonna do that at the same time.

mrfomoco · May 15, 2007

Be very very careful! I just had the pins taken out of my pinky yesterday from a coil spring accident. I used the internal one, and it failed on me when I was putting the spring back in. One of the clamps bumped on the inside of the fenderwell and somehow the whole thing released.

Now I have the one that the guy sells on ebay. It mounts in place of the shock and in my opinion, is much safer. We were able to get the spring back in with this compressor. Good luck!

65intex · May 15, 2007

Im also replacing the front coils on my car along with the spring seats and sway bar end links. I have read here that with the end links removed and the UCA down all the way you can slide the 620 springs in. Is this true?

Sicarius428 · May 15, 2007

Be very careful. These high rate springs hold a lot of energy when compared to your tired stock ones. I was able to use the outside spring compressor which was a total pain but possibly a bit stronger. Even though my springs bent the shafts of the spring compressor a slight ammount. Lowering springs are pretty helpful because there is less to compress making it easier to install. Wear gloves and glasses, take your time and tripple check everything. It is not a hard task but can be potentially dangerous. While you are at it, are you going to do the shelby drop? If you were ever thinking about doing it... now would be the perfect time. Good luck.
Kevin

65fastbackresto · May 15, 2007

Shelby drop

Yea I think I`m gonna order the template from Opentracker to do the drop. Its $15 bucks and its metal so maybe I cant screw this up.

geostang351 · May 15, 2007

65fastbackresto said:
maybe I cant screw this up.

crapola

tjnavyblue · May 15, 2007

Just place an order with Opentracker for other stuff you need and I'm sure he'll throw the template in no charge (of course, you can't quote me on that as I in no way represent Opentracker. I just know from this forum and other dealings that he has a history of being a very good guy to do business with).

65fastbackresto · May 15, 2007

Opentracker

I talked to John over there he is cool, very willing to help with pricing and information needed.

fasttback · May 15, 2007

65intex said:
Im also replacing the front coils on my car along with the spring seats and sway bar end links. I have read here that with the end links removed and the UCA down all the way you can slide the 620 springs in. Is this true?

Almost true, I think I had compress a little to get the springs in a 1966 and 1967. After cutting 1/2 to 3/4 coil, they slid right in after the method you mentioned.

Coil spring compressor

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