Cold Air Sensor

It's BS...

What it is, is a resistor that you splice into your Intake Air Temperature sensor wiring that tells the computer the air coming in is actually cooler than it actually is so it in theory compensates by adding more timing and your car will make more power...but it doesn't really work like that...


And BTW, how do you figure you have 310rwhp with your mods?

why would you want to fool the computer, it is trying to keep you from F'ing up your engine! You start beating a heat soaked engine with an invalid IAT temp and you will get detonation, spark blowout or worse. Just like slapping on some intakes with a reconfigured MAF, the computer gets fooled, you start running dangerously lean but you ring up a few more HP on the dyno?
Who thinks this sh1t up, nobody concerned with your property and engine, only the green your sitting on.

- 04_snake

Run away !!!

Send me your money instead !!

Wouldn't it be counter productive anyway.

The reason cooler air gives more power is because....IT IS COOLER AIR!!!! and thus more dense.

also, I was told that the temp sensor is generic and simply is looking for high temps to add fuel at extremely high temps. It cannot add power, just protect from detonation.

This is only what I heard now, but I had inquired about it in the past.

sawman70 said:

Wouldn't it be counter productive anyway.

The reason cooler air gives more power is because....IT IS COOLER AIR!!!! and thus more dense.

also, I was told that the temp sensor is generic and simply is looking for high temps to add fuel at extremely high temps. It cannot add power, just protect from detonation.

This is only what I heard now, but I had inquired about it in the past.

Click to expand...

Kinda, but no. Cooler air is more dense, thus, the engine can handle a higher degree of timing. The ATS is a simple thermistor that converts the temp reading to a voltage reading. Based on this voltage reading, the pcm will add timing at cooler temps.

The resistor / Ebay POS will modify voltage so that the pcm sees cooler temps than is really coming in.

This can be dangerous, as you are adding timing where timing shouldn't be added. But there is another school of thought that the factory went on the conservative side with timing and that you can add in a degree or two with no detrimental affects and possibly adding power (like a timing adjuster).

You can play with it on the dyno using different Ohm resistors starting with 100 Ohm if I remember correctly.

I wouldn't recommend it personally, but some want to squeeze every 1-2 HP extra that they can.