Crower Cam Trouble

Hope someone can shed some light on this problem...

I have stage 3 crower blower cams with a .612 lift. Got the high rev springs, titanium retainers, stainless valves, bronze valve guide sleeves, etc.. everything I need to have built heads. The passenger side cam has no clearance issues, but the driver side cam does. #6 is top dead center with the intake valve wide open. I personally think there is something wrong with the grind on the cam, since only one side is giving me trouble. Anyone has/had similar issues with high lift cams? I'm going to send the "trouble" cam back, unless someone has an idea for a fix. Trying soooo hard to make it to Norwalk this year; only a week away and my engine is out of the car. Can anyone help??
 
Advanced Duration
274 Lobe 274
288 Valve 288

Duration @ .050
228 Lobe 228
246 Valve 246

Gross Lift @ 1.8:
.612 / .612

Specs on engine: full prep SHM shortblock @ .020 over, 8.5:1 compression, manley rods/pistons, SHM bearings, Cobra crank
 
when you say Advanced, do you mean Advertised duration and actual duration for the lower amount you posted.

Did this just start happening or did you just get the motor build. Have you tried to put it into "safe" mode so that all the pistons are below deck height and rotate the cam so the the #6 valve is shut and see if the other ones are hitting to. I would think that if one is hitting because of too much duration, lift or not enough dished, all the valves would hit. If the base circles are incorrect, I really dont think it would be making a valve hit a piston though.
 
those are the specs off the crower website; http://www.crower.com/cat/domestic/ford/mustang_camshafts.shtml

Doing a build on the current engine; got the new heads so I figured i'd throw in cams as well. If the cam is set to the factory specified settings, thats when the piston is top dead with intake wide open. Like I said, it's only on one side, and I know the cams are lined up properly. I'll give the "safe" mode option a chance and see what happens; if that doesnt work though, any other ideas?
 
I've been waiting for something like this to happen after seeing the specs for the Crower cams. I'm no expert, but knowing that Comp Cams XE278AH's have clearance problems with less duration and less lift than your Crowers, I was wondering how the Crower grind like yours was going to work without notching the pistons, etc.

I wish I could help you out, but the only experience I've had is swapping cams into an OEM-spec engine. Your engine setup could make some difference depending on your pistons (flat-tops, notched, dished, etc.). I would highly suggest registering at http://www.modulardepot.com
There you will find plenty of people that have done camswaps and they are very helpful.
 
Thanks nick; i'll definitely check it out. do you have the specs on the comp cams your referring to? also, do you know if it was just one side of the engine, or certain pistons, etc? I really dont want to have to put valve reliefs on these pistons to get this cam to work.

mogs01gt - we checked everything out here and still only that #6 piston is what hits, every other one is fine. i think this combo can work, and i've spoken to a person at RPMOutlet who says a guy that works there has them on his mustang, and to give him a call monday if i still have questions. i think that may be a plausible route to go.
 
ProCharger GT said:
Thanks nick; i'll definitely check it out. do you have the specs on the comp cams your referring to? also, do you know if it was just one side of the engine, or certain pistons, etc? I really dont want to have to put valve reliefs on these pistons to get this cam to work.

mogs01gt - we checked everything out here and still only that #6 piston is what hits, every other one is fine. i think this combo can work, and i've spoken to a person at RPMOutlet who says a guy that works there has them on his mustang, and to give him a call monday if i still have questions. i think that may be a plausible route to go.
Here's a thought...could it be that #6 intake valve seat is higher in the head than the others? Or maybe the valve length itself is slightly longer than the others. If thats the case, grind the end of the valve. Did you have all the valve seats checked for uniform heights? I doubt it is the cam itself. That is one wicked cam!!! :flag:
 
ProCharger GT:

Did you measure the cams (i.e.--check the base circles and overall lobe heights)? It is possible that one is not quite right. I think the more likely thing is exactly what "96SOHC" said: an overly long valve stem.

Please post back with an update. And, good luck with those cams!

**edit: OK, missed the fact that you checked the valve stem length/seat dimensions (and they are OK). ** end edit.
 
Hey everyone just wanted to give a status update.. got a new cam in from Crower and it fits perfect, no problems. It was a bad grind on the original cam. Well, at least the hard part is over. I should have dyno numbers in a few days :D
 
dyno #'s

Yes, dyno #'s would be cool post them here. I have no intention of using those cams but am curious of your #'s. That sounds like one cam that is full of rage. Even a dyno vid would be cooler.
 
If I can get a video I will, but I cant gaurantee anything with my work scheduele. We should have the rest of the car together later this week, just need to finish up a few small things.. like putting the engine back in. Thanks for the responses everyone.

hotforstangs - did you also get the crower springs and titanium retainers? those are about the only ones (that i know of at least) that will work for that high lift cam.
 
sweeet that is good news. I would have never through that one cam would have a different grind than the other. You would think they would be ground right after each other or something.
 
Yea I thought that was really strange too; I spoke to dave crower and he found that really hard to believe as well. But sure enough after we put in the other cam we had no more problems. Im sure the odds of getting a misground cam are 1 in a million but i DO have bad luck afterall :rlaugh: