coolant: what are normal operating temps and what temp is the point of overheating

yellowstang1994 · May 19, 2006

Well now that I got the coolant changed, a new stock thermostat and a new temp gauge... I have a few ?s My car is staying around 210-230. What are normal operating temps and what is considered overheating? It's easy to say just throw a fluidyne in there, a new waterpump and a bunch of other stuff. But i'm a poor man right now and won't have money for a while. I guess i'll try some waterwetter, maybee a manual fan switch and see what that gets me. I know theres tons of info on here so I'm not really asking for tips on what to do but rather what yielded the best cooling results for you guys. How much did the manual fan switch really cut down on heat? Etc... I dunno just trying to get another discussion going I guess.

Pokageek · May 19, 2006

Not sure exactly but stock temps went too high for my taste. When I had my car tuned, they made fans come on earlier and took care of that. Not sure if fluidine is needed...I have stock rad and works fine.

fordtech28 · May 19, 2006

I kind of had the same problem as you do the stock fan turn on temp is 210 which is pretty hot for me instead of paying for a custom chip to make my fans turn on earlier I put in a spal fan controller it lets you control at what temp the fan should turn on it works great easy to install and cost way less to getting a custom chip mine was about 60 dollars I have it to turn on my fan at 190 degrees

Swarzkopf · May 19, 2006

My input:

Well now that I got the coolant changed, a new stock thermostat and a new temp gauge... I have a few ?s

Why would you install a stock temp thermostat? A 180* thermostat would have had you running much cooler.

My car is staying around 210-230. What are normal operating temps and what is considered overheating?

210 isn't terrible, but 230 is too damn hot in my opinion.

Mine runs between 170-190 for normal driving and stays right at 180 on the highway.

It's easy to say just throw a fluidyne in there, a new waterpump and a bunch of other stuff. But i'm a poor man right now and won't have money for a while. I guess i'll try some waterwetter, maybee a manual fan switch and see what that gets me. I know theres tons of info on here so I'm not really asking for tips on what to do but rather what yielded the best cooling results for you guys. How much did the manual fan switch really cut down on heat? Etc... I dunno just trying to get another discussion going I guess.

If you actually want to decrease your coolant temps, a cheap and easy way would be:

1. Replacement Visteon radiator ($150)
2. 180* thermostat ($10)

Should drop your operating temps ALOT.

wicked95gt · May 19, 2006

The manual fan switch did a lot for me. I have a 180* themostat and a fluidyne and it still went to 220* in 70* weather. I put the fan switch on and no matter how hot it is outside it will stay 180* to 200*.

HISSIN50 · May 19, 2006

I would want to ensure your fan is coming on (you shouldnt reach a true 230*F). Low comes on at about 208*F and high about 20*F hotter.

The manual switches are a must do. I plan on going with a www.DcControl.com unit from Baskin when the time comes - this would be an alternative. Really slick unit.

I would want to ensure the system is burped completely - otherwise temp readings are unreliable.

If the car runs cooler at speed, but has issues in traffic or while going really slow, that suggets the radiator is capable of rejecting enough heat if it has proper air flow. Check fan operation again.

If it runs hot at speed too, make sure the little air dam under the car is present. Otherwise that can be a sign that you are not able to reject enough heat.

Those were my random couple thoughts.

Good luck.

yellowstang1994 · May 19, 2006

Thanks guys, i'm going to look into the fans and try to do something about it. I know I should've got a 180* thermostat but all they had at the autoparts stores were 195*s. I didn't feel like having to special order one although I know I should have waited and got one. But beleive me, I needed to change my coolant then and there and figured throwing a stock one on would be better than chancing the unit that was already in there. I just got the air deflector on my car so I'm hoping that will drop temps even more when i'm driving.

Thanks again

Pokageek · May 19, 2006

"If the car runs cooler at speed, but has issues in traffic or while going really slow, that suggets the radiator is capable of rejecting enough heat if it has proper air flow. Check fan operation again." - HISSIN50

What he said. It is a clear indicator of the problem. My temps were still running high in traffic WITH the 180dg thermostat. It helps but is no substitute for better fan control.

tb94gt · Jul 5, 2006

i have a stock engine and i can tell you a new stock radiator is fine to about 100 deg outside, but turn on the ac and or beat on it a little, and the stock radiator isn't enough. the stock tune and fan speeds are high and the stock radiator is a flow restricted design that just doesn't have enough ass to cut it here in the southwest. up north, stock is fine. desert conditions and ac (not to mention mods), get an aftermarket radiator.

coolant: what are normal operating temps and what temp is the point of overheating

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