Dead Batt or Bad Wires?

Hi guys,

Thank God this is not finals week for me at school (next week is so I have to fix this by then). I've gone through votech and worked at a few shops for this, and I should know what I'm talking about here, but it's been a while since I've been into any of it and my mind isn't fresh in electrical right now.

The mustang (95 5.0) wouldn't start last night, so we jumped it and took it on a 20 minute or so drive figuring that would keep the battery fresh enough to start in another 9 hours when I woke up. It wouldn't start this morning. Just a 'click' and that's all. Put the DVOM on the terminals, registering 12.40v which is damn good considering how long I had the doors open, hood up (light), and how many times I tried to crank it. Batt was shipped in Nov of 06, and I think it's an interstate. When I hold on the starter, the batt gauge in the cluster drops only to the bottom half of the N in NORMAL. When not cranking, it's hanging out around O, which is normal for that car. I have heard this car crank somewhat slow before, so I'm not sure what's going on here.

I even used the acc belt to manually turn the motor to get it where it won't have to push compression for the first stroke in hopes of making the starter work. Didn't help one bit...

So here's my question. Do mustangs typically have problems with the wires going to the starter corroding? The reason I ask is that this battery is the least-maintenance free battery I've ever had. EVERY time I pop the hood, which is typically at MINIMAL once a week, there's new corrosion build up on the terminals. Natrually, I clean it with whatever I have (Coke, Wire brush & baking soda water, etc...), and go on my merry way. I've even coated the terminals in WD40.

Can the battery maintain a sufficient voltage and simply lack the amperage to push the starter over? The plates on the inside of the batt show very early stages of sulfation and each cell took about 1/4 cup of distilled water to top it up.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Your alt could also be draining the battery if one diodes failed in the rectifier.
Your alt should be putting out about 14.5 vdc running.
If your terminals are corroded then you could definately loosing the amperage needed to start the car. have you looked for corrosion inside the insulation on the battery cables.
Also you might need to look into some of those felt pads used to prevent corrosion on the terminals. as you know the coke and baking soda are only cleaner and wd-40 isn't good for much either
 
First thing to do is to get the battery tested. Autoparts store will do that for free, and their machines are pretty accurate. I'm not saying it's definately the battery, but that's the easiest thing to test.

Kurt
 
Actually I just got ahold of my landlord and future step father-inlaw and he has a buddy that has a shop. I'm stranded out here (I live around a bunch of farm land) so he's going to come out with a battery tester for the guy's shop and give me a jump.

I forgot to mention the only part of this whole ordeal that really pissed me off. I have ONE neighbor within yelling distance, right across the street from me. He never waves if you wave, but he does keep his house and property immaculate. He's kind of weird, lives alone, I'd say mid to late 30s, pretty heavyset with a longggg chin patch with with a pony tail in it. Not that I judge by looks, because I have a LOT of friends that don't look like an every day guy but are the best of friends to me. The guy was in his garage working on his late 60-ish mustang he bought right after I got mine (jealousy? still haven't heard it run) for the 30-40 minutes I was trying to get my car started this morning. I saw him looking over once or twice, then he came out to get his mail and went right back in the garage with no offer for help. That really pissed me off, so I used that aggression to try to finish moving the car. Turns out, a 250lb 6'0 guy can't move an SN95 on a gravel driveway without slipping and getting a sharp pain in his back lol.
 
The battery can still show correct voltage and be bad. Around 12.5 volts with engine off, 14.5 volts engine running is typical. But voltage is only half the battle.

Whats the voltage at the terminals once you get it jumped? If that is around 14.5, then you can rule out the alternator.

My bet would be on a bad battery.

Adam
 
dont be pissed at your neighbor... personally i dont like working on strangers cars anymore... u find something wrong they blame you for it... its just how things are anymore... i still offer a helping hand but im shy about who gets it.
 
It's the starter. Replaced the terminals on the batt because they fell of in my hand after un-taping them, figured that would fix. Nope. Got under the car and had landlord crank it to see which side the starter was on and saw a spark fall. Banged on it with a hammer, voila.

Are these like the Chrysler starters where typically a $5 part fixes it or should I trust Autozone or Advanced Auto's rebuilds?
 
You could have left your DMM across the battery and watched it while cranking. If below ~ 10V, it will generally not turn over.

You asked about having voltage but not amperage. The answer is yes, you can have that. 12.4V is partially discharged anyhow.

A bad cable connection (notably a ground) can give intermittant no-crank situations (if your battery ends up being ok).
 
We have PMGR's stock, and I'd want to get a decent OEM or aftermarket unit but that's JMHO.

Also, if you have or will get LT's, stay with better quality units.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160385355701

That seems like too good of a deal to be true, Autozone wanted 99 bux for one of their duracrap reman units. Would that work for my application? I don't mind bumping it with the hammer a few times this week if thats all I have to do to get that starter.

EDIT: No LTs for the moment, but can see them happening within the next year or so.
 
Did you get that one? I've not used that brand before......

If you didn't get that one and feel like it, PM me for a seller with good prices that I've had good luck with......
 
A bad starter is a good opportunity to upgrade to a gear reduction starter. They are expensive, but very helpful in the future. They also last longer too.

Kurt
 
Well the positive lead on the starter was actually loose and welded itself to the nut on the post. I replaced the starter anyway and I'm glad I did, this one is MUCH quieter and just seems to be a much better starter. Seems like it takes no effort at all to crank the motor now. I'll keep the old one to possibly learn how to rebuild and will be a future replacement if ever needed.

Couldn't get it started with the hammer to get it in the garage so I ended up doing this on back in my muddy gravel driveway in 28* weather. Took 20 minutes to get old starter out with numb fingers, took a ten minute break to regain feeling and a sandwich, then took another ten minutes to re-install new starter.