Crane 1.7 Roller rockers

5.0Droptop said:

Hey guys I just added my 1.7 crane pedestal mount roller rockers to the vert. They seem to be as noisy as my stocker stamped 1.6 rockers....This sound normal? I have always heard they are a little noisey? Let me know. Thanks!

BTW I followed the instructions that Crane has it said to make sure the Flat side of the piviot was up for the bolt head to mate to, it said to make sure both valves closed and to run the bolt in by hand and the it should preload lifter .015-.020" and it should Torq within .25 - 1 full turn ......... they all torqed at 3/4 turn so I am ceritian its correct there. I had to grind both valve covers where the baffle is on passinger side and where it would have been on driver side. Evey thing sounds normal. Just seems like they are as noisy as my stockers is all. It made my exhaust sound a little more lopey and deep.

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cive666 said:

If they are ticking after putting these on then you have a problem. You do not have enough preload on the lifter. Shims will not help becuase they are designed to take preload off of the lifter. You need more preload, so the only way you will be able to get that is by either a longer pushrod or shaving the pedestal base.

If you do either you run in to even more of a problem with piston to valve clearance on a stock head and piston.

An easy way to check lifter preload is to get a small diameter hose clamp with some rubber and an angled piece of metal and place it on the pushrod just under the lifter, so it can move without any impedance. then you will need a dial indicator with a magnetic base, or some way to fix it in place. Then you place the indicators shaft inline with the push rod and the tip of the indicator resting on your angled piece of metal. Make sure you have access to the bolt on the rocker. Also make sure you have enough preload on the dial indicator, .200 should be good. Now take note where the needle on the indicator is at, then tighten the bolt to spec. When it is tight watch the needle on the tool and you should see it moving very slowly, this is the lifter bleed down. Wait until the needle settles and take your measurement.

For example say you indicator started at .230 and then went to .190 .230-.190 is .040, which is in tolerance.

Say you started at .230 and went to .150 .230-.150 is .080 which is too much and you would need a .040 shim to get it back to mid tolerance.

Say you started at .230 and went to .220 .230-.220 is .010 preload which is not enough. The only way you are going to get more preload is with either a pushrod that is longer or shaving the base of the pedestal mount.

You can also start from a tightened start, just take note that your numbers will go up instead of down.

The purpose of a hydraulic roller lifter is that you can run 0 valve lash and the lifter adjusts its self to heat and rpm changes, so you are not set with a valve lash which causes NOISY ROCKERS.

Having the improper lifter preload can rob your engine or horsepower.

I had 1.7s on my 94 mustang and they were noisy as hell. I thought they would be a direct bolt in, but no. It even says in the crane instructions that a longer pushrod may be needed. On some of my lifters I was getting no preload and sometimes I was lucky with .010. I started to shave the base of the pedestal on some of them but it was taking such a long time, because I was using a file and not a milling machine, I just decided to go with 1.6 roller rockers. And guess what, NO TICKING.

The main purpose to me of a roller lifter verse a stamped one, is that of friction loss which translates in to a slight higher top end and less heat build up. Using a higher ratio isn't worth the strain on a stock valve train, the higher revs with 1.6s is enough wear and tear for me.

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