crane pedistal to stud conversion

[midlife89]

Just wondering if any one out there has any experience with this conversion?I have ped heads n don't want the hassle/expense of removeing them to have them changed to stud mount.The reason I'm thinking of this is because I have a set of 1.7 Enegizers that are loud as s**t.Tried setting them between 1/4 n 1 turn n still they are loud.Plus I went with a TF stage 1 cam with them.Too much for my set up?(details in sig).Plus I lost a lot of bottom end.Thinking of going to 1.6 RR and advancing the cam 2 deg to try and get some bottom end back.Just can't decide if I should stick with ped or go with stud.Almost forgot,anyone use scopion rr?You like them ?.Any info would be appreciated,
Thanks

 

[TheBocSez]

I am running the Crane Ped / Stud conversion kit. What would you like to know? Works great.

 

[midlife89]

think going down to 1.6 RR and advancing the cam 2 degree will help my bottom end?

 

[midlife89]

almost wish i would've stayed with the stock cam

 

[TheBocSez]

Its a pretty common set up, I dont understand why you would have lost a LOT of bottom end. Anytime you step up in cam size and head size, your going to shift your powerband up, but it shouldnt feel like a slug or anything, Those 3.73's should have made up for any loss of low end.

Are you sure you installed you cam as recommended by the manufacturer? New timing chain too?

Now, if your rockers are adjusted incorrectly, it can cause issues. Is it possible that you are running the wrong length pushrods? I am running the Crane energizer rockers with the Crane stud conversion kit and the longer pushrods for that set up.

 

[midlife89]

I'm using standard length push rods,was told I could use them.If they were the wrong length wouldn't I have trouble reaching the tourqe spec with in 1/4 to 1 turn?

 

[midlife89]

I did change the lifters,timing chain and cam straight up.Called TF and they said advance was built into the cam.If that makes any sense?

 

[TheBocSez]

I believe so, but to be honest, I'm not 100% on pedistal rockers, never adjusted them before. Went from my stock 5.0 to the rebuilt with the conversion. Reason I was thinking its something in your valvetrain adjustment is because of the loud rockers and loss of power.

 

[midlife89]

I 've thought that it was wierd that they were louder than the non rollers,guess I should get a push rod length checker n see if thats the problem.Would/could a cam change mess with the pushrod length?

 

[TheBocSez]

Yeah, cams can have the advance ground into them. Dont know if I would mess with the cam timing a whole lot, with the 1.7's you are running 530/541 lift already, and heads with larger valves. If its on stock pistons, i'd be more concerned with PTV clearance and valve float, dont know what the springs on the performer heads are rated to.

Also, is it possible that maybe some of the noise you are hearing from the rockers could be them hitting the top of the valve cover? Its a common problem with 1.7's and stock 5.0 valve covers.

Have you already pulled codes from the EEC to see if maybe its something there?

I know Im not offering a lot of help here, sorry, just trying to bounce some ideas off you.

 

[midlife89]

I should look into straightening out what I have,I too have seen many guys on here with almost the same set up,with no complaints.Didn't mess with it much last year after my x filed for a disolution.In fact stuck it in my dad's names to keep her from messing with.Never used one of those pushrod length checkers before sure hope them come with directions,lol

 

[midlife89]

think the springs were good to .650,never messed with the timing or any thing,still set at 10 btdc,gonna look into the valve cover think,checked clearance with a dial indicator and was ok,yes they are stock pistons

 

[midlife89]

No,you've been plenty of help.No trouble light has been tripped,but haven't tried to pull any codes.Figured there wouldn't be any if the light hasn't tripped

 

[TheBocSez]

You can get an idea of your geometry by pulling the VC and the rockers, cleaning the valve stem tip of the oil and coloring it with a marker. Reinstall the rockers and then hand rotating the engine. Remove the rockers and they will have worn away the marker where the roller contacts the valve. Ideally you want it centered. More worn towards the intake = pushrods too short, towards the headers = too long. You would want to do this fairly soon after the engine is run so the lifters stay pumped. I did this but was kinda lazy in that I only did it on the intake and exhaust on 2 cylinders per side, figured if 1/2 were correct, the others probably were too LOL.

Dont know about the Performers, but I believe the TFS heads require a different length pushrod, so maybe.

On my set up, Crane makes a pushrod that is .117 longer just for the Stud conversion kit / energizer rocker combo that I went with.

 

[midlife89]

yes the TF does use a diff length,my friend is running them

 

[TheBocSez]

Never hurts to know about the codes, I use this method with the check engine light and it works great. Just follow the directions and have a pad and paper ready.
http://www.my5oh.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=190

 

[midlife89]

a friend told me about a guy with loud RR n that installing longer pushrods solved the problem,so i'm definatley gonna check into that.

 

[Yellowpnoy]

Have you checked to see if the rocker is actually hitting the top of the valve spring? If you went with larger springs, this could happen, make sure the fulcrum has enough clearance. Also, that can happen if the pushrods are too short and causing the rocker to bind, when the pushrod goes down, it goes so far that the valve retainer actually hits the rocker pushing the roller off the top of the valve, this could make for a very noisy valvetrain. Just a thought!