Cuting-Away The Seat Riser

[SCHOONER]

Hi Guys

Problem Help Please:

I'm presently cuting-out both Inner Rocker Panel one at a time. I working on the R/H side at present. (passenger side)

The bottom part of the Inner Rocker is SHOT/Damaged all the way thru.

I've cut-away from the front to the middle of the rocker and stopped due to the fact that the Lower Reinforcement Plate & Seat Plateform are STILL HOOKED-UP to the upper & lower part of the Inner Rocker Panel.

What's strange on my '66 Convert. the seat riser is all one piece meaning that this part goes right over to the drivers side. I can't ever take out the spot welds Horizontally because there is none! The spot weld are on both right and left and ride over the tranny tunnel and are spot welded to the upper part of the Inner Rocker Pane. WHEW! That the best way I can describe what's going on so far.



My Questions Please (How Do I Do This )

I want to cut thru the inner rocker & install the one rocker. But both the Seat Raiser & Lower Reinforcement Plate are attached to the part I am unable to cut away till I hear what you guys have to say

I will in installing a cross door brace in order that my door area(s) will not SAG.
I got the L/H brace installed already. However the company that I bought it from sent me TWO R/HAND BRACES! They will be sending the right side tomorrow I was told. Anyway(s)

O.K. Guys I'm in your hands. Some of you guys have done this before and me being a NEWBIE will Listen and Learn from you that have been helping me so much in the past and hopefully in the future too.

Special Appreciation goes out to: Geostang135 for his helping me thru this dark hours. GOD BLESS you buddy and to all of you too.

Thankful
GOD BLESS

Schooner

 

[mr-fixit]

Ideally you drill out the spotwelds on the lower reinforcement plate & seat platform that attach to the inner rocker. I often end up using a torch in this area to burn away the rotted inner rocker, then grind the area on the lower plate and platform. You are correct, on a convertible the seat riser goes over the transmission hump and is one piece. I install the new inner rocker from the front, and slide it through the opening between the seat platform and lower plate, then clamp and spot weld.

 

[SCHOONER]

Ideally you drill out the spotwelds on the lower reinforcement plate & seat platform that attach to the inner rocker. I often end up using a torch in this area to burn away the rotted inner rocker, then grind the area on the lower plate and platform. You are correct, on a convertible the seat riser goes over the transmission hump and is one piece. I install the new inner rocker from the front, and slide it through the opening between the seat platform and lower plate, then clamp and spot weld.

Hey Mr-fixit

Damn now why on earth did I think of the " SLIDE " it through

See Schooner that why these guys are your teachers (and I mean that guy)

So Mr.Fixit, I take-out the spot weld and I'll have enough room to SLIDE new inner rocker in its place.

Here I'm figuring that I'll have to cut a horoziontel line across the raiser seat.

Thanks to you my good man I wouldn't have to do that.
Now all I have to due is wait for the other cross brace to come by UPS the company I bought the brace from sent me (2) two L/H sides.

Once I brace-up the door area I take you advice and do like you said.
When I get to the back (Rear Torque Area) I'll be a posting. I did cut a little square out of rusty sheet metal and took a peak and what I seen looks like a good Rear Torque Box & Frame ~ THANK GOD

Till then my good man
GOD BLESS YOU

Schooner

 

[SCHOONER]

Picture of the seat platform

Hi Guys

Hope this picture of my Seat Platform and Inner Rocker area shows-up
Here goes

 

[CraigMBA]

big red x no picture.

 

[geostang351]

big red x no picture.

Here is the picture Schooner wants to post:

or

 

[SCHOONER]

Here is the picture Schooner wants to post:

or

View attachment 379703

THANK YOU so much Geostang351 for posting my pictures.

In the 1st. picture you can see that I've cut away the rocker on the left and then some on the right. I haven't got to the rear of the rocker YET.

THE PROBLEM: As you can see I took-out the most of the spot welds except (2) at the left of the seat pan. Under the seat pan you see the differcult part of my problem: The rest of the Inner Rocker Panel that has to come OUT

MORE: under the seat pan the reinforcement platform lies. And that platform is also spot welded to the old inner rocker panel. The ol' rocker panel is sandwiched in between both pans.

What was suggested by another good fellow member of this forum was:

I was to remove the spot weld upper & lower on both pans and cut out/burn out/bang out/ however I get that ol' rocker panel out and then SLIP in between the new rocker panel without cutting out both pans. And then re-welding 'em back into place.


My question is: Can or will I have ENOUGH ROOM to SLIP IN the new rocker in between the seat pan & reinforcement pan?

I'm in your hands guys. What is the Best salution to this problem please.
GOD BLESS

Schooner

Thanks again Geostang135 for helping this ol' man get his pics on this great forum.

 

[68GT500KR_Vert]

I cut out the whole floor pan and just replaced it when I did the inner rockers. The floor pan kit comes with new risers on seat supports.

 

[geostang351]

I cut out the whole floor pan and just replaced it when I did the inner rockers. The floor pan kit comes with new risers on seat supports.

Doesn't the whole seat go from one rocker to the next? I think he is trying to NOT remove the seat riser if possible

 

[SCHOONER]

I cut out the whole floor pan and just replaced it when I did the inner rockers. The floor pan kit comes with new risers on seat supports.

Hi 68GT500KR

I don't know if you have a convertible like me ('66) and for me to cut out the entire floor pan would be kinda rough 4 me.
I have to consider the entire body of the car to go out of whack; doors not being able to close properly; fenders not going on correctly.

Plus, I have some pretty good sheet metal on the car still.
In order for my door(s) area not to SAG-UP on me I bought a great brace just for convertibles. Making sure the car stays truth in body & doors.

Thanks so much for you input.
GOD BLESS YOU

Schooner

 

[68GT500KR_Vert]

support

put it up on jack stand on top of some box steel, weld the body to that and tack in supports in the interior section. The car won't be tweaked than. You've already cut most of it out anyway.

 

[mr-fixit]

My question is: Can or will I have ENOUGH ROOM to SLIP IN the new rocker in between the seat pan & reinforcement pan?


Schooner

If you cut out all the old inner rocker, and clean up the surface of the lower seat pan and upper seat riser, you will have no trouble sliding the new inner rocker panel between them. In fact I always put a jack under the lower seat pan to close up any slight gap for welding. After you have cut out the inner rocker, front and rear floors and front torque box,with the front tire removed, start at the front and push/slide or drive the inner rocker into place. It is not uncommon to put a block of wood on the end of the rocker and drive it into place with a large hammer. I have done over thirty Mustang convertible floor and frame rail jobs, I think I have removed the top or bottom seat support on three, maybe four, and that was because of extensive rust.

 

[68GT500KR_Vert]

He's already cut out the floor in front and behind the riser. What's the point of not putting full pans or a complete floor in at this point. It would be stronger and look better.