Engine Crank no start.

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rednotch

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Aug 14, 2000
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You said it has spark so i'll assume you did not just checking the coil...I would still Pull a plug on each bank and have someone crank it see if both plugs fire if you haven't all ready,... If it has fuel and spark at the plugs and not even kicking one bit with starting fluid I would be looking at the timing and compression how tight was the chain when you swapped the cam.
 

92Rustang

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Nov 11, 2022
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You said it has spark so i'll assume you did not just checking the coil...I would still Pull a plug on each bank and have someone crank it see if both plugs fire if you haven't all ready,... If it has fuel and spark at the plugs and not even kicking one bit with starting fluid I would be looking at the timing and compression how tight was the chain when you swapped the cam.
I'll checked spark at coil and then at one plug. Ill check both banks at same time. I've done atleast 25 cam swaps /timing chain r+rs (not just on sbf all makes models) and the chain was unremarkable. (Nothing to note / normal)

I'm getting to the point where I am unfortunately going to check compression just don't understand how it went from a good runner to not kicking at all during my 8 hour shift.
 

rednotch

Founding Member
Aug 14, 2000
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south jersey
I've seen truck 302 's do it when they get up there in milages but mostly the old nylon single gear timing chains... Some of the more recently go to brands for timing sets that I've seen had some really sloppy chains on them... Quality on a lot of stuff has gone down over years especially the last few. But yeah if it has spark, and fuel and won't even kick with either something isn't happy.
 

92Rustang

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Nov 11, 2022
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update: new Chinese $14 ignition coil fixed it. Fires right up now. I reckon I had a weak or inconsistent spark from the old coil.
I also order a new Motorcraft TPS on rockauto 30 dollars that should fix my TPS code.

However now that it's idling and i have my fuel pressure gauge still hooked to the car it shows 20-24 psi of fuel pressure at idle factory regulator hooked up. No signs of fuel on vac nipple on regulator.
Fuel pump weak??
Car never had loss of power but it would ping/detonate on highway WOT sometimes.
Sometimes on sharp corners or big potholes or if I stuffed the skinny pedal to wood in a low gear and chirp the tires the car would cut out like someone turned the key off but a half second later would be fine. Any ideas?

Thanks for help all.
 

rednotch

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Aug 14, 2000
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south jersey
I would throw a new pump in it, there cheap enough, the corning thing to me sounds like a busted fuel baffle in the tank, had many cars do it over the years, mostly ends in a stumble / lean pop when the tank is low.... Maybe slap the tank and see if you can head it move around

As for coils I prefer the blue streak fd 478 there around $25-30 and still made in Poland so less worry about cheap China or the recently crappy Mexico sourced stuff.
 

92Rustang

New Member
Nov 11, 2022
16
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1
Massachusetts
I would throw a new pump in it, there cheap enough, the corning thing to me sounds like a busted fuel baffle in the tank, had many cars do it over the years, mostly ends in a stumble / lean pop when the tank is low.... Maybe slap the tank and see if you can head it move around

As for coils I prefer the blue streak fd 478 there around $25-30 and still made in Poland so less worry about cheap China or the recently crappy Mexico sourced stuff.
Blue lightning?
 

AeroCoupe

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Oct 28, 2001
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Jenks, OK
Could also be just the rubber line that connects the discharge of the fuel pump to the pump hanger. Have seen these rot and split in the tank and just needed to be replaced. I will say that if you are in there there is no time like the present to swap pumps.
 
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92Rustang

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Good evening everyone this is my first post.

I have a 1992 ford mustang gt 5.0 5 speed.
This week my car developed a crank no start condition. Was running last week fine.
So far I have checked and confirmed.
Spark at coil.
Spark at plug.
Injector pulse.
38 psi fuel pressure.

I had the car towed to my house and it sat in my driveway for 2 days. It started (barely ran like crap) and I managed to pull it in my garage it idled for another 10 seconds and then died. Hasn't run since. Not even the slightest bit of trying to run. No one's home in the motor.
No recent motor work.
Looks original Motorcraft dizzy.

I know the infamous pip/tpi dizzy issues. However I don't see point of throwing a new dizzy at it if it has spark.

Thank you in advance,
Mark.

for anyone just joining the thread:
Doesn't start on ether.
Doesn't start when stout is pulled.
Only code is 63. (Tps voltage is at .30 when throttle closed)
FYI,

Have you tried disconnecting battery for 5-7 mins during the no start condition?

I had similar issues, TPS was 3-4V at throttle closed,
Pretty sure my car was thinking I was pressing WOT and not allowing injectors to come online.

TPS fixed me up, but I did have Code 23

Try start fluid as well into Intake
 

CAMTWO1070

Active Member
Dec 17, 2021
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NY
FYI,

Have you tried disconnecting battery for 5-7 mins during the no start condition?

I had similar issues, TPS was 3-4V at throttle closed,
Pretty sure my car was thinking I was pressing WOT and not allowing injectors to come online.

TPS fixed me up, but I did have Code 23

Try start fluid as well into Intake
A Oneill;- Code 23 means your TPS isnt set in the range of the parameters of the ECU..... Anything from .96 - 1.0v are the sweetspot settings..

OP : If your car sits more than its driven and its been raining Id look for moisture to be inside the salt n pepper shakers or have the relays tested and replace them if they look more than 10yrs old..........

With a low TPS voltage Id start with the basics especially the grounds for the ECU at the unibody by the coil or behind the battery and look at the wores with the fuseeble links and clean up the connection terminals with a wirebrush.....

I use dielectric grease to seal out the moisture when I resnap the connectors back together...........

Good Luck
 

AeroCoupe

Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
511
214
73
Jenks, OK
Okay, let’s bust the TPS myth yet again.

From my understanding the EEC-IV will check for the following:

— Minimum voltage at closed throttle over .49 vdc. , less than .49 and codes 23 and 63 will set as failures.

— Max voltage closed throttle should not exceed 1.2 vdc, or codes 23 and 53 will set as failures.

With the TPS voltage between 0.5vdc and 1.19 there should be no codes and the EEC will use this voltage as the closed reference.

So with all that set the TPS voltage between 0.6 vdc and 1.1 vdc and you should be good to go. Typically you can put one on out of the box and it will be in this range.