CompCams Question

FIRE IT UP

New Member
Jan 10, 2009
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I'm trying to get my new cam choice pinned down...many people say just to go with the CompCams StageII NSR (no springs required)...but all the research I do keeps leading me back to the StageII VSR (valve springs required)....I'm wondering if anyone's had any experience with either of these? I'm thinking the NSR version would be somewhat of a waste of time considering the money spent...CAN ANYONE HELP ME DECIDE??? hehe thanks a lot! :D:SNSign:
 
I also have a question of my own. under the DESCRIPTION is says....

DESCRIPTION:

SOHC-(Stage 1) Great upgrade for stock engine. Solid power gains above 4700 rpm, compatible with stock springs. Works with tuners, no computer re-tuning required.




Does that mean that you can just have them installed and no tuning required? or, can one get a e-mail tune from brenspeed for example.?
 
I also have a question of my own. under the DESCRIPTION is says....

DESCRIPTION:

SOHC-(Stage 1) Great upgrade for stock engine. Solid power gains above 4700 rpm, compatible with stock springs. Works with tuners, no computer re-tuning required.




Does that mean that you can just have them installed and no tuning required? or, can one get a e-mail tune from brenspeed for example.?

My understanding is that it doesn't require a tune, but a tune would show immense gains above and beyond that of the cam alone. Basically, it's "safe" without a tune.
 
my problem is that people have consistently told me to get either one or the other...when they tell me to do the spring upgrade they say its a superb upgrade with great sound and power gains...when they tell me to get the NSR they never say why...someone help!:hail2::SNSign:

p.s. i'm a five speed
 
I dunno if this is specifically true for the cams you're talking about, but in general a cam that requires springs to be replace with those that allow more travel will make more power because the profile can be customized further with the increased lift allowed (this is a very general statement that is application dependent, of course:rolleyes:)

Now, the real debate, is the extra power worth the extra cost of springs and the labor to install them (or your time). Only you can answer this question. From what I hear the comp NSR cams will get you about 25 HP on a bolt on car (no ported heads), where as the right cam from the right company with the right springs may get you closer to 40 HP, but at an added cost of the springs and hardware $450+, and the added cost of labor to install them (dunno how much that would be). Is that worth it to you? It's really just a personal decision on how much you want to spend and what you ultimately want to do.
Dan
 
alright thanks guys I appreciate the help...I guess my main concern was the spring upgrade, which after long debate with myself I've decided to get away from the spring req'd setup..that being said, if I'm not going for the springs or phaser upgrades, why not get a FRPP part instead..all the chat here has led me back to the OEM hot rod cams...thanks!:hail2:
 
It seems the FRPP hot rod cams are looking better all the time. Kevin MacDonald speaks highly of them. He's the king of 3 valve tuning. I have the BBR stage 2 cams and Manley springs. They run great. My son is going with the FRPP's and no springs.
 
You heard wrong. Over on modularfords this has been hashed out repeatedly. My son is considering the FRPP cams with his Procharger and he's had several respectable people speak highly of the hot rod cams with centrifugal blowers. Even the Thumper cams are being advertised all of the sudden for F/I too. This after Comp told me no. I know it's been tossed around about not using the FRPP cams with F/I, but the people who have done it are happy. That's not to say that blower cam wouldn't perform marginally better because they are designed around the use of boost, but they don't give the old school sound that most people want.
 
Does FRPP have a tech line? If not I would call comp cams and ask them, since they should be basically the same. Most of the break-in procedures I have seen have called for holding the engine at 2k-3k RPM for 20-30 minutes to allow for proper oiling of the cams while they go through the initial break-in. But that is for OHV engines, I don't know how it changes for OHC engines.
Dan
 
You heard wrong. Over on modularfords this has been hashed out repeatedly. My son is considering the FRPP cams with his Procharger and he's had several respectable people speak highly of the hot rod cams with centrifugal blowers. Even the Thumper cams are being advertised all of the sudden for F/I too. This after Comp told me no. I know it's been tossed around about not using the FRPP cams with F/I, but the people who have done it are happy. That's not to say that blower cam wouldn't perform marginally better because they are designed around the use of boost, but they don't give the old school sound that most people want.


Interesting... Im surprised w/ the shorter lsa's and not that much ex duration...

"For best performance with a blower you should look for a cam that has higher lift ( which hot rods do not have ) and longer duration on the exhaust side. Street performance with a blown engine is usually best with a cam that is ground with a 112 to 114 degree lobe separation (hot rod cams have less...). Blower cams can be typically run "straight up." Note that a blower has tendency to lessen the rough idle of radical cams."



R&D is still out on SO many mods for these cars, it wouldnt be the first time the 3v has zigged when it was expected to zag...
 
You are right about that. I think you may have misunderstood my point. Most people are buying cams for the sound and want to make a little power too. The FRPP cams will provide a decent power gain with F/I and give great old school idle too. You are absolutely right about the higher lift and lobe separation. Like my car is almost 500 to the wheels right now. If I would have put in straight up blower cams it would probably make 20-25 more hp (than my BBR cams) and we might be talking about my new hole in the block. I wanted old school idle and a good mid and upper range shot in the arm whih the BBR cams provided. True F/I cams would have disappointed my need for what I miss from the old days (great idle) and maybe cause my engine to pop.