Cooling system help :(

mustangman70

Founding Member
Dec 30, 2001
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St pete, Florida
Looks like the wheels are on the back burner as ive cracked my radiator :(

SO i dont have alot of cash, maybe 400 bucks (ill have more cash on friday however) HOWEVER, if i could just get a universal one for cheap that will fit ill do that, help me out L( I have an automatic by the way :(

Also fot the T-stat what do you recomend :shrug: i was thinking of just running without one :shrug:
 
My 19x27.5 Northern crossflow aluminum radiator with trans cooler was $325 shipped to my door. I can't remember where i got it but check online, they are sold all over the place. As far as the thermostat, definitely run one and i have either a 180° or 185° (can't remember).

Note: With this wide of a radiator, i had to move the battery to the trunk. A trim to the battery tray would have worked but i needed an excuse to move it to the trunk anyways. I have about 1/2" on each side of the radiator to the inside of the frame rails. FYI. A narrower radiator like a 26" would be better if you didn't want to bother with the battery. This thing cools like no ones business!!!!
 
Not the latest pic but it'll do. Pics from all sides and yes it has the upper passenger/lower drivers outlet. The trans cooler is on the vertical drivers tank (since it is cross flow). What i did was cut the ends of the trans cooler lines off at the radiator and ran rubber lines from there to the cooler on the trans. Not that hard to do and you can hide the lines in the C-channel that is the bottom and top of the radiator. From the pics, i reused the stock mount (as long as you have the 24" stock radiator and not the 20"). Hope this helps and let me know if you need any more pics or any tips.

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run without thermostat?? :lol:
If u need 1 as a replacement just get what a factory air conditioned radiator that came in 70 stangs. My mustang had factory air, but the a/c compressor got destroyed by the previous owner and my car can handle 300+ mile trips. But as a saftey messure I do stop every 100 or so miles for a 10-20 min break. but if u want the best bang for ur buck, get an aluminum radiator. I havent looked around by as an example go to this site. http://www.critesrestoration.com/mustang.htm
 
I just got done installing a universal Northern aluminum crossflow in my 66, dims are 19x26. I fabbed up a top bracket (easy, but your stock 70 mount should be useable) and put some rubber cushions under the bottom. Drivers side inlet goes to my 302's thermostat by using a top hose from a 302 equipped 73 bronco. Radiator outlet(bottom hose) is on the passenger side, just found a random hose at NAPA that looked like it would work and it does. Auto trans is run to its own seperate cooler, so I didn't get the radiator with fittings. Radiator was $170 thru Summit (northern is their house brand), spent $35 on hoses. This thing cools way better than my 3 core stock replacement and it looks sharp. Quality is good too, nice welds and big tanks.

For your 70, you'll probably want a drivers side outlet, and passenger side inlet(top hose), so your hose setup/styles will probably be different than mine. Its easy to match up hoses at the parts store though.
 
you do realize you're apying $135 just to have a built in trans cooler, correct? They have the same rad for $160 w/o the cooler at summit. You might at least want to call summit and see what they can do, just because its not on their website doesn't mean they can't get it. For $135 its worth a try.

You'll need to measure your car to see if you have room for the extra thickness.
 
mustangman70 said:
also is it safe for me to get the 3 inch thick version????

If you plan on using the stock fan then i don't see a problem with the extra thickness. Is the 3" thick unit a double pass radiator? The one you linked to is the exact one in my car and i had to offset the electric fan because the water pump pulley bolts would be touching the motor on the fan. You will also have to offset the electric fan depending on it's mounting depth, if you go that route. I'm running a zirgo but am not too impressed with their fans. I have the 3300 cfm unit and i can blow harder than it can. It is quiet though, but thats because it doesn't push much air :mad:
 
302 coupe said:
you do realize you're apying $135 just to have a built in trans cooler, correct? They have the same rad for $160 w/o the cooler at summit. You might at least want to call summit and see what they can do, just because its not on their website doesn't mean they can't get it. For $135 its worth a try.

You'll need to measure your car to see if you have room for the extra thickness.

I was in the same situation as him. My car has A/C, which has the condensor mounted in front of the radiator. If i didn't have A/C, i may have opted for a remote cooler in front of the radiator but i couldn't see having a cooler, then condensor, and then the radiator. The standard units from all websites are comparable to summits' $160. Not sure how much more work it is for Northern to add the cooler, but $300 for the radiator is balls on as far as price goes. I was quoted at over $500 for other brand radiators and that didn't include the cooler. Keep in mind that you will have to modify the cooler lines on your car, as they obviously aren't long enough to reach to the drivers side. If you need pics, let me know. Oh and the radiators polish up pretty decently, the first couple pics are polished and the last one is what it looks like when you first receive it. :D
 
summit has a sweet deal worked out with Northern. I'm pretty sure that if Northern makes it, summit can get it. The internal cooler should be no more than a $20 option, they're painfully simple. $300 still isn't bad, especially compared to other market prices, but I think there's a lot of markup in that number. If not, so be it.

BTW, thats a sharp engine JB.
 
I agree, an external cooler will work fine. Depends on the look you are after and how thick your wallet is. Some people like the looks of the coolers out front and some don't, all in your taste i suppose. Since you don't have A/C and your car isn't a big block, you will either have to make some saddle mounts or buy a set of originals. Its simple to make them out of aluminum if needed.