Danny's 1996 Mustang Gt 5-speed

DannyZ

New Member
Apr 19, 2017
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Phoenix, AZ
Hey y'all,

I picked up a 1996 Mustang GT recently, so I figured I'd post about it here, since the SN-95 section seems pretty active on this forum (it's a ghost town on other forums).

This Mustang GT has an interesting backstory. It started when a good friend of mine reached out to get me to inspect and buy a Mustang GT for him. He lives in Orlando, FL and I'm in Phoenix, AZ, so that's why he had me handle the purchase. After I bought it for him, it stayed at my house for a bit until he flew out here to pick it up. He bought it for a YouTube challenge he was doing, so we did a quick and dirty build on it over a weekend, cutting the springs to lower it, installing a cheap cold air intake, removing the back half of the exhaust, and fixing a few other odds and ends. After that, my friend drove it to LA, did the YouTube challenge, and left it parked at a garage near LAX (he had to fly back home) for me to pick up since I had agreed to buy it from him when he was done with it.

This past weekend I took a super long Greyhound ride to LA and picked up the Mustang. While I was in LA I took it to some nice canyon roads in Malibu which was a total blast. I then drove it all the way back home to Phoenix, which went off without a hitch. Here are some pictures I took of it while it was in LA:

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It was absolutely filthy from being thrashed around on a dry lake bed for the video shoot, and the side skirts got torn off. I still have them along with all of their clips, they were laying in the front seat. It's also way too low thanks to the ghetto spring cut job (we cut 2 coils off the front springs and 1.25 coils off the rear springs).

Specs-wise, it's a mostly stock 1996 Mustang GT convertible with a 5-speed manual. Neither the speedometer nor odometer work, so it's been frozen at 182k miles for a while. Reportedly it's near 200k according to the previous owner. The engine still runs perfectly for the most part, aside from a bad idle valve (currently disconnected). The AC works brilliantly since my friend and I filled it up with a cheap Autozone kit. The radio also works since we fixed the previous owner's horribly botched wiring job. The engine doesn't burn any oil and it doesn't appear to be leaking any fluids. The spark plugs, ignition coils, and alternator are all pretty new as well. The tires are in decent shape too, with a good amount of tread left. Not much grip in the rear though since the tires are only 245's.

Now my plan is to clean it up, fix whatever issues it has left, and then add power. My plan is to change the diff gears, install PI heads + intake, install some kind of performance cams, port the PI heads, and eventually install a stroker kit to get the 4.6L to 5.0L. I know I could always swap in another engine or supercharge for easy power, but I'm trying to keep this build as cheap as possible, continuing the cheap theme that my friend and I started with. I'm a relatively skilled mechanic with an extensive background in BMWs (I have a 2000 540i Touring and a 2003 X5 4.6), so I'm no stranger to rebuilding engines, having rebuilt 8 BMW V8's at this point. I have a garage full of tools, plenty of free time, and tons of motivation. Everything I've done on the Mustang so far has been insanely easy, so I don't think I'll have any trouble fixing it up.
 
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Welcome to Mustangs. Be warned owning and modding these cars is addictive. Glad to hear you're already having fun with it. The aftermarket is soooo extensive for these cars. If you can think it, there is a good chance someones producing it.

Car looks good but missing one thing that stands out to me. Find yourself a set of side skirts, to complete your ground effects and you'll look complete. Having the front pieces without the long pieces under the door to the rear wheel, is flaring my OCD. Hahaha

Have fun. Good luck, we'll help when we can.
 
Welcome to Mustangs. Be warned owning and modding these cars is addictive. Glad to hear you're already having fun with it. The aftermarket is soooo extensive for these cars. If you can think it, there is a good chance someones producing it.

Car looks good but missing one thing that stands out to me. Find yourself a set of side skirts, to complete your ground effects and you'll look complete. Having the front pieces without the long pieces under the door to the rear wheel, is flaring my OCD. Hahaha

Have fun. Good luck, we'll help when we can.

Thanks for the welcome!

The mod-ability of these Mustangs is what appeals to me— the BMW's that I have are very limited in terms of mods, like it would cost me like $6000 to add any significant amount of horsepower to my 2000 540i, because there are no real bolt-on mods and only one company that makes superchargers for it. Heck, most headers for the 540i are in the $2000+ range, with minimal gains to be had. The aftermarket is rather small for most BMWs, because most BMW owners don't do much other than basic cosmetic mods.

I actually have the side skirts, they just got pulled off when my friend was drifting it around in the desert— he basically pulled a Cars & Coffee and ran it off the road. Thankfully there were no bystanders.

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I'll reattach the side skirts after I get the rest of the car cleaned up, there's so much dust in every nook and cranny.
 
Cheap would be to supercharge what you have and stay out of the engine. By the time you buy the intake, cams and head work you will be around the price for a used supercharger.

Yeah but supercharging presents its own issues. Also, the engine work would be super cheap since I'd do it all myself. My plan is to find PI heads and a PI intake for cheap at a junkyard— it's like $50 a head in the junkyards near me. Porting the heads shouldn't be hard, all I need is a drill and some time— a friend of mine just did his BMW heads and they came out great. Cams are a little pricey for sure, but all in it shouldn't cost me more than $1000 to get a decent boost in power. Meanwhile even a used supercharger is at least $3000, unless they go for less than that.
 
OK...doing your own work makes it worthwhile. I did my cams in my 96. Bought some used Comp 262's. With the PI intake and cams I bumped about 40-45 HP on a conservative tune. Went from a high 14 second car to mid 13's. Be sure to degree the cams when you install or you will be replacing valves or pistons as well.
 
OK...doing your own work makes it worthwhile. I did my cams in my 96. Bought some used Comp 262's. With the PI intake and cams I bumped about 40-45 HP on a conservative tune. Went from a high 14 second car to mid 13's. Be sure to degree the cams when you install or you will be replacing valves or pistons as well.

Hm, so with the PI intake, PI heads, and cams I should be getting a bit more than that, since you just had an intake and cams? Is it worthwhile to get a bigger throttle body? There's a rad BBK 78mm throttle body + intake in one solid piece for under $300.

Also, what rear gears do you guys recommend? I definitely want to make this old girl a little snappier but I don't want it to be unreasonable to drive on the streets. I've been looking at 3.73 and 4.10, what do you guys think?

I'm also planning on installing a short shifter to tighten up the shifting a bit— the stock shifter has quite a bit of play and isn't as precise as I'd like, especially compared to the BMW 6-speeds that I've been driving for the past few years. I've been looking at this Steed Tri-Ax that seems pretty well-rated: https://lmr.com/item/ST-5557351K/83-04-Mustang-Steeda-Tri-Ax-Shifter-With-Free-Bullitt-Shift-Knob

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to figure everything out before I start blindly throwing money in every direction, haha
 
Yes to pi heads swap at the same time.

3.73 for a daily driver and 4.10 if you want more.

The steeda triax is a great piece.

Gotcha. I was already erring on the side of 3.73 because 4.10 seemed a bit extreme for a street car.

Also, does getting a 91-optimized tune yield any more power from these engines? (we don't have 93 in Arizona). I'm used to putting in 91 with all of my BMWs so I don't mind extra fuel costs if I can unlock some power with that.

I also heard that subframe reinforcement bars are a good idea for these cars as they're rather flimsy from the factory. I've definitely noticed that the door panel gaps change when I put the Mustang up on jack stands. Being a convertible, I have even more body flex than the coupe.

So now that I've gotten the first stage of performance mods figured out, I'm gonna tackle this car's problems while I acquire all of those go-fast bits.

Right now the speedometer still doesn't work. I already replaced the speed sensor on the transmission but that didn't solve the issue. The odometer doesn't work either, not sure if that's an additional issue with the gears or because of whatever is causing the speedometer to not work.

I also need to adjust the top because it sags on the driver's side due to not quite closing fully. I've done a bit of reading and it seems like there are some adjustment points on the top so I'll tackle that this weekend.

I also bought a new IAC because my current one seems to be acting up. When it's plugged in it idles super high and doesn't rev properly. I've had it unplugged for the time being which works fine with the AC off but leads to occasional stalling when the AC is on, so I'll replace it tonight and see if that fixes the issue.

The driver's seat also has a bit of the gangster lean going on— the seat back doesn't want to go up fully so I'm left sitting in a pretty awkward way. I've done a bit of reading and it seems like that's caused by some spot welds breaking loose on the seat frame, so perhaps I'll take a look at that this weekend. I have a welder so I'll try fixing it if possible.
 
So the other day I replaced the IAC— $40 and like 5 minutes to swap it out. That seems to have fixed the idling issue, hooray.

While getting gas later that night, I heard a squeaking from my rear left wheel. Initially I thought it was just a bad wheel bearing or a stuck caliper, but then while filling up at the pump I noticed that the rear left wheel was sitting really crooked. Imagine my surprise when I found that the wheel was completely loose! I could move it around easily with my hands. Since this car doesn't have a jack or any tools in it (did those originally come with the car?), I had no choice but to carefully limp it home. Thankfully the gas station was less than a mile away from my house so I made it home with no mishaps.

As soon as I pulled into the driveway, I removed the lug cover on the wheel and a broken lug + piece of wheel stud fell right out, yikes!

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This was the stud from the spacer, so I removed the spacer and found this:

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All of the nuts were extremely loose, which was quite odd considering that I had torqued everything at least a few times when originally installing it.

After a bit of investigation I deduced that it was because the spacers were cheap pieces of crap. My friend bought them on eBay for $20, so in retrospect I'm not surprised that this happened. The spacers were not hubcentric since they were a generic fitment, and that probably led to vibrations that loosened the wheel nuts. It's crazy to think that I drove it from LA to Phoenix like this! I'm so thankful that nothing bad happened because of this.

I guess I'll buy some brand-name, hubcentric spacers from a reputable seller to replace these sketchy ones. I also need to replace that wheel stud, which looks fairly easy based on what I've read. I picked up a few studs from Autozone last night, so I'll be fixing that this weekend.
 
I have 4.10's on my car now and on my previous 96. Daily drivers. Don't fear the gear. Throttle body and plenum are parts to the puzzle. With the intake and cam upgrades they will increase power.
 
I have had FRPP 3.73's now for eight years in my car and I think that FRPP 3.73's are the perfect balance for Street/Strip/Daily Driver. I really enjoy the FRPP 3.73's the most over the stock 3.27's. I have tried a lot of other gear ratios over the years but to each his own.