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  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-

Component Speaker Setup

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cruisinketch
  • Start date Start date Mar 10, 2009
C

Cruisinketch

New Member
May 9, 2008
1
0
2
White Marsh, MD
Mar 10, 2009
#1
  • Mar 10, 2009
  • #1
I have a ’09 Mustang GT convertible with a Shaker 500 system for your information. I am torn on what components to buy. Regardless, I will be buying the new Kenwood eXcelon 9140 when it’s released. I also already have a JL Audio HD 750/1 amplifier. I am pretty set on buying the JL Audio Stealthbox with the 13.5 W6v2 to be pushed by my amp. Listed below are the components I’m looking at.

1. Focal 165K3P rated max power of 400 watts pushed by a JL Audio HD 600/4 (300x2)
2. Focal 165V3E rated max power of 160 watts pushed by a JL AudioG2250 (125x2)

My issue is that I like both sets of the three-way speakers. But it would be nicer to have matching amps in my trunk than a mix match of JL equipment. If I could push #2 with the HD 600/4 it would be great but it’s way too powerful.

So #1 is a natural choice but a much bigger headache. I would be spending double the money and I would have to create so many adapters for this install. The top speaker locations would have to be adapted to fit a 6.5” mid and the 8” woofer location would have to be adapted hold a 6.5” sub. Then on top of that, I would have to cut a hole for the tweeter.

With #2, the speakers are half the price of option #1. Then if I go with the G2250 amp, I would save another 40% at least. Not to mention I would only have to create one adapter. The 8” sub will be replaced with a 6.5”. I would be able to use the original bracket installed in the top of the door for the 4” mid and 1” tweeter if the 2009 model still has the same bracket of the 2006 Mustang. I haven’t checked it yet but I don’t think they switched my year’s model to a straight 5x7 coaxial.

What do you guys think?
Is it worth paying double just to have the amps match in the back?
Is it worth the headache of creating several adapters to install the better model of Focal’s?

I haven’t heard the Focal 165K3P yet but I do like the Focal 165V3E. If anybody has heard the difference between the two sets, please give me some advice.

Thanks in advance!
 

DiMora

New Member
Dec 19, 2008
59
0
0
Mar 10, 2009
#2
  • Mar 10, 2009
  • #2
Cruisinketch said:
I have a ’09 Mustang GT convertible with a Shaker 500 system for your information. I am torn on what components to buy. Regardless, I will be buying the new Kenwood eXcelon 9140 when it’s released. I also already have a JL Audio HD 750/1 amplifier. I am pretty set on buying the JL Audio Stealthbox with the 13.5 W6v2 to be pushed by my amp. Listed below are the components I’m looking at.

1. Focal 165K3P rated max power of 400 watts pushed by a JL Audio HD 600/4 (300x2)
2. Focal 165V3E rated max power of 160 watts pushed by a JL AudioG2250 (125x2)

My issue is that I like both sets of the three-way speakers. But it would be nicer to have matching amps in my trunk than a mix match of JL equipment. If I could push #2 with the HD 600/4 it would be great but it’s way too powerful.

So #1 is a natural choice but a much bigger headache. I would be spending double the money and I would have to create so many adapters for this install. The top speaker locations would have to be adapted to fit a 6.5” mid and the 8” woofer location would have to be adapted hold a 6.5” sub. Then on top of that, I would have to cut a hole for the tweeter.

With #2, the speakers are half the price of option #1. Then if I go with the G2250 amp, I would save another 40% at least. Not to mention I would only have to create one adapter. The 8” sub will be replaced with a 6.5”. I would be able to use the original bracket installed in the top of the door for the 4” mid and 1” tweeter if the 2009 model still has the same bracket of the 2006 Mustang. I haven’t checked it yet but I don’t think they switched my year’s model to a straight 5x7 coaxial.

What do you guys think?
Is it worth paying double to have just to have the amps match in the back?
Is it worth the headache of creating several adapters to install the better model of Focal’s?

I haven’t heard the Focal 165K3P yet but I do like the Focal 165V3E. If anybody has heard the difference between the two sets, please give me some advice.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...


I thought long and hard about what to do as well. In the end, I put some Boston Acoustics SL80's in the stock upper locations and kept the factory 8" driven by the factory shaker amp in the woofer location.

The SL-80's are a true component set, with a 5.25 mid and a dedicated tweeter, but on a plate setup. There around $160 on ebay.

Not as good as the focals, but a nice clean install and they sound nice.

I am driving them with head unit power; I have lots of amps (eclipse, soundstream, Lanzar, and an Infinity) and am leaning toward putting the Eclipse amp in there (4 channel) as it plays nice and clean. Eventually, I may throw another amp in (2 channel) dedicated to the door subs and upgrade the door subs to a better driver. I definitely want to keep the 8 inch door subs - I love that front originating pant-leg rattling mid-bass.

I added a Shaker 1000 sub to the trunk (Ebay) and wired it into my Eclipse head unit. It is driven by factory Shaker 1000 amps. I like the nice clean box that OEM provides, but the drivers are weak and so are the sub amps. I think I might add some Dayton Audio Titanic MKIII's in the factory mount holes and a Lanzar class D with remote bass control. Might even throw in one of my old school audiocontrol epicenters.
 
C

Cruisinketch

New Member
May 9, 2008
1
0
2
White Marsh, MD
Apr 5, 2009
#3
  • Apr 5, 2009
  • #3
Does anybody else have something they can add?
 

Emay

Member
Oct 4, 2006
228
1
18
South Elgin, IL
Apr 6, 2009
#4
  • Apr 6, 2009
  • #4
The 8's in the doors are sub par dual voice coil subs. If your going to drive them with anything, then swap them out for a shallow mount sub. They quickly become useless with any sort of power.

Component sets are personal preference thing, aside from simply agreeing you should swap the oem's out, I won't add in any more manufacturers. Everyone's ears are different so pick what works for you, and don't bypass doing anything to lessen the work. Put in what you want, otherwise you'll finish the job and always have the "What if's" in the back of your mind.
 
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