cost of a 351 swap

roworld

Member
Feb 12, 2004
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0
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baltimore md
Hey guys, I have a 88 gt. I've bin thinking of doing a 351 swap. For all you guys that have done this before what kind of budget will I need to make this happen excluding the price of the engine. My next question is what vehicle would I get the engine from.
 
Are you planning on rebuilding the engine? You'll need a swap pan/headers. Motor mounts bolt right up. You'd need to get a correct fuel injection manifold if you plan on staying EFI. If not you may have some hood clearance issues with a carb and the stock hood.

Swap headers will run about 230-330 dollars for shorty/full length headers. Pan is about 140.

Edit
351w out of LTD has always been a popular choice. You can find them in most everything Ford made. Vans, trucks etc. Just remember that 94+ are roller blocks.
 
Depends on how crazy you wanna go?The altimate 351w out there is the beaner block 351w. Then the next would be 69-72 then all the other 351's then 95 and up are roller's.I did a really nice build with some top of the line stuff and i have about $5,000 in mine. Here is a link to my build thread incase you wanna see more.I can ask any questions you have that i can. http://forums.stangnet.com/751223-my-351-build-pics.html peace







john:p
 
There is no 351 that I would simply drop into my car in stock form, unless it was out of an older Mach 1 or something. Truck and cop car motors really give you no benefit over your 5.0 when talking stock vs stock.

However, if you get a 351 block and build it, then you have something.
 
Not worth the swap unless you're going to do a H/C/I on it. At that point you will have spent around $3000+ not including whatever block youre going to use. i think a Canton pan is around $275 with dip stick. and some money on injectors.

If you don't do the H/C/I its going to be a waste.
A 351 will make plenty of power N/A on a stock bottom as long as its breathing right (H/C/I)
Theres nothing that bad with the rotating assembly in stock form on a N/A motor.

Get a Roller 351 from a 94+ Van or F250/F350. Got mine from the junk yard with 90k on the block before rebuilding it.


Whatever you do dont put any head on there near what would go on a 302....no e7's, no procomps, no AFR 165's. No Cobra upper on GT40 lower, no throttle body smaller than 75mm.

Something like Afr 185's or 205's would work well. A Trickflow R intake.


With all that said plan on spending around $4000 to get a max effort 351 (Not including the block) For performance the only thing you can keep is the short block.


And one more time (((H/C/I)))

For trouble free operation and meaner cam choices go with a 94+ Roller.....if you plan on boosting and pushing your stock block to the limit....then get an older block.
 
Depends on how crazy you wanna go?The altimate 351w out there is the beaner block 351w. Then the next would be 69-72 then all the other 351's then 95 and up are roller's.I did a really nice build with some top of the line stuff and i have about $5,000 in mine. Here is a link to my build thread incase you wanna see more.I can ask any questions you have that i can. http://forums.stangnet.com/751223-my-351-build-pics.html peace







john:p

John, I've heard you mention a "beaner block" a few times now, what the hell is a beaner block, haha. I was under the impression the 69 351W was the strongest stock production you could get. Is a "beaner" slang for some aftermarket block?? :shrug:
 
John, I've heard you mention a "beaner block" a few times now, what the hell is a beaner block, haha. I was under the impression the 69 351W was the strongest stock production you could get. Is a "beaner" slang for some aftermarket block?? :shrug:

Wouldn't a "beaner" block be a Mexican Block? I thought Mexican blocks were only different on 302's for there high nickel content. Is there a high nickel 351 block too?