Dash Speaker Replacement

[LaserSVT]

When I worked for a car stereo store, the boston rep came in telling me that there was NO way I could blow up one of his pro subs. To prove his point, he stood in the cone. enter a xtant 1001dx and a bass mechanic cd. Minutes later, he was on the way back to his car with a burned up sub.
I always liked and sold the eclipse aluminums in as small a box as we could make them. Those bad boys POUND and are clean and tight. Never got to try the titaniums though. I quit before they came out.

Oh yeah! I miss those subs. I had a pair of 12s and they were phenominal but I did not have enough to power them. Was using a Soundstream 500 back when Soundstream was the ****! I sold them and got the Titaniums and another Refrence 500 and man.... it was unbearable in my 300z. It sounded fantastic and was rediculously loud. What? Did you say something?

i have been wanting to get a JL W7 for a while now, but i dont have the room under my seats in the f150, so i put 2 of my old skool pioneer premiers in there and it pounds, but not like a w7

I have installed allot of 12W7s and I can tell you this. In a sealed encloser a Boston G5 will kick their ass! Also, the W6's sound better.
We put a single 13" W7 in a slot loaded box powered off a Rockford Fosgate Power T1000 that was puting out 1890 watts continuous and it was just rediculous. My buddy being the bass head he is took out the box and we out in an identical size box with a Rockford T2 12 and I was amazed how much harder the Rockford hit! Thing was by far the loudest single sub I ever heard! 152 db and it was a T-top with no Dynamat in it!
We were cruising in it one night and he used to like this bass mechanic disc that made the rear window wiper bounce. Well it bounced so hard it broke its gears and almost broke off the car as it hung off the side of the car.

 

[S&B]

ohh so whats this kicker? i want to get a nice sub for the t top that blows t/a i just hate bandpass setups sounds so lose, I like it tight and hard

 

[tim281]

Those are some serious subs you guys are talking about. I was looking at a ported powerwedge JL audio box that has one 8"W3v3-4 sub. I just want depth I can hear with my music and this will fit nicely between my rear shock tower brace and the rear seat backs which will still give me most of my trunk. If I powered this will 250 W RMS, will this give me enough noticeable bass?

 

[tim281]

ohh so whats this kicker? i want to get a nice sub for the t top that blows t/a i just hate bandpass setups sounds so lose, I like it tight and hard

Thats what she said

 

[S&B]

Those are some serious subs you guys are talking about. I was looking at a ported powerwedge JL audio box that has one 8"W3v3-4 sub. I just want depth I can hear with my music and this will fit nicely between my rear shock tower brace and the rear seat backs which will still give me most of my trunk. If I powered this will 250 W RMS, will this give me enough noticeable bass?

i had one of these as my first sub setups, it was a W1 but it was enough bass so you can enjoy the music but not so much that people look at you funny when you pull up next to them

 

[LaserSVT]

ohh so whats this kicker? i want to get a nice sub for the t top that blows t/a i just hate bandpass setups sounds so lose, I like it tight and hard

You so

I am telling ya, if you want hard tight loud deep bass then get a G5 10" and put it in a .5 sealed box. Thats what I have right now and am sending it 300 watts RMS. Its WAY louder and better sounding then my 10W6 was with the same box and 600 watts RMS. I scored mine for $80 brand new on teh ebay but usually they are $150ish on there but the sub retails for $400
Now if you can give up a little more room then one of these will blow you away! Cross the output of a T2 12" and the sound quality of an Infinity Beta
View attachment 254850

Those are some serious subs you guys are talking about. I was looking at a ported powerwedge JL audio box that has one 8"W3v3-4 sub. I just want depth I can hear with my music and this will fit nicely between my rear shock tower brace and the rear seat backs which will still give me most of my trunk. If I powered this will 250 W RMS, will this give me enough noticeable bass?

The 8w3 is an excellent sub with a very smooth output. A 10" would be better but if you are trying to wedge it between the seat and brace then you are limited to the 8" What amp will you drive it with?

 

[strtrcr50]

Those are some serious subs you guys are talking about. I was looking at a ported powerwedge JL audio box that has one 8"W3v3-4 sub. I just want depth I can hear with my music and this will fit nicely between my rear shock tower brace and the rear seat backs which will still give me most of my trunk. If I powered this will 250 W RMS, will this give me enough noticeable bass?

If you aren't worried about a flat, you could always glass your spare tire well. Easily fit 2 12's that way. AND still have a trunk.

 

[strtrcr50]

What amp will you drive it with?

The true question.....

 

[tim281]

Amp..... I hadn't got that far yet, got any suggestions. I will check out those Boston subs on eBay. I could probably do fine with the extra space. So the sealed boxes with hit harder with faster response?

 

[LaserSVT]

Amp..... I hadn't got that far yet, got any suggestions. I will check out those Boston subs on eBay. I could probably do fine with the extra space. So the sealed boxes with hit harder with faster response?

Yes, the sealed will hit harder and have a faster attak and decay. A ported box will give you more growl around 45hz but you sacrafice extension and response.

If you go with the Boston then I would get a Rockford mono block if funds are tight. If you go with the JL then I would get a Rockford two channel and bridge it.
If you have the extra coin then I would suggest a JL Audio amp.

This is the Rockford for the JL sub:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...082471QQptZCarQ5fAmplifiersQQsalenotsupported

This is the one for the Boston sub:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...788511QQptZCarQ5fAmplifiersQQsalenotsupported

And an alternative that would make that sub sound unbelievable:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-fosgat...489372QQptZCarQ5fAmplifiersQQsalenotsupported

 

[LaserSVT]

Oh yeah, here is the cheapest I could find the dual voice coil version for.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-BOSTON-ACOU...rQ5fSubwoofersQ5fEnclosuresQQsalenotsupported

 

[strtrcr50]

If you want to save some money, here's the amp you want.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PRECISION-POWER...66:2|39:1|72:1234|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
View attachment 254814

 

[LaserSVT]

If you want to save some money, here's the amp you want.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PRECISION-POWER...66:2|39:1|72:1234|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
View attachment 254812

Old Art series

Although its an old ass amp and who knows if it has worn caps. My Xtant is 16 years old but just had all 32 caps replaced as well as its cooling system so I knew it was going to work just like new.
For the same price as the PP Art amp you can get a new T500 that will put out more and have a remote bass control.

 

[S&B]

yeah but you cant beat the way that one looks, its so nice ,

i love old school amps, there like haircuts you can tell what year they were made just by loooking

 

[strtrcr50]

Old Art series

Although its an old ass amp and who knows if it has worn caps. My Xtant is 16 years old but just had all 32 caps replaced as well as its cooling system so I knew it was going to work just like new.
For the same price as the PP Art amp you can get a new T500 that will put out more and have a remote bass control.

Drop the impedance and lets see a newer amp keep up with the older ones. I had an older xtant 1001d running somewhere between 1/4 and 1/16 of an ohm(seeing if I could blow it up on the board) and it didn't shut down. Just had the store manager come over to my area freaking out because of the noise and vibrations.. For my money, I'd get the PPI A600 over any new Rockford and if the PPI needed to be rebuilt, so be it.

 

[LaserSVT]

Drop the impedance and lets see a newer amp keep up with the older ones. I had an older xtant 1001d running somewhere between 1/4 and 1/16 of an ohm(seeing if I could blow it up on the board) and it didn't shut down. Just had the store manager come over to my area freaking out because of the noise and vibrations.. For my money, I'd get the PPI A600 over any new Rockford and if the PPI needed to be rebuilt, so be it.

I would have no problem running a fan cooled Rockford T series amp against that one and beat it. Yeah, for themost part the old PPIs beat the majority of the amps out for power and clarity. That amp would destroy a Punch series amp but the newer air cooled Power series class D monoblocks from Rockford are very very impressive. My buddies is running at 1/2 ohm and he cranks the hell out of it for super long periods. Enough where he melted the carpet under the amp but it never went into thermal off mode and was solid as hell!

Now that being said, If I had the cash the amp I want most is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/MCINTOSH-6chann...891101QQptZCarQ5fAmplifiersQQsalenotsupported

Actually I want its big brother the 100x4 & 300x2 beast but I cant find a picture of one and the last time one was for sale it went for $2400

 

[WhiteSSP]

I've learned a ton from this thread lol.

I just ordered this for my Fox to try and upgrade the stock speakers/****ty JVC headunit sound. I'm gonna order a headunit soon.

Infinity Kappa 32.7cf (3.5" dash speakers)
Infinity Kappa 62.9is (6.5" door speakers)

I noticed on the door speakers, they look like they have an RCA jack connection. What will I need to do to hook those up to the JVC unit? I'm a super noob when it comes to audio systems, I just want something that sounds pretty good, and I'll be getting a sub later in a custom box when I delete the rear seat (nothing fancy, but It'll be a fun project).

 

[LaserSVT]

I've learned a ton from this thread lol.

I just ordered this for my Fox to try and upgrade the stock speakers/****ty JVC headunit sound. I'm gonna order a headunit soon.

Infinity Kappa 32.7cf (3.5" dash speakers)
Infinity Kappa 62.9is (6.5" door speakers)

I noticed on the door speakers, they look like they have an RCA jack connection. What will I need to do to hook those up to the JVC unit? I'm a super noob when it comes to audio systems, I just want something that sounds pretty good, and I'll be getting a sub later in a custom box when I delete the rear seat (nothing fancy, but It'll be a fun project).

Speakers do not have a RCA conection on them. Sounds like they have banana terminals. Should un screw and you will see a hole to run the wire throughand then tighten them back down.

 

[bgoins]

i highly recommend Crutchfield as a retailer for all car audio gear. they have an excellent website (Crutchfield: LCD TV, Car Audio, Home Theater, Speakers, Plasma TV) and their customer service is second-to-none.

 

[WhiteSSP]

Awesome, thanks alot. I was looking online trying to figure out how the hell I was gonna get that working lol.

And I've also had great experience with onlinecarstereo.com. Ordered a headunit from them for my old jeep before I sold it, and it came very quickly, and they have AWESOME prices.