D.S.S or CHP Stroker???

Whats going on everybody, I know what size Stroker Kit I want the 331 Stroker, but from which company???????????????? CHP has the Street Fighter Kit for $899 but D.S.S. has one for $999. Does anyone have any opion's on this matter, I'm willing to listen :scratch:

Thanks Everyone
 
chp dropped the price on the street fighter gt. its $799 now.

as for which is better. :shrug: IDK, I went with a 351w. I found the block cheap and rebuilt it. (it was to replace the 289 in my 67)
 
D.S.S. seems to like to charge a lot of money for "block strenghtening" add-ons that don't add block strength (level 10, level 20, blah blah blah). I've also seen a number of threads expressing concern with their quality control over the last year or so. :shrug:
 
I have heard good things from both:nice:

If I was to choose (with there similar prices), I would go with C.H.P, with DSS right behind.

I have seen some pretty high dyno numbers out of DSS's stock blocks...that impressed me a bit.
 
I HAD a 347 Dss stroker in my car... their quality is GARBAGE. I still have the busted rod from my n/a car, that the rod cap split in 3 places from it being so thin.

I have just put a 427W stroker kit from CHP in my fathers 66, and let me tell you,

The quality of the CHP over the DSS kit is AMAZING. I wouldnt think twice of telling you to goto CHP.


oh plus the people at CHP know what they are selling. DSS I had to send back 3 sets of pistons cuz they couldnt get "Notched for trick flow heads" right.
 
I have heard good things from both:nice:

If I was to choose (with there similar prices), I would go with C.H.P, with DSS right behind.

I have seen some pretty high dyno numbers out of DSS's stock blocks...that impressed me a bit.
If I get the CHP 331 Stroker Kit, im looking into buying the 331ci Street Fighter Kit. Will that kit be good enough???? I just wonder how much HP that kit will hold??
 
Don't use DSS, as said above, they are garbage.
CHP has a good rep, i wouldn't just buy the stroker kit from them, just get a complete shortblock.
By the time you pay for block machining, and have your's assembled it will cost you the same.
And if you plan on assembling it yourself, and you had to make this post, i'd rethink that plan, no offense.
And go for the 347.
 
Both from the same town no less. :nice:

Keith used to work for Jim Kuntz FWIW.

Yeah, a buddy of mine told me about that when I told him I was going with Keith Craft for my rebuild, after listening to you:nice: I thought it was interesting. They both do some good work from what I hear as well:nice:

Frosty GT - I would go with there complete shortblock as well. It will save you time and money in the long run, along with piece of mind:) If planning to stay N/A (stock block especially), I would consider a 347 as well with the 1.175 compression height piston/5.315" rod. Good Luck!
 
Yeah, a buddy of mine told me about that when I told him I was going with Keith Craft for my rebuild, after listening to you:nice: I thought it was interesting. They both do some good work from what I hear as well:nice:

Frosty GT - I would go with there complete shortblock as well. It will save you time and money in the long run, along with piece of mind:) If planning to stay N/A (stock block especially), I would consider a 347 as well with the 1.175 compression height piston/5.315" rod. Good Luck!
I always heard that the 331 stroker was more streetable and would last longer than the 347 stroker. I'm probably just going to go with the 331 stroker, but im going to keep an open mind about it though. I appericate everyone giving me there input on this matter.Thanks :flag:
 
Only the right builder can alleviate the 'infamous' 347 problem. Not all 347 combinations are corrected. The use of proper tolerances, oil support ring orientation, skirt design, all become something that needs to addressed. To tell someone it is a wives tale, is a bit misleading. Then again, telling someone that 347's are junk, is along the same lines:)

Frosty GT - Read the link in my signature for some information on the differences. It may help your choice. Either way, you have a mustang and your wanting to pick a nice combination of parts:nice: Seems like you are on your way:)

Now, the 347 does have a slightly worse rod/stroke ratio, but it is extremely small. Back in the day, with the 3.4" stroke (347), rotating assembly manufacturer's only made a short piston (1.090") that had the wrist pin interesecting into the oil ring land. This causes some unneccessary blow-by at the time. Now, companies like CHP (Probe products), DSS, have created a shorter rod, 5.315" instead of the old 5.4", which in turn let's one use a taller piston, a 1.175". By doing this, they kept the same 3.4" stroke and with the taller compression height piston (1.175"), it kept the wrist pin and the oil ring land from intersecting. Therefore, it is designed like the 331 or 302:nice:

I would go with a 331 if you want to be different, which is totally cool! Or if you want to go with high boost or nitrous use later...

Either way, you pay for it, and you get what you want. Whatever makes you feel at ease.
 
Only the right builder can alleviate the 'infamous' 347 problem. Not all 347 combinations are corrected. The use of proper tolerances, oil support ring orientation, skirt design, all become something that needs to addressed. To tell someone it is a wives tale, is a bit misleading. Then again, telling someone that 347's are junk, is along the same lines:)

Frosty GT - Read the link in my signature for some information on the differences. It may help your choice. Either way, you have a mustang and your wanting to pick a nice combination of parts:nice: Seems like you are on your way:)

Now, the 347 does have a slightly worse rod/stroke ratio, but it is extremely small. Back in the day, with the 3.4" stroke (347), rotating assembly manufacturer's only made a short piston (1.090") that had the wrist pin interesecting into the oil ring land. This causes some unneccessary blow-by at the time. Now, companies like CHP (Probe products), DSS, have created a shorter rod, 5.315" instead of the old 5.4", which in turn let's one use a taller piston, a 1.175". By doing this, they kept the same 3.4" stroke and with the taller compression height piston (1.175"), it kept the wrist pin and the oil ring land from intersecting. Therefore, it is designed like the 331 or 302:nice:

I would go with a 331 if you want to be different, which is totally cool! Or if you want to go with high boost or nitrous use later...

Either way, you pay for it, and you get what you want. Whatever makes you feel at ease.
Thanks Everybody!!!!!!!!!