ive been looking around trying to find a decent cam with i good sound but not too aggressive and also gives me good performance. i have the 94 gt and was seeing a lot of people getting the E303 cam vs something from trick flow or comp cams. first id like to know why, secondly id like to know if its because its cheaper am i better off getting a comp cams XE270HR stage 3 cam or a trick flow cam. im going to be using sve aluminum cylinder heads 170cc intake runner, 64cc exhaust runner, 60cc combustion chamber, & 2.02"/1.60" valves. with 1.6 Ratio Mustang Roller Rocker Arms. i havent heard anything bad about these heads either but if theres a better combo of heads with cam let me know
Cylinder Heads For 1994 1995 Mustang Gt
- Thread starter tyboudreau
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Whats the game plan?
Sound cool?
Out run a cement truck (just kidding)
Street
Street strip
Road course
Daily driver
Sound cool?
Out run a cement truck (just kidding)
Street
Street strip
Road course
Daily driver
Can we make a sticky?Banner? Anything? About the millionth time someone has asked about the alphabet cams and/or head question. Please and thank you.
Op...no to the Ford cams(b,e,or f profiles). More info is needed for head and actual profile recommendations
Op...no to the Ford cams(b,e,or f profiles). More info is needed for head and actual profile recommendations
Redfire Fox
Active Member
- Dec 29, 2011
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Posts like this make me feel bad cause I got the F303 cam in my car. It's not a bad cam. Its a bit lazy at the low rpm range but really starts too pull hard after 3000 rpm with my AFR 165 heads and C4 trans.
Here is what I think the reason for the cam/head questions, many people don't understand the reason for the different head/ cam combinations and what they really do together, there are so many different things to consider when making those choices, or why some combos work better together than others, where the power is and where they are going to use it, they don't look at the combination of parts and how they work together.
They want someone to tell them buy this and that and all will be right with the horse power gods.
They want someone to tell them buy this and that and all will be right with the horse power gods.
Feel bad how? There are lots of options for every combo of parts. The alphabet cams aren't the answer. Even your car. Your words that the f cam is slow and lazy below 3k. Obviously depending on how you use your car,trans type,stall speed,rear gear ratio,vehicle weight,all are factors. The technology is decades old and outdated. There are better options. Oh and I'm running a b cam in my car...so I'm not hating out of no experience with one.
It seems there is always one answer to any cam question. Save up some money for a custom grind for your combo/application. I didn't and I am regretting it. I have a tfs 1 and while it works with my combo, it's not great for a street only car. The stock cam would have been better for the kind of driving I do. Save up some money and do it once and do it right.
Or, some people make a post to a forum where the people on it have more experience and knowledge about the vehicle than they do. AND they know what works, and doesnt work. im not saying im the smartest person on the planet, but why waste the little time i have on looking at specs for every single cam shaft and cylinder head there is when there is 50,000 people that i can ask that know far more than i do about this engine for this car and have already figured out what is good and what is bad. i also dont appreciate you being a Dick when all i wanted was an answer to a question.
you still didnt tell me WHY those cams are bad. its a daily street car im not building it for the drag or motocross i want more HP than 215 thats has a good sounding cam with good lift good duration that will go well with a set of assembled cylinder heads. just need to know what people have done and whats worked best, if i came to the wrong place for that answer then ill go somewhere else i guess
First off, I was not being a dick to anybody, second I was responding to a post mad by A5literman, go back and read his post. I used an E cam with gt40P heads but the block I used had the wrong pistons, low compression, lesson learned.
As for you my friend, do some research, know where you need your power, down low, up high or inbetween, hotrod.com has some interesting videos on heads, cams and headers, granted, most are on sbc but engines use the same principle, in, bang, out. One thing I noticed on a head comparison test they did, all the heads tested where within a few hp/lbftof each other, major difference was price and supporting equipment. Not to mention where the differences in where the hp/torque was in the rpm range. You are not gonna notice a 10 hp difference on the street.
Have you planned out what your car will be do'n or is your plan based on what you want you car to do. Do you know where your working rpm range will be?
Car weight, gear ratio, trans type, driving situation, will dictate where your working rpm will be, how much hp/torque you need and where you need it.
You can use whatever cam/head combo you what, the success or failure will be in the supporting cast, or lack of.
There is a couple threads here that offer good advice on modifications to a mustang,
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/bob-cosbys-12-second-recipe.853108/
http://forums.stangnet.com/716191-afr-trickflow-head-information.html
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=636360&showpost#3
50 thousand people will get you at least 10 thousand different answers, and at least 1 named dick.
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If you want more power AND good drive ability, buy a custom cam. Check out flowtechinductions.com,bullet cams,Comp cams,or Lunati and fill out their online spec sheets. Now Comp will probably just try to sell you one of their off the shelf profiles(lunati also) but either profile will perform well. A good choice is the Comp 264 or 270hr(ots options) imo. For a street car you want to maintain low speed torque/mid range with modest topend power(basically off idle to about 5krpm peak power with a max shift spot of around 5500rpm-mostly depends on trans and rear gear ratio).
The alphabet cams concentrate on mid to upper rpm power. They are lazy profiles with slow ramp rates. This is fine for certain cars and their intended use but not a street car. Also there are many more options these days that will outperform those profiles even in that rpm range.
A good custom cam will provide you with the best of all worlds. They aren't a must have but I highly recommend that route. One will cost about 350-400$ but they are the biggest determining factor on the cars manners.
Now for heads. Buy once and grab either tfs or AFR heads. The components are the best quality and they flow the best out of comparable options. The SVE optional heads are very mediocre. Again they will work but you are sacrificing quality. Save an extra 20-30% and buy the better parts. You'll be happy you did.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
i have nothing to add except jumping on people like Todd who have helped out hundreds of guys on this site isn't an ideal way to have others want to participate..
Oh and alphabet cams and SVE heads?
Oh and alphabet cams and SVE heads?
- Mar 2, 2015
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My e can worked great ! And my comp cam xe282hr is even bettter. With an old push rod engine...and old technology its really hard to improve over what's already been done. I'm just saying...
I've always wanted to be better than great, but mediocre is all I could get, I'm working hard to achieve average.
It's not that the e cam is a horrible/terrible pos profile. It's just not the best option(not even close). It likes a little more compression(9.5-10.5:1) and with quality supporting parts it makes good power and a decent powerband. It doesn't create a ton of vacuum. It still is fairly lazy and it is outdated. It works. It fits. It just isn't a great option. It's all about matching the components to compliment each other for intended usage. Which you already know.
While you say there isn't any "ground breaking" pushrod technology (which I mostly agree with), I will point out that there have been some improvements. While for years we have been making a big deal out of getting 300-315rwhp out of n/a 302 combos, nowadays there are plenty that have pushed that number up to the 350whp range. There have been head improvements and cam profiles to match in the past few years. The 11r heads for example and AFR reworking their lineup. With a dedicated build the limits have been increased. A cookie cutter build is still vastly more popular and cheaper. Btw that 282 cam is a very good profile and popular with stroker builds. Not going to work with a stock shortblock though(which I know you weren't saying-just wanted to point it out to the uninformed,again).
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