Compress Front Caliper Pistons
- Thread starter Kilgore Trout
- Start date
i always force it back with the cap off the master cyl. just bleed the air lines when you're done
Here is what the Bullitt Archive has to say...
NOTE: Just to be safe when compressing the pistons back into the caliper, instead of forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS unit and the Master Cylinder, first install a hose on the bleed screw, so it can drain into a jar and then loosen the bleeder. This way you are just pushing the fluid out instead of backwards through the system. Don't forget to tight the bleeder screw after the pistons have been seated.
Forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage some types of systems. I was not able to verify that ours would be damaged but why take the chance.
NOTE: Just to be safe when compressing the pistons back into the caliper, instead of forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS unit and the Master Cylinder, first install a hose on the bleed screw, so it can drain into a jar and then loosen the bleeder. This way you are just pushing the fluid out instead of backwards through the system. Don't forget to tight the bleeder screw after the pistons have been seated.
Forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage some types of systems. I was not able to verify that ours would be damaged but why take the chance.
ToplessStang
Member
Just take the cap off the master and push the pistons back in using the old pad or a block of wood not to damge the pistons. There is NO need to bleed anything as you are not opening the system. You will not damage anything.
Trust me on this.
Trust me on this.
Pearl02
Member
Kilgore Trout said:
I read that same thing. I took that advice and somehow got air in the line. I had to bleed it back out. I think I'll go back to the old way of doing it next time. Pearl02.
ToplessStang
Member
If it makes you feel better, here is what Ford says and I quote:
" Use a wood block or used pad to protect pistons and boots.
Compress the caliper pistons."
That's it.
" Use a wood block or used pad to protect pistons and boots.
Compress the caliper pistons."
That's it.
Well I am all done now with the front brakes now. I did not open the brake fluid system.
I took the rotors to a shop and had them re-surfaced for $20 each, sooooo smooth now
I got cheap Duralast pads for $24.
Borrowed a cool brake caliper compression tool from AutoZone, that thing is awesome!
Brakes are so much better now and no pulsing when I hit the brakes
Total cost $64
Here's the tool, kinda hard to see it in this crappy pic from a Google search:
View attachment 483271
I took the rotors to a shop and had them re-surfaced for $20 each, sooooo smooth now
I got cheap Duralast pads for $24.
Borrowed a cool brake caliper compression tool from AutoZone, that thing is awesome!
Brakes are so much better now and no pulsing when I hit the brakes
Total cost $64
Here's the tool, kinda hard to see it in this crappy pic from a Google search:
View attachment 483271
steveb24
New Member
every brake job I have done I did with either a big pair of channel locks to compress the caliper ( if it's dual piston like a mustang then you leave the old pad in and use the channel lock in the middle of the old pad) or with the correct tool for the twist in kind.
I have never have had to open the bleeders, if you need to open the bleeders to get them to compress then you need new calipers.
so NO you do not have to open the bleeders while compressing the caliper and NO you don't have to bleed them after your done.
I have never have had to open the bleeders, if you need to open the bleeders to get them to compress then you need new calipers.
so NO you do not have to open the bleeders while compressing the caliper and NO you don't have to bleed them after your done.
SunburstGoldGT
New Member
I just did my brakes also on the front, and used the old brake pad in the caliper, then pushed with channel locks. I just took of the cap and wrapped a rag around it cause it spilled some fluid. I used new rotors though they were only 33 dollars and used motorcraft pads.
Kilgore Trout said:Well, what I was unsure of is whether forcing fluid back through the ABS module would damage the ABS module. Now I know the answer
it's always better to ask then to find out the hard way
DerekStangGT said:
ohh one last thing. remember to pump the brakes before you start up and drive away
The question was whether the ABS unit would be damaged by fluid being forced through it in the wrong direction. It had absolutely nothing to do with air in the lines.DerekStangGT said:
Also, this is the first time I did my Mustang. I have done many of my Hondas and I just used my bare hands to compress the piston back in
no tool needed...ONCE AGAIN I will post the text that I already posted from the Bullitt Archive:
NOTE: Just to be safe when compressing the pistons back into the caliper, instead of forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS unit and the Master Cylinder, first install a hose on the bleed screw, so it can drain into a jar and then loosen the bleeder. This way you are just pushing the fluid out instead of backwards through the system. Don't forget to tight the bleeder screw after the pistons have been seated.
Forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage some types of systems. I was not able to verify that ours would be damaged but why take the chance.
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