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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

consistent overheating sn95

  • Thread starter Thread starter kain35m
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2010
K

kain35m

New Member
Dec 13, 2008
4
0
0
Apr 13, 2010
#1
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #1
I have a mostly stock 302 with head work, intake, h-pipe w/flowmaster 40's, 3.73's, and nitto nt05's not that it mostly means anything, I just know most of the time the first thing people ask is what mods are done. so, just to get it out there.

The problem: The car is overheating. I've replaced the (leaking) water pump, the (leaking) gasket...spacer...thing...between the water pump and the block..excuse me for not knowing what that is called...it's metal, the same width as the pump...whatever. I've replaced the radiator hoses, and flushed the system.

frankly, I keep saying "I" it was actually this retard mechanic that replaced all these things and solved the symptoms and didn't cure the "illness", now I'm left to figure it out on my own. I'm not made of money and will not take it to another mechanic for the same crap. So I'm asking for a little input if someone has more/different theories than I have...

My theories are these: I think that 1. The fan is faulty (motor blown)and therefore I need to know how to wire it to run anytime the engine is running. 2. Perhaps the radiator cap is not providing enough pressure and therefore gives a low boiling point to the already hot running car. The coolant boils, spills out, and subsequently overheats what is left. 3. Some sort of fault in the computer or wiring making the fan not activate.

I have a tendency to over-think. Who has ideas?
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
3,064
15
78
PA
Apr 13, 2010
#2
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #2
what thermostat do you have in it? do you have an aftermarket gauge that reports the temp accurately?

does the fan run at all? if you turn on the a/c it should start.
 
K

kain35m

New Member
Dec 13, 2008
4
0
0
Apr 13, 2010
#3
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #3
Going to check the a/c thing now. As far as I know, the gauge and sensor are both stock. I don't know what thermostat...oh, but it's whatever is stock...whatever that is...because he "replaced" that too. Not sure if he replaced it or just took it out. He's a nice guy, upon retrospect though, I'm not sure I should have trusted him. Oh well, live and learn.
 
K

kain35m

New Member
Dec 13, 2008
4
0
0
Apr 13, 2010
#4
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #4
ok. went out and checked. let the car heat up and turned up the a/c to max...nothing. So, whadd'ya think?
 
B

bayellowstang

Member
Apr 25, 2003
462
0
17
Carlisle, PA
Apr 13, 2010
#5
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #5
Check the plug on your fan. There was a recall on some of these cars. Mine wasn't under the recall but it melted the fan connector and left the ground wire come out of the plug.

If the plug is good(not blackened or melted) then its either the CCM(the box connected to the overflow tank) or the fan motor is blown.

You're fan should run the whole time you have the A/C on the motor does not need to be warm at all.

I had to replace my plug, motor and the ccm. It then burnt out another motor(got it from junkyard so who knows) and I replaced the whole thing with a stand alone fan system.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Apr 13, 2010
#6
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #6
bayellowstang is correct, although the box is called the CCRM (constant control relay module). It controls power to the fan, A/C and I believe engine electrical power. It may be your problem, maybe not. The fan is the first thing to look at. With the fan unplugged, can you easily spin the fan blade with a finger? If not, it's seized up.

If you have a voltmeter, you can check if you're getting 12v power to the fan when the A/C is on. If not, you'll have to troubleshoot the CCRM. Get back to us on these troubleshooting steps that bayellostang and I listed, and we'll deal with CCRM troubleshooting if you need it.
 
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