couple of ?'s 4 n00by


Mar 1, 2008
well im not really new to this stuff in fact i have been around it 4 18 year (my whole life) im trying to follow my dad and uncle's foot steps in drag racing my uncle has a 1932 coupe with ... (chevy 327) shudder... and my dad a 1941 for business coupe with a 347 stroker in building/saving money progress.. Well my ? is when you talk about timing and u line the 2 gears straight up that would be zero * correct? Well in a couple of thread i have heard things like well mine is 15* and mine is 25* or u should adjust this back 10* ik it means degrees, but wats degreed where???... Also with my 1988 mustang u thing my little 302 can take on an lt1? I should be running 270 rwhp and him same??? im not sure plz put in ur inputs always like to hear from all of u!
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i believe the confusion is that you can degree a cam also, but they are not the same thing. the timing you are asking about refers to the marks on your balancer. the balancer should have numbers on it, and a pointer to indicate where your timing is at when checked with a timing light. it determines where on the stroke spark is given. you can advance and retard this by turning the distributor.
i dont think you gonna beat an lt1 with those mods. How you getting 270 to the wheels with those mods? stock 5.0's usually dyno around 180 to the wheels. I guess i need to get me one of those edelbrock intakes
like mentioned earlier, it all depend what you are wanting to check the timing on.
10-15* is most likely ignition timing. you can advance or retard the cam to move your powerband up or down, but that is usually around 4* or so.
ok thanks for all the info btw i made a mistake i 4 got that i also have a b 303 cam... needs to upg'd to prolly e303 along with some edelbrock aluminum performer heads... so with my b 303 i should be making close to 240ish... maybe idk i would like to beat this lt1 in the quarter mile so any suggestions help plz!
4.10 gears, a set of aftermarket heads, and a set of the widest stickies you can cram under your car should give you a fighting chance at the track.

the b303 is a great noise maker, but there are much better cams out there. I am partial to the TFS1, and I am sure people are going to start screaming custom cam at you, but if your car is a toy that you drive for fun I really wouldnt worry about it.
yeah she is just my for fun street driver but i like to be able to run with 80's style vette's which she did last summer surprisingly, but i wont complain about my b cam she does the job well and my uncle which started the drag racing thing in my family drove her and was shifting at 6500 rpm scaring the **** outta me.. i still have stains but well i told him he breaks it he buys it well he didn't break it. another option or well this is a guess wat about 70 mm tb and a bigger maybe idk a compatible maf?? along with 30 lb inj and a bigger fuel pump that may do the trick or is head work def in game?
no need in changing injectors unless you plan on pushing it over the 300hp mark.
to be completely honest I would focus on your suspension first.
subframes are an absolute must if you dont have them already, new upper/lower control arms and a set of drag radials will net you some serious gains at the track.
you def want a set of heads to go with your cam and intake. right now they are not living up to their full potential and the 70mm TB would go nicely along with it, but I would not get anything larger than that. to take the full advantage of your engines potential get it tuned. at this point you should have no problem hanging with stock lt1's or c4 vettes.
someday i will wanna push it over 300 but not 2day. i just had subframe connectors put on. yeah and i was thinking upper and lower control arms but idk i kinda 4got the suspension part whoops that woulda been fun. but anywho i have 16 X 7 pony rims and does nitto make a drag radial for those or not?? n if i decide to go with them can i get them small enough to clear quad shocks or will those need 2 come off? onto the heads a set of edelbrock performer rpm heads, they have 2.02 on the intake and 1.60 on the exhaust. 60cc chamber (smaller chamber means more compression?? not dramatic but enought to make a diff right?) intake volume 170 cc and exhause 60 cc.. seem like a good head that would run good with the car?
yeah, about 2200. less if you know how to do it yourself. istead of payin someone to do your gears, you can buy a whole rear axle assembly with gears already in it brand new for like 850 from ford racing. thats what i did. anyhow. comes with everything excluding the axles. 373's here
you need some 3.73's or 4.10's for that cam, it dosent like low gears like the 3.08's you have. get some gt40's atleast too and it will be a huge difference, i went from a stock longblock like yours with a bcam to swapping to gt40p's and bigger throttle body and maf, along with longtubes, and it was night and day difference, it went from keeping up to a x head gt40 crate engine 94gt to walking him, at least 5-6 in the road we run (closed course) :rolleyes:
no the only thing i wont install myself if my 373's i don't do rear ends b/c i have never taken one apart yet... but otherwise i will assemble the rest of the things like heads (they will already be put together) i heard of a brand of head called ummm AFR good head or no?