Coolant Temp
- Thread starter VAFOX
- Start date
Don't change the t stat unless it's failed. Stick with stock 195.
If you hit 220 degrees, you have a mechanical issue to fix...not bandaid with a cooler tstat.
If you hit 220 degrees, you have a mechanical issue to fix...not bandaid with a cooler tstat.
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
About 210 is where it will run with a 195 t stat. So I wouldn't be worried about 220 as long as it isn't going past that. The motor will run more efficiently with a 195 t stat. They shouldn't even make 180 t stats in my opinion.. You might as well just run without a t stat if your gonna use a 180.
My guess would be if it has the stock fan clutch, it's no longer grabbing.
With engine off, spin the mechanical fan. If it free-wheels, the fan clutch is bad.
With engine off, spin the mechanical fan. If it free-wheels, the fan clutch is bad.
Agreed with the fan and or fan clutch sentiments. While in there, check the fan for cracks - just in case it's about to fall apart. If needing a new fan blade, it's a factor in budgeting replacement parts vs an e-fan swap.
Jeepguy, a 180* is useful if you live in the desert. 110* ambient temps are not nice. Having the stat open sooner (which allows the fan to be running in a useful capacity sooner) can be helpful.
I live near Virginia Beach, Virginia. It can be in the upper 90's at times.
About the car...it is an 88' GT. I purchased it with a rebuilt motor that is carburated. It was sold to me as a 331 dss stroker motor, but the dyno says otherwise. It put 240hp to the wheels. I've been told it could be the stroker kit, but just not all the necessary internals. After I bought it I had to button up a few odds and ends. I am unsure of the internals of the motor though.
It does have an air gap intake, Holley 650 street avenger carb, ford racing headers, supposed to have GT40p heads, mac o/r x-pipe, mac mufflers and tail pipes, custom fenderwell cold air intake, msd 6al box, msd distributor. It does have a stock clutch which was slipping on the dyno.
About the car...it is an 88' GT. I purchased it with a rebuilt motor that is carburated. It was sold to me as a 331 dss stroker motor, but the dyno says otherwise. It put 240hp to the wheels. I've been told it could be the stroker kit, but just not all the necessary internals. After I bought it I had to button up a few odds and ends. I am unsure of the internals of the motor though.
It does have an air gap intake, Holley 650 street avenger carb, ford racing headers, supposed to have GT40p heads, mac o/r x-pipe, mac mufflers and tail pipes, custom fenderwell cold air intake, msd 6al box, msd distributor. It does have a stock clutch which was slipping on the dyno.
If you have a 3G alt, you will probably want to go with an E-fan. The choice depends upon what you can find, space available, if you will be forced induction in the future, etc. The 3.8L Taurus fan, Mark VIII, Contour and RC fans are popular.
If you have doubts about the radiator, the time to swap it might be while doing the fan swap (mock-up is easier on the bench).
If you have doubts about the radiator, the time to swap it might be while doing the fan swap (mock-up is easier on the bench).
Is the fan bad first of all? Confirm before replacing. If it's not failed, then could be a radiator issue as well
The car will never be forced induction.
I spun the fan and it does free wheel. The fan blades are in great shape. Is there any other way to check the fan? Is there a way to test the radiator?
I just want to get this thing working properly right now. I am not interested in upgrades on the cooling system unless the cost is comparable to what I have to do anyway.
I spun the fan and it does free wheel. The fan blades are in great shape. Is there any other way to check the fan? Is there a way to test the radiator?
I just want to get this thing working properly right now. I am not interested in upgrades on the cooling system unless the cost is comparable to what I have to do anyway.
Okay, need to retract prior statement re: fan and free wheeling.
I did a little research on fan clutches and such. I am able to turn it, but it does not keep turning. It stops pretty much immediately. I was originally thinking that it wouldn't turn at all.
So it seems the fan clutch is in good working order.
Does that just leave the radiator and water pump that may be issues?
I did a little research on fan clutches and such. I am able to turn it, but it does not keep turning. It stops pretty much immediately. I was originally thinking that it wouldn't turn at all.
So it seems the fan clutch is in good working order.
Does that just leave the radiator and water pump that may be issues?
How are the fins? Straight? Or are they bent over and clogged with bugs and leaves? There are tools to clear and straigten the fins.
Pop the cap and look inside. How do the tubes look? Clear, or are there deposits forming?
How is the coolant? Fresh, or in need of replacement.
Overheating when idling, and cooling off at speed is a sign of poor heat transfer. 2 causes are lack of airflow (failing clutch), or lack of thermal transfer at lower speeds due to an unefficient radiator/coolant.
I guess we should ask what is the overall health of the rest of the system?
Pop the cap and look inside. How do the tubes look? Clear, or are there deposits forming?
How is the coolant? Fresh, or in need of replacement.
Overheating when idling, and cooling off at speed is a sign of poor heat transfer. 2 causes are lack of airflow (failing clutch), or lack of thermal transfer at lower speeds due to an unefficient radiator/coolant.
I guess we should ask what is the overall health of the rest of the system?
The coolant is fresh.
What would qualify as the rest of the system? I don't mean to be dense here...just want to make sure I am considering all the necessary components.
Thanks
If when you were cruising the car didn't go back down to 195, it's probably your radiator.
I know some above think that temps over 200 are ok, and they may be, but i have always preferred my car to run 180 degrees regardless of outside temperature.
If my car (when it was pushrod) hit 220, i think i would have a had a meltdown.
I managed to get around 180 almost all the time using a mr. gaskets 180 stat with a 3 row pepboys radiator. Not sure the going rate on a pepboys radiator these days, but back then it was like $120. May also consider a mishimoto, i hear if you have problems with their rad, they have excellent customer service and a lifetime warranty.
If you do get a fan clutch, get a ford unit.
I know some above think that temps over 200 are ok, and they may be, but i have always preferred my car to run 180 degrees regardless of outside temperature.
If my car (when it was pushrod) hit 220, i think i would have a had a meltdown.
I managed to get around 180 almost all the time using a mr. gaskets 180 stat with a 3 row pepboys radiator. Not sure the going rate on a pepboys radiator these days, but back then it was like $120. May also consider a mishimoto, i hear if you have problems with their rad, they have excellent customer service and a lifetime warranty.
If you do get a fan clutch, get a ford unit.
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