Hello all,
I've got a 2000 GT
I've never had an issue with this car before, but I was gone for a work trip for about 1 year and wasn't able to drive it. When I came back, battery was dead. Replaced the battery, found out alternator died. So I replaced the alternator, then that NEW alternator died in less than a week and stopped charging battery. So I figured my primary issue is somewhere upstream of the alternator, or something else is causing the alternator to fry. I haven't checked current draw or voltages from alternator yet as I recently came back home and haven't had much time to troubleshoot.
Before I get yet another alternator and test current draw, voltage, etc I figured I'd try and isolate the problem first. So, I've check wires in close proximity to the alt and batt, hot and ground. Checked fusible links, eng comp fuse box. All good. Continuity between all ground in eng compartment. I've checked all the fuses, they all seem to be good, both in engine compartment, and I/P fuse box. So, after checking the fuses, I thought it might have been a grounding issue. I checked grounds, particularly at/near alternator and I've measured continuity on fuses 35, 37, 38, and 41. Which to me seems quite unlikely that all those fuses, or wires faulted simultaneously. So that is something that is puzzling me. According to Chilton manual and LMR.com: FUSE 35 = Shift Lock Actuator, PCM, Speed Control Servo, ABS Module, FUSE 37 = Adjustable Illumination/fog lamp switch, FUSE 38 = Highbeams, Foglamp cutout Relay, and FUSE 41, Brake Lamp.
To me this is the only thing I've somewhat found, and none of those fuses seem related to one another, aside from 37/38 and none are blown.
I've got a 2000 GT
I've never had an issue with this car before, but I was gone for a work trip for about 1 year and wasn't able to drive it. When I came back, battery was dead. Replaced the battery, found out alternator died. So I replaced the alternator, then that NEW alternator died in less than a week and stopped charging battery. So I figured my primary issue is somewhere upstream of the alternator, or something else is causing the alternator to fry. I haven't checked current draw or voltages from alternator yet as I recently came back home and haven't had much time to troubleshoot.
Before I get yet another alternator and test current draw, voltage, etc I figured I'd try and isolate the problem first. So, I've check wires in close proximity to the alt and batt, hot and ground. Checked fusible links, eng comp fuse box. All good. Continuity between all ground in eng compartment. I've checked all the fuses, they all seem to be good, both in engine compartment, and I/P fuse box. So, after checking the fuses, I thought it might have been a grounding issue. I checked grounds, particularly at/near alternator and I've measured continuity on fuses 35, 37, 38, and 41. Which to me seems quite unlikely that all those fuses, or wires faulted simultaneously. So that is something that is puzzling me. According to Chilton manual and LMR.com: FUSE 35 = Shift Lock Actuator, PCM, Speed Control Servo, ABS Module, FUSE 37 = Adjustable Illumination/fog lamp switch, FUSE 38 = Highbeams, Foglamp cutout Relay, and FUSE 41, Brake Lamp.
To me this is the only thing I've somewhat found, and none of those fuses seem related to one another, aside from 37/38 and none are blown.
