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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Cruise not working

  • Thread starter Thread starter 90blue5.0
  • Start date Start date Sep 8, 2008
9

90blue5.0

Founding Member
Jul 4, 2002
266
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0
Regina, Canada
Sep 8, 2008
#1
  • Sep 8, 2008
  • #1
I’m replacing the heater core in my ’90 this weekend and would also like to get my cruise working at the same time. Beyond the obvious fuse check what should I look for? What’s the common cause of cruise control not working?

For background, it always used to work, sometimes you would have to press the set button more than once but it was always good until one day it just stopped.
 
K

KGOFF

New Member
Nov 25, 2007
63
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0
nj
Sep 8, 2008
#2
  • Sep 8, 2008
  • #2
vacume lines......
 
K

KGOFF

New Member
Nov 25, 2007
63
0
0
nj
Sep 8, 2008
#3
  • Sep 8, 2008
  • #3
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Sep 8, 2008
#4
  • Sep 8, 2008
  • #4
Dump the codes and make sure you don't get a code 27 or code 29 - the VSS sensor is used by the cruse control.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 
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