Convert From Show To Go (seek Advice)

[DonMaximo]

I've pulled the engine to freshen up as well as make Brake and Clutch changes. I want to simplify my setup for X-cross and open road racing.

I no longer have use for all the amenities this original 1992 LX had and I'm in the process of labeling and removing unnecessary wires, bundles, and the like. Removing A/C & Heat heat controls, cores, etc. Converting over to Manual brakes, therefore no vacuum needed for booster or accessories.

I've completely replaced the stock ECU with an MS3-Pro, so all emissions, diagnostics ports, check engine, and EFI functions have been replaced. Since the car will be exempt from emissions testings, all related devices have been removed as well. I will however need to pass safety inspections.

I'm looking for some advice, guidance, or references which will help me reduce wiring to what I wish to keep. I intend to use breakers rather than fuses and relays where appropriate.

A rough list of what I intend to keep:
-all exterior lighting including directionals, hazards, and backup
- fuel pump & inertia switch (with a toggle switch to shutoff)
- electric windows / door locks
- convertible top motor
- re-purpose foglight switch for manual override for radiator fan
(for if/when a relay or some other failure should occur to thermostat control)
- Twin fan - thermostatically controlled - on a relay
- horn
- alternator
- All EFI sensors/actuators
- Wiper motor (No windshield spray)
- Repurpose
- Neutral safety switch replaced with hydraulic line pressure switch

The smallest of contributions -or- questions I should be asking are all appreciated.

TIA,

-D

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Pretty car man.

@RacEoHolic330 Would be a good starting point for you on wiring, I think. At least he'll get you pointed in the right direction.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Nice car, I'm not too far from you in Little Elm...

 

[GroverDill]

I have a rather modded fox with no HVAC system. If I could go back I would have never removed the HVAC system. Your car to do with as you please all I ask is you think long and hard about it prior to making the jump. The overall small weight difference is not worth it.

Now the smog stuff, just toss that in the trash.

 

[MikeH686]

I agree I bought my car with no a/c and I'm getting ready to put it back in

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

@DonMaximo
Is the intended use of your car going to be a purpose built race car for serious SCCA competitions? Or is racing for fun here and there and you'll drive the car around town for fun too?

From what I've read so far in your first post I think you're on the path to making huge mistakes. Most of what you want to do with your HVAC and electrical is NOT going to make your car faster or handle better.

What is your reason for wanting manual brakes? Unless you cannot fit a MC due to engine swap I suggest you leave it alone. What is your current setup for brakes? 5 lug?

If weight is of concern then you're starting with the wrong vehicle (convertibles are heavy). In my opinion what you need to focus on is BRAKING, SUSPENSION, COOLING, DRIVING LESSONS / SEAT TIME.

Most people you talk to will tell you that the greatest factor for reducing lap time is experience before horse power. You could be a noob driving the sickest BMW ever but get smoked by a Miata with a good driver that's familiar with their car.

Lastly. How you mod your car will change what class you race in. Read the rules for classing (which are really confusing). If you haven't already I recommend you go to a local autox event and ask questions about classing and requirements for safety. Have you tried an autox or open track test and tune racing event yet?

@MFE92 @ReplayMan

 

[a91what]

Uhhh you have a MS 3 pro.... why not let it do its job...
The MS can control the fuel pump, and both fan speeds, and a shift light, and ANYTHING you can think of.
It can even be programmed to shift a transmission....

If you have any questions I am the resident ms "guy"

 

[Mustang5L5]

How serius of a race car do you want to build here?

 

[bird_dog0347]

I wish I had AC in mine too, it's 100+ degrees here and there's no chance I'm driving my notch this week due to that. I plan to put the AC system from LMR in it to remedy that, but I also don't think I'm ever going to really race it but will eventually do track days in it. If you're going manual brakes due to low vacuum cause of a big cam and it's still a street car just go with a hydroboost setup for PB/PS. For full race car, ignore everything I just said.

 

[mikestang63]

You will LOVE not having A/C and manual brakes and PS...................for about 30 minutes. Anyone who's lost a race because of the hp "loss" of those two pulleys needs to look elsewhere for the cause.

 

[MikeH686]

I wish I had AC in mine too, it's 100+ degrees here and there's no chance I'm driving my notch this week due to that. I plan to put the AC system from LMR in it to remedy that, but I also don't think I'm ever going to really race it but will eventually do track days in it. If you're going manual brakes due to low vacuum cause of a big cam and it's still a street car just go with a hydroboost setup for PB/PS. For full race car, ignore everything I just said.

I'm researching this now if you do not have a/c in the car now you need to find the lower Bracket from a donor car because the instructions tell you to re use it all

 

[bird_dog0347]

I'm researching this now if you do not have a/c in the car now you need to find the lower Bracket from a donor car because the instructions tell you to re use it all

That and I'll have to work with the system builder to make it work with my MM STB as I've read it doesn't usually clear.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

That and I'll have to work with the system builder to make it work with my MM STB as I've read it doesn't usually clear.

It doesn't clear? Hmmm, I have the same brace hanging on my wall but have not installed it yet since I'm waiting till after I yank my motor to do it.

 

[MFE92]

MM brace clears factory A/C just fine

 

[Mustang5L5]

You will LOVE not having A/C and manual brakes and PS...................for about 30 minutes. Anyone who's lost a race because of the hp "loss" of those two pulleys needs to look elsewhere for the cause.

I remember watching a vid with Matt Farrell doing a one take and commenting that he was glad he was driving a car with A/C for once.

Race cars can have A/C

I wonder if he posts here. I've thrown a few comments his way on his notchback on IG


Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

[skyline247]

I'm not sure why you are removing all of that unless it's a dedicated race car. I would recommend against manual brakes or removing power steering. You are going to need to quickly apply the brakes hard repeatedly and I'm sure manual brakes will get tiring very fast, especially if you are in road racing sessions exceeding 20 min. If you have not raced this car often, I think you will benefit greatly from lots of driving time before you modify the car significantly. That way you can really take advantage of every change you make down the road. Just make sure you have good brakes, tires, and new fluids.

This is just my opinion though and it is your car to do as you please. That being said, I don't have any advice for you regarding your goal of simplifying the wiring. Hopefully everyone else will be able to get you the answers you need.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[a91what]

... its a fox mustang there isn't much wiring to begin with.