Compression Test Results= Tired 5.0

poboys 94

Member
Dec 5, 2006
115
2
18
St. Louis Mo.
135-#4 8-122
135 -3 7-128
130-2 6-135
135-1 5-130
I had over 145 lbs after head gaskets 2 years ago.And she's blowin blue smoke at wot, the oil catcher in between the pcv valve is half full every 2-3 days. Still looking for a short block :rolleyes:
 
  • Sponsors (?)


reddy351

5 Year Member
Jun 13, 2006
497
5
28
Columbus, Ohio
Looks like your shortblock is fine. I'd be looking at a valve job, at most. Oil burning could be from valve seals not sealing.

Check it warm or with some oil sprayed into the cylinders to make sure it's not the rings. (Very consistant across the board, though.)
 

poboys 94

Member
Dec 5, 2006
115
2
18
St. Louis Mo.
Looks like your shortblock is fine. I'd be looking at a valve job, at most. Oil burning could be from valve seals not sealing.

Check it warm or with some oil sprayed into the cylinders to make sure it's not the rings. (Very consistant across the board, though.)

I checked it at temp, fuel off, throttle blade closed,( it made no difference opened) didnt squirt oil in the cyls. I did a cylinder balance test and #s 2 and 3 were suspect, but it looks like 7-8 are weak. Im thinking weak rings , too much blowby.
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
16
49
Ashley, Ohio
I am having a similar issue poboys 94.

On mine, #3 & 7 cylinder plugs are ghost white and I am also blowing smoke on initial start-up and WOT.

I was looking into a DDS shortblock, have you found any good places to buy a shortblock?
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
0
66
st.louis mo 314
I lost 33% on 3 or 4 and the other was not that great either. At first thought it was a HG issue since two cyl. close to one another were low. NOPE...it all was the result of a slight n2o backfire. I thought I busted the ringland.

mine was more of a fuel not getting burned from the loss of comp. I had the heads gone over (this was before they were ported) when I replaced the HG and still had the issue. I wanted to rule out anything except the shortblock. At anything more than 3/4 throt it just dumped black exh. the bumper got a nasty $h!t stain looking buildup on the bumper by that sides tailpipe.

I took apart the shortblock after I pulled it. You know how you kind have to tap out the pistons once undone from the crank? Well the cyl. that was 33% down litterally just fell out of the block after I took out the last rod bolt...fell right out and hit my foot...:rlaugh: was kinda stained from blowby but otherwise not a scratch...I guess the rings just got too wore down.

I replaced the shortblock with a DSS pro bullit 306 after going over machine work, parts, time, assem. hardware, ect. The DSS was just a good deal. I am VERY pleased with the quality and work of the shortblock.

I would check the heads out either way just to be sure...you have to pull them no matter what so maybe pull them and have them looked at before pulling the trigger on a new shortblock...unless your looking for an excuse for a new shortblock then I say be 100% sure its not the shortblock and start off fresh with that as well :D

Good luck either way.
 

poboys 94

Member
Dec 5, 2006
115
2
18
St. Louis Mo.
I am having a similar issue poboys 94.

On mine, #3 & 7 cylinder plugs are ghost white and I am also blowing smoke on initial start-up and WOT.

I was looking into a DDS shortblock, have you found any good places to buy a shortblock?
A few guys on here gave me some places to contact which were impressive, and I have one local machine shop to call on this week because Im thinking of doing it myself and see what the difference will be cost wise. My plugs are not oil fouled either, it hasnt got that bad yet, but its smokes like a beater when it revs up high:mad:
 

poboys 94

Member
Dec 5, 2006
115
2
18
St. Louis Mo.
I lost 33% on 3 or 4 and the other was not that great either. At first thought it was a HG issue since two cyl. close to one another were low. NOPE...it all was the result of a slight n2o backfire. I thought I busted the ringland.

mine was more of a fuel not getting burned from the loss of comp. I had the heads gone over (this was before they were ported) when I replaced the HG and still had the issue. I wanted to rule out anything except the shortblock. At anything more than 3/4 throt it just dumped black exh. the bumper got a nasty $h!t stain looking buildup on the bumper by that sides tailpipe.

I took apart the shortblock after I pulled it. You know how you kind have to tap out the pistons once undone from the crank? Well the cyl. that was 33% down litterally just fell out of the block after I took out the last rod bolt...fell right out and hit my foot...:rlaugh: was kinda stained from blowby but otherwise not a scratch...I guess the rings just got too wore down.

I replaced the shortblock with a DSS pro bullit 306 after going over machine work, parts, time, assem. hardware, ect. The DSS was just a good deal. I am VERY pleased with the quality and work of the shortblock.

I would check the heads out either way just to be sure...you have to pull them no matter what so maybe pull them and have them looked at before pulling the trigger on a new shortblock...unless your looking for an excuse for a new shortblock then I say be 100% sure its not the shortblock and start off fresh with that as well :D

Good luck either way.

Im considering this as a pretty good excuse for doing the short block:D I got the wife sold on it, just like a customer:nice: seeing the smoke and comp test results did it :rlaugh: The only question is how much to spend, a 306 would be good and I could still use my afr 165s, after a valve job of course, but I want more cubes and that would mean possibly a larger set of heads, so Im thinking of installing my own stroker kit and save some $ :shrug: Still thinking of which way to go, :rolleyes:
 

rio95

Member
Nov 18, 2003
829
1
17
Grand Rapids, MI
As long as you'll be satisified with the power, do a 331 or 347 and just keep your heads unless you get a good deal on a set of 185's or something. I would get the block machined, bearing pressed in and then assemble the rotating assembly. Altough it depends on how much money I'd be saving. If it was like $300 or less for them to install the rotating assembly, it would be tempting not to mess with it.
 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,690
0
56
Republic, MO
My car dropped to 120s (115 on a few) across the board. I drove it for a year after that.... kept upgrading other parts of the car to run 14.0s.... and still ran 12.7s on the 125 shot. Then one day... it just lost power. No smoke, ran and idled fine. I should have done a compression check again, but we pretty well knew the rings were done. :D