basically, you start the car and hear if it knocks. the car is drivable but it will end up blowing.
Complete Engine Teardown
- Thread starter tomustang
- Start date
Just finished building mine (yes....all by myself you big sissy 
) and it’s not nearly as intimidating as some people make it out to be. As a matter of fact, I’ll even go one further and say it was easier to build than my old 5.0L OHV.
As far as what you should replace…..timing chains should be mandatory. They’re cheap and they stretch over time and there’s really no reason not to. Upgrading to the FRPP High Volume oil pump M-6600-D46 would also be a good move to ensure adequate oiling in the future. Guides and gears can be judged for wear once you get the engine apart, but even if you do need to replace them, I was able to do so, on mine for about $300.00 Canadian.
If you can afford to do a proper P&P to the heads, now would be the time or you could attempt it on your own if you've got any skill with a die grinder (yup...ported and polished my heads myself too
). At the very least a fresh valve job should be manditory. Having that shop manual sure did come in handy, but once you've had one together, it's really not too tough. Just take your time. 
EDIT
Just remembered you've got a Cobra now and not your GT
. You probably already have the high-volume pump, but just check the numbers anyway to be certain.
) and it’s not nearly as intimidating as some people make it out to be. As a matter of fact, I’ll even go one further and say it was easier to build than my old 5.0L OHV. As far as what you should replace…..timing chains should be mandatory. They’re cheap and they stretch over time and there’s really no reason not to. Upgrading to the FRPP High Volume oil pump M-6600-D46 would also be a good move to ensure adequate oiling in the future. Guides and gears can be judged for wear once you get the engine apart, but even if you do need to replace them, I was able to do so, on mine for about $300.00 Canadian.
If you can afford to do a proper P&P to the heads, now would be the time or you could attempt it on your own if you've got any skill with a die grinder (yup...ported and polished my heads myself too
). At the very least a fresh valve job should be manditory. Having that shop manual sure did come in handy, but once you've had one together, it's really not too tough. Just take your time. EDIT
Just remembered you've got a Cobra now and not your GT
if i had the time and space i'd do the porting but too bad for me.
it would be cool to do by myself but I don't have the tools for checking the block/internals.
it would be cool to do by myself but I don't have the tools for checking the block/internals.
Dan_Soprano
15 Year Member
Dan_Soprano
15 Year Member
ugh. I know the feeling!!tomustang said:hell no, still making room for disassembly and gathering info
I can't afford the 304 big bore 
but if i throw on a vortec SQ i'll be happy with no bolt-on's
eh i don't have any ideas for the engine yet, i'm still debating on the IRS or TA setup. (out of all people thinking about the suspension)
but if i throw on a vortec SQ i'll be happy with no bolt-on's eh i don't have any ideas for the engine yet, i'm still debating on the IRS or TA setup. (out of all people thinking about the suspension)
Ever consider going the same route that tonto77 did http://www.proturbokits.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=125? It’s a lot more than the SQ, but this baby sure would look sexy under the hood of your snake.....tomustang said:I can't afford the 304 big bore
Gearbanger 101 said:Just finished building mine (yes....all by myself you big sissy
what would you say are the hard/PITA parts?
Nothing about it was really had per say. Although putting cam rollers in without the proper tool to compress the springs and lining them up was kind of a PITA and staring at the timing chains before assembly was a little intimidating at first, but I had a shop manual to walk me through it and it worked out fine. Otherwise, it was a piece of cake. The tolerances are a little tighter than a 302 by comparison, but not by a lot and not to the extent that a lot of people are speculating on. Forged pistons are going to fit a little "looser" in the cylinder than a cast piston, no matter what. It's the nature of the piston. I just made sure I had my feeler blades handy and a file to properly gap the rings and they went in slick as snot. I didn't even need to give my block an overbore. All it took was a fresh hone and it was ready to go.
This is where I got my rotating assembly if you’re trying to work up the nerve to do it yourself. http://www.modularperformance.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MP&Category_Code=EK
This is where I got my rotating assembly if you’re trying to work up the nerve to do it yourself.
http://www.modularperformance.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MP&Category_Code=EK
Gearbanger 101 said:This is where I got my rotating assembly if you’re trying to work up the nerve to do it yourself.
Great site! That would be a helluva place to have a shopping spree.
i won't be tearing up the valvetrain at all, i was blind on the timing chain install last time cause i didn't mark them
i already got the feeler gauges.....i'm stomaching up to it, got a good how-to on honing?
i already got the feeler gauges.....i'm stomaching up to it, got a good how-to on honing?
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