Computer/Sensor

[JamesBaumann]

Damn I wish I knew something about automotive computers. Well, my problem was what I thought to be my MAP sensor. When it was plugged in it idled high and misfired, so I unplugged it and it idled at the perfect speed and ran smooth as glass. So, a couple days after I went to a local auto wreckers and pulled out a MAP sensor from an 88 Mustang to swap into mine. Well, the new sensor is in now and I still have the same problem. It seems to idle a little better with the new sensor in, but it still misfires a little. So, today I thought I'd unplug my new MAP sensor and see if the same thing happened. Sure enough, I unplugged the sensor and it idles smooth as can be. So, I'm assuming that it has got to be something else wrong with the computer. Could this be linked to the O2 sensor you figure? Anybody have any suggestions on what this could be? I'm pretty sure it is a computer problem of some sort, taking into consideration the above. Anyways, Im just going to keep trying things, it needs a lot of new parts anyway. But if anybody could lead me in any certain direction then that would be great.

 

[Stinger]

The vacuum line isn't plugged into the map is it? If so, remove it.

The JY map was probably bad as well.

Run codes...

 

[BlackPony2000]

could be another sensor that works in conjunction with the MAP. Get a manual and see how everything works...you can buy a scan tool for like 20 bucks... also it will tell you how to read codes without a scan tool, in the manual...all you need is an old analog volt meter...

 

[JamesBaumann]

The vacuum line isn't plugged into the map is it? If so, remove it.

The JY map was probably bad as well.

Run codes...

Yes, there is a vacuum line plugged into the MAP sensor. Remove it you say? Alright, I'll do that and see how it runs. Hopefully the JY MAP isn't bad as well because I really dont want to have to pay for a new one, there are incredibly expensive. $140Canadian for one down at Canadian Tire. I'm going to pull it for codes today and see what that gives me. However, I don't understand how pulling the vacuum line off of the MAP is going to fix this problem, but you know more than I do, so I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the response.

 

[JamesBaumann]

could be another sensor that works in conjunction with the MAP. Get a manual and see how everything works...you can buy a scan tool for like 20 bucks... also it will tell you how to read codes without a scan tool, in the manual...all you need is an old analog volt meter...

What's this manual you speak of called? Just a Chilton's or a Haynes? Or something different? Thanks.

 

[Stinger]

Well, it was just going to help figure out the problem...not necessarily fix it by removing the line.

Scanning for codes will tell you what is wrong.

 

[BlackPony2000]

Haynes..

 

[saleenx029]

Chilton's kicks Haynes azz IMO

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Chilton's kicks Haynes azz IMO

Hayness will work but Chiltons is the one to look for

Also either make or buy a code scanner so you can start learning to pull codes. There is a web site that has what the codes mean if you don't buy a scanner with them. I got a link some where if you want me to post it. This will be a lot cheaper than throwing parts at the car until you find the problem. EFI cars are a little intemadating at first but you get use to them. Everything I've done to my SVO is the first time I've done it including my head install ( usualy a just take a part and a friend bolts them on). Well I've replaced exhaust mainifolds with headers but not one with a turbo bolted to it

Good Luck

 

[BlackPony2000]

we all know that chilton rocks, but you can go down to any of you local autozone, advanced autos and pick up a haynes.. better yet got to the dealer and order a shop manual...you want to see a book that rocks...