Compress Front Caliper Pistons

Kilgore Trout · Mar 18, 2006

Do I have to open the bleeders to do this or is it safe to force fluid backwards through the lines?

tomustang · Mar 18, 2006

i always force it back with the cap off the master cyl. just bleed the air lines when you're done

Kilgore Trout · Mar 18, 2006

Here is what the Bullitt Archive has to say...

NOTE: Just to be safe when compressing the pistons back into the caliper, instead of forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS unit and the Master Cylinder, first install a hose on the bleed screw, so it can drain into a jar and then loosen the bleeder. This way you are just pushing the fluid out instead of backwards through the system. Don't forget to tight the bleeder screw after the pistons have been seated.

Forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage some types of systems. I was not able to verify that ours would be damaged but why take the chance.

ToplessStang · Mar 18, 2006

Just take the cap off the master and push the pistons back in using the old pad or a block of wood not to damge the pistons. There is NO need to bleed anything as you are not opening the system. You will not damage anything.

Trust me on this.

Pearl02 · Mar 18, 2006

Kilgore Trout said:
Here is what the Bullitt Archive has to say...

NOTE: Just to be safe when compressing the pistons back into the caliper, instead of forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS unit and the Master Cylinder, first install a hose on the bleed screw, so it can drain into a jar and then loosen the bleeder. This way you are just pushing the fluid out instead of backwards through the system. Don't forget to tight the bleeder screw after the pistons have been seated.

Forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage some types of systems. I was not able to verify that ours would be damaged but why take the chance.

I read that same thing. I took that advice and somehow got air in the line. I had to bleed it back out. I think I'll go back to the old way of doing it next time. Pearl02.

ToplessStang · Mar 18, 2006

If it makes you feel better, here is what Ford says and I quote:

" Use a wood block or used pad to protect pistons and boots.

Compress the caliper pistons."

That's it.

Kilgore Trout · Mar 18, 2006

Well I am all done now with the front brakes now. I did not open the brake fluid system.

I took the rotors to a shop and had them re-surfaced for $20 each, sooooo smooth now

I got cheap Duralast pads for $24.

Borrowed a cool brake caliper compression tool from AutoZone, that thing is awesome!

Brakes are so much better now and no pulsing when I hit the brakes

Total cost $64

Here's the tool, kinda hard to see it in this crappy pic from a Google search:
View attachment 483271

steveb24 · Mar 18, 2006

is it the same thing for the rear brakes? i need new pads in the back

Kilgore Trout · Mar 18, 2006

The back ones screw in. The brake caliper compression tool kit I borrowed from AutoZone could handle that as well

Mike97gt · Mar 18, 2006

every brake job I have done I did with either a big pair of channel locks to compress the caliper ( if it's dual piston like a mustang then you leave the old pad in and use the channel lock in the middle of the old pad) or with the correct tool for the twist in kind.

I have never have had to open the bleeders, if you need to open the bleeders to get them to compress then you need new calipers.

so NO you do not have to open the bleeders while compressing the caliper and NO you don't have to bleed them after your done.

Kilgore Trout · Mar 18, 2006

Well, what I was unsure of is whether forcing fluid back through the ABS module would damage the ABS module. Now I know the answer

Superhereaux · Mar 18, 2006

svttech76 said:
every brake job I have done I did with either a big pair of channel locks to compress the caliper or with the correct tool for the twist in kind.

same here

SunburstGoldGT · Mar 18, 2006

I just did my brakes also on the front, and used the old brake pad in the caliper, then pushed with channel locks. I just took of the cap and wrapped a rag around it cause it spilled some fluid. I used new rotors though they were only 33 dollars and used motorcraft pads.

Mike97gt · Mar 18, 2006

Kilgore Trout said:
Well, what I was unsure of is whether forcing fluid back through the ABS module would damage the ABS module. Now I know the answer

it's always better to ask then to find out the hard way

DerekStangGT · Mar 18, 2006

svttech76 said:
every brake job I have done I did with either a big pair of channel locks to compress the caliper ( if it's dual piston like a mustang then you leave the old pad in and use the channel lock in the middle of the old pad) or with the correct tool for the twist in kind.

I have never have had to open the bleeders, if you need to open the bleeders to get them to compress then you need new calipers.

so NO you do not have to open the bleeders while compressing the caliper and NO you don't have to bleed them after your done.

i didnt find this thread soon enough to add to it, but i would have just quoted what SVTTECH said anyway. logically thinking, theres no way air can get into the system by compressing the piston at the caliper.

Mike97gt · Mar 18, 2006

DerekStangGT said:
i didnt find this thread soon enough to add to it, but i would have just quoted what SVTTECH said anyway. logically thinking, theres no way air can get into the system by compressing the piston at the caliper.

ohh one last thing. remember to pump the brakes before you start up and drive away

DerekStangGT · Mar 19, 2006

svttech76 said:
ohh one last thing. remember to pump the brakes before you start up and drive away

lol, good one. our shop still has a "patch job" in the wall from some stupid "tech" who neglected that last step

Kilgore Trout · Mar 19, 2006

DerekStangGT said:
i didnt find this thread soon enough to add to it, but i would have just quoted what SVTTECH said anyway. logically thinking, theres no way air can get into the system by compressing the piston at the caliper.

The question was whether the ABS unit would be damaged by fluid being forced through it in the wrong direction. It had absolutely nothing to do with air in the lines.

Also, this is the first time I did my Mustang. I have done many of my Hondas and I just used my bare hands to compress the piston back in no tool needed...

ONCE AGAIN I will post the text that I already posted from the Bullitt Archive:
NOTE: Just to be safe when compressing the pistons back into the caliper, instead of forcing the fluid backwards through the ABS unit and the Master Cylinder, first install a hose on the bleed screw, so it can drain into a jar and then loosen the bleeder. This way you are just pushing the fluid out instead of backwards through the system. Don't forget to tight the bleeder screw after the pistons have been seated.

Forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage some types of systems. I was not able to verify that ours would be damaged but why take the chance.

46gtsblown · Mar 19, 2006

Please remember it is good policy to replace your fluid every 2 years to remove moisture that break fluid loves so much. This will prevent corrosion in the break system.
No I know most people don't but there you go....

Dwayne

Kilgore Trout · Mar 19, 2006

Yeah, I know... Doing it today. Did it two years ago...

Compress Front Caliper Pistons

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