crane hi-6 install

grippper

New Member
Mar 4, 2003
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im going to install a hi-6 on the passengerside of my car. my questions should i make the wires longer on the adapter harness or the ignition itself. also will the lx-91 coil work fine or should i go with the lx-92 coil.
 
With your mods you'll be fine with the LX91, but there isn't a huge difference. I would extend the wires on the adaptor. It won't make any difference in spark energy, and if you frag it up it's just a $20 adaptor not an expensive ignition.
 
Love it. Over a year, no problems, good throttle response and cleaner plugs. I'd say I even picked up a mile per gallon, although I may be imagining it. Some great features for the money, like the built in rev limiter that doesn't require removable pills like the MSD, and can be set in 100 rpm increments, not 1000 like the MSD. Also, you get digital technology for less than half the cost of an MSD digital ignition. Plug and play, install was a snap and it'll work great with the new Crane distributor, when I save up the beans for it :D
 
Ditto that. I'm running the HI-6, TRC-2 and PS-92 on the stang. Runs verywell, timing retard in the car saved me a few times. tough too, I accidently welded on the car without removing the battery cables and the thing still worked. Can't say that about any MSD box I've seen.

Done two HI-6S and LX-91 setups and they make huge differences too.

Jamie
 
Oh yeah! I forgot about that- we accidently let something touch something during the instal and had a big blue flash under the hood- which burned out my factory tach so it's stuck at 3000 when the car's running. Didn't effect the HI6 at all, still works great. (thank God I have an Autometer tach in there too- and it's fine) I was originally looking at the MSD6-AL, trying to save some money on ebay. Almost every one was used, freshly rebuilt because there was something wrong with them but they come with MSD paperwork saying they are fine now- I got a little spooked after the first 10-15 of those I came accross. Seems like those things are just made to blow up, you can't get a used one that hasn't been shipped out and refurbished. I ask you, if you just paid to have it rebuilt, why would you sell it? Unless you didn't think it was going to last this time either...
 
Crane ignitions are great. I use the HI-6 and PS-92 on My Stroker. I also use Crane's new electronic advance/adjustable billet distributor. I have had no problem's at all with Crane Ignition Products and am very impressed with there performance. Crane over MSD any day man. I've had bad luck with MSD products. Anyone else?
 
408stroker5.0 said:
Crane ignitions are great. I use the HI-6 and PS-92 on My Stroker. I also use Crane's new electronic advance/adjustable billet distributor. I have had no problem's at all with Crane Ignition Products and am very impressed with there performance. Crane over MSD any day man. I've had bad luck with MSD products. Anyone else?
This puts a huge smile on my face. It's the first I've heard of anyone using the Crane billet distributor, and I want one like a bad habit. I've been waiting for someone to say how they are, but they're pretty new. Based on how long the word is taking to get out about the Fireball ignitions so you start seeing them around, I thought I'd never see one of these in use.
 
can i just ground it to the bolt holding the seat down. a coworker of mine told me to ground it to the bolt holding the seat down and then run another wire from there to the battery ground. sound good.
 
I agree, Crane is the way to go vs. MSD. In regards to your last question, exactly what are you trying to ground to the seat? Ignition system would be under the hood. Perhaps I read the thread too quickly, but you didn't mention anything else to do with the seat. Love my Crane system though. I've to the boost retard controller and the m.a.p. sensor too. Been just fine.
 
I stuffed it in the cowl right where my braided fuel pressure line goes through. Used a body plug to make it look factory. I ran the wiring for the TRC down through the heater inlet and into the car. I didn't want to cut any harnesses. The box is by the blower on the passenger side fender right where the air filter used to be. Coil is in the stock location. Ran the two step wire to the horns with a spade clip. Just unhooked the horns at the track and plug the yellow wire in. Sounds like a friggen race car on the line at 4k.

Jamie
 
The green wire on the box is the tach output for an aftermarket tach. In the goodie bag that comes with the HI6 there should be an adaptor plug that plugs into the green wire, which is where you splice in the shiftlight and/or tach. If you don't have an aftermarket tach, it isn't necessary to use the green wire at all (unless you have a shiftlight) you can just run the wires that went to the coil originally and run them into the red and white wires on the HI6, they will return to the coil through the black and orange ones. This way all factory gauges, etc, should continue to work normal. Or you can run your aftermarket tach off the coil like I did, in roughly the same manner. Directly at the coil is the most accurate place, although I think I trust this ignition to be right on too. Fear not, it's all in the scematic you'll see when you read the distructions.