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Converting '88LX to MAF... need opinions

  • Thread starter Thread starter prodetroit
  • Start date Start date Oct 19, 2004

prodetroit

New Member
Oct 7, 2004
15
0
1
Oct 19, 2004
#1
  • Oct 19, 2004
  • #1
What's up StangNet members - I'm new to the board, but not new to the game. I've got my hands on an '88LX hatchback with the following:

8.8 /w Auburn pro & 3:55 gears (upgraded to rear disc brakes)
Standard BBK hshorty headers /w off-road H pipe and flows
HD upper control arms, steeda lowers
Stock EFI intake manifold with custom porting and polishing to match lower (intake has been welded together from internal porting)
I've got a 9AL with wiring harness in a box - brand spanking new.

Now for my question:

In everyones own opinion, waht would you do to go from speed density to MAF? Would you stick with the stock 19lb injectors for now and add a MAF sensor/tube? Or would you upgrade the injectors and go with a big MAF sensor and throttle body? (and a new intake manifold?) - I am not looking to drive the car anytime soon - just get it converted to MAF before I weld in a 8-point roll cage and sub-frames.

Thanks to all for any input. Please feel free to shoot me any of your opinions and pointers on specific brands that I should look into.

PeAcE
 

N8Miller

I need NOS....make it 2 of the big ones
Founding Member
Jul 26, 2000
2,661
0
0
Kingston, PA, USA
Oct 19, 2004
#2
  • Oct 19, 2004
  • #2
as of right now, you dont need anything more than 19lbers from what i saw. But, if your gonna do it, you might wanna do 24s and a 75mm MAF depending on what you wanna do to the car.
 
A

autoXr1

Founding Member
May 3, 2001
1,838
0
0
Michigan
Oct 19, 2004
#3
  • Oct 19, 2004
  • #3
ProDetroit said:
What's up StangNet members - I'm new to the board, but not new to the game. I've got my hands on an '88LX hatchback with the following:

8.8 /w Auburn pro & 3:55 gears (upgraded to rear disc brakes)
Standard BBK hshorty headers /w off-road H pipe and flows
HD upper control arms, steeda lowers
Stock EFI intake manifold with custom porting and polishing to match lower (intake has been welded together from internal porting)
I've got a 9AL with wiring harness in a box - brand spanking new.

Now for my question:

In everyones own opinion, waht would you do to go from speed density to MAF? Would you stick with the stock 19lb injectors for now and add a MAF sensor/tube? Or would you upgrade the injectors and go with a big MAF sensor and throttle body? (and a new intake manifold?) - I am not looking to drive the car anytime soon - just get it converted to MAF before I weld in a 8-point roll cage and sub-frames.

Thanks to all for any input. Please feel free to shoot me any of your opinions and pointers on specific brands that I should look into.

PeAcE
Click to expand...

Welcome to the board, "ProDetroit". Nice to have another Michigander.

At any rate, for your current project, the stock 19# injectors will be just the ticket. The new manifold won't really be needed until you do the heads, as the heads are the real restriction in the combo. It is true that there may be some insignificant gains by going with a higher flowing intake at WOT, but for off-idle and part-throttle drivability, you'd be better off with your current intake. As far as the MAF sensor, there may be some gains to be had with going with a Pro-M shortie meter and a Anderson Ford Motorsport 3.5" Power Pipe. Check out www.andersonfordmotorsport.com The stock 60mm TB will be just fine until you change the heads, cam, and intake or use forced induction. Some folks think they need to use these big throttle bodies, but often part-throttle drivability suffers so they can gain 3-5HP at WOT...which is just "piddly" and ain't worth the money.

In a "nutshell", unless you are immediately going to do a head-cam-intake swap or are going to slap on a blower/turbo...just stick with the stock parts for now. However, as said earlier, you may have some gains with the larger MAF and Power Pipe...and it will support future mods. My advice is to get the engine put together and running well. Then, concentrate on getting the power to the ground with your chassis and suspension mods, as both need a lot of help in their stock form. No sense building a 300+ HP engine when the tires are spinning with 200HP.
 
8

87GT 306

New Member
Oct 11, 2004
260
0
0
Springfield MA
Oct 19, 2004
#4
  • Oct 19, 2004
  • #4
Also, I'd go with the Mass Air kit from ford racing, as it is alot easier to set up rather than getting all the parts and rigging something together. The "jumper wire" makes the installation a breeze and you dont have to go messing with splicing etc. You should be fine with the 19's until u go w/ heads, cam, etc.
 

prodetroit

New Member
Oct 7, 2004
15
0
1
Oct 19, 2004
#5
  • Oct 19, 2004
  • #5
autoXr1 said:
Welcome to the board, "ProDetroit". Nice to have another Michigander.

At any rate, for your current project, the stock 19# injectors will be just the ticket. The new manifold won't really be needed until you do the heads, as the heads are the real restriction in the combo. It is true that there may be some insignificant gains by going with a higher flowing intake at WOT, but for off-idle and part-throttle drivability, you'd be better off with your current intake. As far as the MAF sensor, there may be some gains to be had with going with a Pro-M shortie meter and a Anderson Ford Motorsport 3.5" Power Pipe. Check out www.andersonfordmotorsport.com The stock 60mm TB will be just fine until you change the heads, cam, and intake or use forced induction. Some folks think they need to use these big throttle bodies, but often part-throttle drivability suffers so they can gain 3-5HP at WOT...which is just "piddly" and ain't worth the money.

In a "nutshell", unless you are immediately going to do a head-cam-intake swap or are going to slap on a blower/turbo...just stick with the stock parts for now. However, as said earlier, you may have some gains with the larger MAF and Power Pipe...and it will support future mods. My advice is to get the engine put together and running well. Then, concentrate on getting the power to the ground with your chassis and suspension mods, as both need a lot of help in their stock form. No sense building a 300+ HP engine when the tires are spinning with 200HP.
Click to expand...


Thanks for sharing the knowledge Autox - Yea, it's great to be a Motor City Mustang man (Westland) - and this site looks to be very promising with good tech tips and forums.

A shortie meter should be an easy way to go for now, like you said - until I get the chassis completed (full length subframes and 8-point roll bar) then I will be pulling the motor out for head/cam/intake swap.

PeAcE -
 

prodetroit

New Member
Oct 7, 2004
15
0
1
Nov 8, 2004
#6
  • Nov 8, 2004
  • #6
ProDetroit said:
Thanks for sharing the knowledge Autox - Yea, it's great to be a Motor City Mustang man (Westland) - and this site looks to be very promising with good tech tips and forums.

A shortie meter should be an easy way to go for now, like you said - until I get the chassis completed (full length subframes and 8-point roll bar) then I will be pulling the motor out for head/cam/intake swap.

PeAcE -
Click to expand...

Well, I've puprchased a C&L 76mm MAF configured for 30# injectors - now I need to find a cheap MAF sensor to put on the damn thing.

Last Friday I purchased an 8-point Roll-cage from Competition Engineering for under $200. Now I have called around to have this welded-in... it look slike I'll be paying close to $900 to have it done. Damn, that's a lot of $$$ Anyone think that's a steep price or not?
 

prodetroit

New Member
Oct 7, 2004
15
0
1
Nov 9, 2004
#7
  • Nov 9, 2004
  • #7
Shameless bump
 

281pony

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
2,681
2
46
Oly, WA
Nov 9, 2004
#8
  • Nov 9, 2004
  • #8
damn 900 to have a cage welded? that seems like robery, although i have never looked into it.

i would stick with your speed density and suspension/bolt-on mods until you do something big like heads and a cam. makes it easier to do it all at once imo.
 
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