Copule of questions (steering, fuel economy)

Takeo · Sep 18, 2005

Couple of questions (steering, fuel economy, CES)

Hey all,

Got myself a -94 GT that´s gone 76´

It´s a really nice car (only had Trans Am´s before) and really like the model. BUT, it´s really thirsty. I´ve done a complete overhaul replacing oils, sparkplugs (R42TS), wires and set base timing. I found lots of vacuumleaks too and therefor replaced all the plenum/tb gaskets. And still it drains the tank quicker than my 700hp Turbo Trans AM Oh, and I´ve also replaced the fuelfilter.

I also have some problems with my steering. I´ve made a bunch of search for it. Maybe I´m searching with the wrong keyword.

1st; it feels very instable in all speed. I slightly have to steer against it to the right.

2nd; if I stand still (engine not running) and tries to turn the steeringwheel, it makes a strange squeek. Doesn´t matter what way I turn it.

3rd; if I change a lane, there´s a small "hop" in the wheel. It´s not every time, but almost.

I have checked that rubber joint next to the header, but it looks ok and doesn´t feel play.

The former owner said he had to replace something during this spring. But he couldn´t specify what, but it had to do with the steering. He had installed Steeda Sportsprings, but swore he made an alignment of the wheels afterwards. I was planning to do that myself, but want to get rid of the other problems with the steering first.

Any good ideas are highly apreciated.

Thanks in advance
/Andreas

Takeo · Sep 18, 2005

Ohh, and sometimes the CES-lamp comes on. It´s not often and always during slow driving with hardly any throttle. I used the KOEO method and found the following memory codes:
172 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

181 Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S

183 Fuel system was lean at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S

I thought they hade to do with the IAC leak I had, which I solved. The CES doesn´t come on as often as before I fixed the leak.

95COBRA241 · Sep 18, 2005

In reference to the steering if its not the ragjoint then I would have the alignment re-checked, re-balance all four tires, check tie rods and related bushings for wear.

In reference to the poor fuel economy hopefully the plugs, wires, filters etc will cure that.

Takeo · Sep 18, 2005

95COBRA241 said:
In reference to the steering if its not the ragjoint then I would have the alignment re-checked, re-balance all four tires, check tie rods and related bushings for wear.

In reference to the poor fuel economy hopefully the plugs, wires, filters etc will cure that.

Have to search for the tie rod part, thanks for that.

The first thing I did was doing the overhaul, and that didn´t solve anything. I´ve also ohm-measured the injectors, but all are fine.

95COBRA241 · Sep 18, 2005

Takeo said:
Ohh, and sometimes the CES-lamp comes on. It´s not often and always during slow driving with hardly any throttle. I used the KOEO method and found the following memory codes:
172 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

181 Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S

183 Fuel system was lean at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S

I thought they hade to do with the IAC leak I had, which I solved. The CES doesn´t come on as often as before I fixed the leak.

Seems that that o2 sensors are bad, replace them and have car tuned with a wideband for the lean condition.

Takeo · Sep 18, 2005

95COBRA241 said:
Seems that that o2 sensors are bad, replace them and have car tuned with a wideband for the lean condition.

Hmm, it´s not often, maybe once every 3rd or 5th day. Could it be the O2´s anyways?

To bad I gave away my wideband unit with my pacecar

95COBRA241 · Sep 18, 2005

Takeo said:
Hmm, it´s not often, maybe once every 3rd or 5th day. Could it be the O2´s anyways?

To bad I gave away my wideband unit with my pacecar

If the check light is coming on intermittent, the codes stay in memory for awhile. It could mean o2's are going bad. Once they are completely bad the light may stay on all the time

Takeo · Sep 18, 2005

95COBRA241 said:
If the check light is coming on intermittent, the codes stay in memory for awhile. It could mean o2's are going bad. Once they are completely bad the light may stay on all the time

I´ll get new tomorrow then and see if that helps. It´s good they´re not that expensive...

BlueOvalStangGT · Sep 18, 2005

They are like $60 a peice, try to get the ones with the plugs so you dont have to splice them. How bad gas mileage are you getting? Ours isnt that great stock.

BlownFiveLiter · Sep 18, 2005

I paid $38 a piece I think at Napa for O2 sensors, so at least it's not too expensive if they're bad. Nice looking car btw, I like the wheels. Similar looking to some I found on Ebay, but ended up with chrome Y2K Cobras instead.

MysteryMachine · Sep 18, 2005

why did you get rid of a 700hp TA?

Takeo · Sep 19, 2005

BlueOvalStangGT said:
They are like $60 a peice, try to get the ones with the plugs so you dont have to splice them. How bad gas mileage are you getting? Ours isnt that great stock.

It turned out that there´s only ONE place (I´m from Sweden) that can get the o2´s, and they wher $170... EACH! Guess I´ll have to order from US...

StangGT1995 said:
I paid $38 a piece I think at Napa for O2 sensors, so at least it's not too expensive if they're bad. Nice looking car btw, I like the wheels. Similar looking to some I found on Ebay, but ended up with chrome Y2K Cobras instead.

Thanks man. I´ve had to fix lots of things on it and the paint wasn´t too good looking. But a couple of hours rubbing and waxing got it really nice looking. And those wheels did quit good on the Mustang

MysteryMachine said:
why did you get rid of a 700hp TA?

Not any TA, it was a 1989 Pace Car. Well, me and a friend decided to build a rollcage chassi and put a Buick 4.1L StageII V6 and go for the European records. So I got this Mustang as a partial trade. Picture of my old TTA can be found at:
http://www.turbolunkan.com
We are putting up a new webpage for the racecar, but it´s still under construction:
http://www.stb-racing.com

I´m going to try and check the steering tonight, and hopefully I can clear up some clouds regarding it.

Thanks for You replies, and please keep the tips coming regarding the steering.

Regards from Sweden
/Andreas

94-302-vert · Sep 19, 2005

Does the car have C/C plates? Improper alignment can defineltey case the problem with the twitchy steering.

As for the mileage, what is your actual mileage? I would also say to clean your MAF while you are in there working.

Takeo · Sep 19, 2005

BlueOvalStangGT said:
How bad gas mileage are you getting? Ours isnt that great stock.

I drove about 195 miles since I filled her up last time. This is mostly cruising around 55 and no redlight WOTs.

94-302-vert said:
Does the car have C/C plates? Improper alignment can defineltey case the problem with the twitchy steering.

As for the mileage, what is your actual mileage? I would also say to clean your MAF while you are in there working.

I´m sorry, but what is C/C plates? Actual mileage is 76385.

The car runs smooth and doesn´t stall or anything (not since I fixed all leaks). It´s also very easy to start. I also just checked all the plugs, and they all look the same (they look perfect).

Just checked the tierods, and they looked almost brand new, so I guess that´s what previous owner had replaced. No play at all. I had a minor play in one of the joints (1/2" bolt) and got rid of SOME of all play.

There is a clonk in the rack when car is on the ground and I turn the steeringwheel quick. If I go easy on the wheel, the rack goes SQUEEK instead. It seems like most of the play is the shaft that comes out of the rack (the shaft that the ragjoint is mounted to). The wheels themself doesn´t have any play.

Maybe I should take some pictures if it´s hard to understand what parts I talk about.

Takeo · Sep 20, 2005

Tightened all bolt I could find for the steering and took it for a testdrive. Made hell of a difference. The "hop" was gone and the car is much more steady now. And the clonk is also gone.

But I still have the squeeking sound. I asked my girlfriend to take the wheel and I used a stetoscope, but still couldn´t locate the source. It sounds like it could be from the rack... Darn, forgot to check the bushing...

Oh, and no. I don´t have camber/caster plate.

wildmandave · Sep 20, 2005

Replace the rack. Mine had the same problem all over the road and the rack leaked anyway so I put a new rack in and it drove like new and was much quieter.

Takeo · Sep 21, 2005

Checked the rack bushings today and they looked a little dry. So I tried to snug them a little bit more, and most of the squeeling whent away So I guess I need new ones then, but they are not available in Sweden... I can get about anything for a Chevrolet, Mopar, Pontiac, Jeep and most Buicks.. But almost nothing for the Mustang or never T-birds

I also replaced both tie-rods, and now it´s a completely new car.

Regarding the bushings. I found that many recommend the offset and alot of people does not?
Are the BBK-2507 a good bushing? Read something about aluminum ones, but can´t find that on Jegs or Summit. I need to buy it from a company that ships worldwide.

Ohh, what would be the best source to find the following part? It´s for the licensplate bulb

Thanks
/Andreas

MysteryMachine · Sep 22, 2005

hey that looks like mine they must all do that

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