Common Mustang Performance Talk

D

Deleted member 38176

Oct 4, 2015

#1

• Oct 4, 2015

• #1

A lot of the threads here lately are lacking in common mustang performance tech. Post some useful SN95 performance info here so that we all can discuss

 

Last edited by a moderator: Oct 6, 2015

dro420

New Member

Oct 4, 2015

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Oct 4, 2015

#2

• Oct 4, 2015

• #2

How can I fix this ? It's leaking motor oil between the trans and motor

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 4, 2015

#3

• Oct 4, 2015

• #3

It could be the rear main seal, the valve covers (gaskets), or from the heads. If that is the rear main seal then you have to drop the trans and replace the seal with a new one. If it is a valve cover or the valve cover gasket then that is an easy fix...just get new gaskets and/or valve covers depending on which is the problem. Hopefully it isn't the head gasket )I doubt it would be). But try to determine where exactly the oil is coming from. Get a mirror and try to see behind the engine from the top...look for oil. And if you can get your hand back there from the top, then try to feel for oil. Hopefully it is something as simple as the valve cover gasket. But if it is the rear mains seal, you should be able to get it replaced within a few hours if you have a lift, trans jack, and power tools...and know how and skill.

 

Puggy_sd455

Active Member

May 10, 2015

136

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Marion Ohio

Oct 4, 2015

#4

• Oct 4, 2015

• #4

No hate please I know you think of my car as freeroaming garbage... But I do have a question... My original plans for my motor were to PI swap it, do some head work, and install some stage 2 N/A cams with a tune more or less working around the K.I.S.S. methodology... But after having the car for a wile i'm putting serious thoughts into getting a supercharger... I know that most types of boost like stock cams or cams designed to work with zed type of boost so stage 2 N/A cams would just not workout... BUT its going to be a good long time before I could ever get a complete supercharger setup and i'd like a bit more grunt in the mean time and I hear that the Comp Cams stage 1 cams are more like RV cams so i'm guessing my question would be are the stage 1 cams ok to run with a supercharger??? Like I said it will be a long time if ever before I could peace together a supercharger and the stage 1's should give me a nice lowend TQ curve wile I wait... OR???

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 4, 2015

#5

• Oct 4, 2015

• #5

Are you talking about Comp Cams stage 1 cams for NPI heads? Or their cams for PI heads? Because they make a set for NPI AND for PI.

 

Puggy_sd455

Active Member

May 10, 2015

136

41

38

Marion Ohio

Oct 4, 2015

#6

• Oct 4, 2015

• #6

Comp Cams stage 1 cams for PI i'm still doing the PI swap

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 4, 2015

#7

• Oct 4, 2015

• #7

Ok I got confused, lol, sorry. So those cams, with the extra compression from the PI swap, and with forced induction, might be a bit too much. I would just stick with the PI cams. Look at it this way, within the limits of the stock internals, you will be limited to about 450 hp max to the wheels. You can make that easily with the PI swap, headers, and forced induction on stock cams. So you don't actually need those stage 1 cams. Although it will allow you to make more hp at lower boost levels, you still will be limited to what you can do. And even if you get the tune right, it is possible that the cams and boost and the extra compression will be too much for the valve springs anyway. Save the cam stuff for a forged internal engine build. And at that point you'll wanna go with ported heads as well. But for now, the PI swap with about 8-10 psi and headers will put you at about what that short block can safely handle. At least that is my take on it.

 

Puggy_sd455

Active Member

May 10, 2015

136

41

38

Marion Ohio

Oct 4, 2015

#8

• Oct 4, 2015

• #8

My original thoughts were to swap the PI heads onto the NPI motor but considering the mileage on my motor i'm actually just going to buy the hole PI motor and shove in there's a junkyard near me that will sell me one with no core for $350 witch would be cheaper than peacing it together so I wont have the bump in comp. And I was also planing on getting the heads P&P, with stainless valves, and beehive springs before doing the swap with or W/O the supercharger...

Thanks for the info

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 5, 2015

#9

• Oct 5, 2015

• #9

Might as well do a forged bottom end while you're at it...especially if the engine will be out of the car.Just tear it down, have it machined, get your internals, and start building it. Take your time with it. But even if you don't go that route, that combination would be great NA and a beast with forced induction.

 

Puggy_sd455

Active Member

May 10, 2015

136

41

38

Marion Ohio

Oct 5, 2015

#10

• Oct 5, 2015

• #10

Hopefully ill have the motor around Christmas time and have it in shortly after but between now and thin iv got a lot of other stuff to do both with the car and around the house... Then I can start looking into supercharging or whatever but if stock internals are fine with X amount of boost ill probably peace that together over this winter and spring and run it as is and if I decide I want more I can gather up forged internals this summer and build it next winter... BUT its a ever evolving kinda thing...

 

dro420

New Member

Oct 4, 2015

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1

Oct 5, 2015

#11

• Oct 5, 2015

• #11

On the picture as you can see the two green dots there you can see the transmission connected close to the motor oil pan well ... that's where it's dripping motor oil on the bottom of my engine

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

1,135

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Oct 5, 2015

#12

• Oct 5, 2015

• #12

Oh wow. Yea I'm gonna say it is more than likely either the oil pan gasket or the rear main seal.

 

Pirate907

New Member

Oct 6, 2015

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Oct 6, 2015

#13

• Oct 6, 2015

• #13

i have an 01 with a V6 that i want to swap out with a 86 5.0 any idea what extra parts i would need to purchase to make this work?

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 6, 2015

#14

• Oct 6, 2015

• #14

Engine, ECU, wiring harnesses, exhaust pieces, and other little odds and ends. Is the engine fully dressed?

 

Pirate907

New Member

Oct 6, 2015

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Oct 6, 2015

#15

• Oct 6, 2015

• #15

Three50won said:

Engine, ECU, wiring harnesses, exhaust pieces, and other little odds and ends. Is the engine fully dressed?

Click to expand...

Yes it's fully dressed and I have the transmission to go with it. I had planned on doing better exhaust anyways I wasn't sure what all I would need to swap out I can't seem to find much info on a swap like this and don't want to end up finding it won't work halfway thru

 

D

Deleted member 38176

Oct 7, 2015

#16

• Oct 7, 2015

• #16

Wow mods edited the f*** out of my thread

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 7, 2015

#17

• Oct 7, 2015

• #17

Pirate907 said:

Yes it's fully dressed and I have the transmission to go with it. I had planned on doing better exhaust anyways I wasn't sure what all I would need to swap out I can't seem to find much info on a swap like this and don't want to end up finding it won't work halfway thru

Click to expand...

Well along the way there will be hiccups and such but I think for the most part you have everything you're gonna need...at least the basic stuff anyway.

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 7, 2015

#18

• Oct 7, 2015

• #18

Nightfire said:

Wow mods edited the f*** out of my thread

Click to expand...

Yea they did. Even the title of the thread it looks like, lol!! Maybe someone reported it or something??